VintageRice Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 The last couple drives with my 510 (L18) the charge light has been on and the battery is drained when I get back. I tapped on the voltage regulator case just thinking sometimes when things start to go out they get worn or corrded or whatever. Well now when I hook the battery charger up, the Volt Reg box starts buzzing/vibrating. Tapping it makes it go away for a second, tap it again and it starts again. I'm not hooking the chager back up untill someone chimes in on this. Is the Volt Regulator toast? Can I get a new one? Or should I just upgrade to a new alternator? If so do I still need the Voltage regulator if the new Alt is Internally regulated? I'd like to hear that I can get a new Volt Reg for cheap, replace it, and be on my merry way. Sorry for the multitude of questions but I wanna get my car going and not start a fire. Two very important goals. :) Thanks Quote Link to comment
Jayden71 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 My voltage reg seems to have gone out on the trip home from Canby. It is like clicking on and off and lights and such are really bright/fast. Alt is working though. If you put a IR alt on you would not need external volt reg. A replacement reg on Rockauto is like 30 bucks. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Is the Volt Regulator toast? Sounds like it. Can I get a new one? Or should I just upgrade to a new alternator? Yes, but it's cheaper to upgrade. A new voltage regulator is over $75 while a rebuilt alternator direct bolt-in with internal regulator is $70. Or if you can find a good used regulator, then do it, throw it on and keep driving. Mine is 40 years old last month and still working. do I still need the Voltage regulator if the new Alt is Internally regulated?. No, you will disconnect the old regulator when fitting an internally-regulated alternator. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Any car alt '78 and up will be internally regulated so you can get rid of that 'buzz box'. You will need to cut and splice two pairs of wires to by pass the old external one and have the red charge light work. This is not that hard. You can just cut the wires off the old external regulator and solter the two pairs together right there. '78-'79 200sx, '81-'83 2nd gen 200sx, '78 and up 810/Maxima, 280z and zx and '81 and up 720s should have a minimum 50/60 amp output. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 1978 to 1980 620 & 720 have a 35A internal alt that's a direct replacement for the 510 35A alternator. Just unplug your existing regulator and jump the two wires. Or move to the 50A/60A unit which is bigger around, will need at least a larger fan belt. I think you need to modify the bracket too. Depends on what your 510 has now. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Fantastic info Guys, thanks so much! How can I tell what ALT I have now? I can take a picture if that will help ID it. What ALT can I use that will also work when I go to do my KA24e Swap. Is there a good choice that will work well with the L-series and also work for the KA. No need to buy two I guess. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Get a picture of the back side of the alternator. If you can find any printed sticker or stamped numbers, include those as well. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 What??????? If you got a external volt reg you have a regular alternator. Jeff(ichouse) said they had a stack of volt regs in abox at franks place. Everett. The carquest brand or Well brand make a solid Stae volt reg than the meechanical type. they last longer. How comeyou dont run a volt meter or a cheap in cig light volt meter. They work and you can catch this before this happens. example It works!!!!!!!!dont drain the battery either http://www.equus.com/Product/Detail/9D1F54B4-F1D3-4C67-827E-91FE755F3483 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Hainz, does he have a 35A or 50A alternator? Can you tell without looking? They are in physically bigger cases and use different mounting brackets. Both use external regulator. Yes if you can find a good used regulator just use that, but I wouldn't buy a cheap brand. Seen too many go bad even when brand new. Internal regulated alternator is $12.50 from pick-n-pull or $53 remanufactured. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 33 and 35 amp up to and maybe after '72. 50/60 amp available in '72 and standard on all Canadian models, optional on US? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 ggzilla most L18s I seen use the bigger bolts in the block thus the bigger 50amper. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Went to Everett today and got a Air Cleaner from Frank, asked about Regulators and he only had a new one, and was busy helping somone else with a Timing cover. I think I'll just get the newer, bigger ALT and that way the problematic VR is gone for good. Should I get a KA ALT and make it work on the L-series for now, that way I can use it in the future?? Or?? Heres the pics. As far as I can tell the tag has no numbers. Weird. The third pic is from under the car. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 That looks exactly like the 35A unit. But maybe the 50A units look the same too. The tag says "Albany" but I can't read what else. The KA alt usually has a serpentine belt, so is different from an L-series alternator. