messing up my ignition

[Uncle Laulau]

It took me a couple of months to do it. I tried and tried and I finally did it today. I broke my little trucky poo. I knew it would be any day now, and sure enough I done her in today. I had my neighbors came over, they scratched there heads and offered advise, all for not.

It all started when I found this alternator, coil, and resister in a smaller Datsun pu. I first put in the new coil with the old alternator and resister. I know not to smart, that's how I roll. The old coil had a crack in the housing, and that was all the justification I needed to make the swap. Soon after I think I burned my points, shocker. The engine would start to miss a bit, and seemed to loose a bit of power. So today I through in the matching alternator. Man I tell you, she ran super strong and smooth...until I stepped on the gas. The old girl would just about stall out, then she started to back fire. I felt like I was so close.

I decided to make on last attempt by putting in the matching resister. Now the hole ignition system was all from the same truck I found at the yard. The wiring was a bit of a problem, still don't know if I got it correct. There are so many random free wires in the truck I got confused. drrrrrr.

old one below new above

old one

old one

After a long day of mumbling sneezing (allergies) I put back in the old alternator and resister thingy, and nothing can't get it ta start. I thought I had the wires jumbled up so I checked and swapped em around for like an hour. My dang book shows the alternator turned upside-down compared to mine. This Is super confusing to me. I don't know if the year of the engine makes a difference or what. I'll keep looking on this site and the web for direction on my goof. If any one would like to lend a few words of wisdom after they stop laughing, I would sure be appreciative. Hope every body has a good weekend.

[521chowda]

Congrats on breaking it dude! Hope things work out well...

[banzai510(hainz)]

what does a alternator have to do with a distributor?

 

 

I knew this truck was going to be short lived.

 

this is a SIMPLE fix. You even ck to see if the rotor pointed in the the correct position say from the last distributor? sometimes when you put another dizzy in the rotor will be pointed 180 off or the dizzy housing 180 off. depending on the