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 going by the bolt size looks like a 35amper. not positive So you get the volt reg?there are soem KA alternator that use the regular belt. also you need to make a adapter to use the KA as it doesnt use the T connector. But datzenmike has photos of how to make a adapter and not cut the stock wires in case you want to go back. personally this should be EZ. If you cant do this DONT do the KA swap. Hate to see another 510 on the side of the house Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 That looks exactly like the 35A unit. But maybe the 50A units look the same too. The tag says "Albany" but I can't read what else. The KA alt usually has a serpentine belt, so is different from an L-series alternator. Car has serpentine belt but the V will swap onto it if you use a spacer to keep it from rubbing the case. Truck KA (at least the KA-E) has a V belt. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I'm sure it is "EZ". :). But if I do research first I can do it once instead of twice. Saves trips to napa assell. Thanks guys!! Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I knew I saw this somewhere before. Yep, Doin this. Truck Ka24e Alt swap. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/69-90-amp-bolt-in-alternator-on-an-l-series-motor/ Will post pics and results if anyone cares when done. Schweet. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Update. It's done and working!! Went to NAPA, the truck KA24E ALt for a 1994 pickup was 60A and $40 more than the 1990 240sx ALT and IT was 80 amp. No brainer went with the 240sx alt. One problem, it has the Serpentine belt. Well this actually works for me casue I'll be using the serentine on my KA swap when I do it. So, I went to pick-n-pull today in Arlington, found a 80's chevy pickup and yanked the pulley off the ALT. Same backspacing as the 240sx alt pully only a v-belt, perfect. All the nissan pulleys I found were the wrong backspacing and two piece like the stock 510 pulley. Also while I was there I found a Nissan pickup(there was a bunch there) and cut the factory 2 prong connector off. Now I have the correct watertight connector for my new Alternator. The once I had the pulley on, the ALT itself bolted straight up with no issues, only had to find a slightly longer lower front bolt since that part of the ALT is a littler thicker than the 510 hitachi. The belt I used was only a half inch longer than the stock 510 belt. (although my car is a L18 swap, not sure how that changes things) so whatever that is. I had it laying around from a old GM car. ALT was then Mounted and belted. DONE. Next was the wiring. It was kinda hard (thats what she said) to find a straight answer with all the different setups on ratsun, but this diagram worked the best. Diagram Also found this LINK very helpfull. It was really quite easy. Just cut the wires off AT the external regulator(retaining the facory harness intact) and jumpered the wires showed in the diagram using butt splices and shrink tube. Then I hooked up the 4 wires to the ALT. Ground to the Ground on the ALT, Big white power lead to the big "battery" Lug on the back. Then replace the olt "T" connector with the new "OVAL" nissan connector. The two wires that went to the old "T" connector and the Nissan oval plug were slightly different colors. But basicly two will have black stripes, those are for the dash light. Hook those together. Then hook the two other sold color wires(yellow and white I believe) together. DONE. I did eliminate that factory splice on the battery lead everyone talks about. It was garbage, the wires themselves were brittle and cracking. All replaced with 10 guage stranded wire with butt connectors and heat shrink tubing.(got the wire from pick-n-pull too, someones cheap amp kit lol) FREEBIE! ;) When all said and done it was charging at 14.2 volts at the battery when idleing. I'm happy. Pics OLD NEW Pulleys Nissan Plug VOLT REG BYPASS NEW SPLICE OLD SPLICE NICE CHARGE WITH RAD WRENCH BATTERY TIE DOWN I MADE 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Excellent write-up, you make it sound straightforward. Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Great write up. I've got an Alt i think came off a 200sx. My VR went bad along with my choke relay and i've been trying to decide the easiest way to get things right. this will help. I think there has been plenty of good write ups on alternator upgrades that with the search feature almost anyone that can change spark plugs should be able to go to an alternator upgrade. Reason why i joined. I sure didn't join because all the other members were close.....I live in Alabama, long way from most of you guys. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Alabama, also known as "Datsun Country" :P Oh wait that is tennessee... Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 My voltage reg seems to have gone out on the trip home from Canby. It is like clicking on and off and lights and such are really bright/fast. Alt is working though. If you put a IR alt on you would not need external volt reg. A replacement reg on Rockauto is like 30 bucks. Rock Auto~ pushaw! I've got a factory NIB (including goofy Japanese lingo), I picked up @ Canby for insurance on the ride home, Plugged it in for 10 seconds to confirms prior repairs. Payed $40, sell for $40 w/ FREE SHIPPING! PM me if you're interested... Scott Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 Excellent write-up. Thinking this should be moved to How To or at least pinned here. Thinking the How To should be sub-categoried, but that's another topic for another day.... Ha! Nice battery strap. Ohhhhhhhh.....Fluke=woodie Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Thanks! Thats the only way an american wrench is put to use in my shop. :P Quote Link to comment
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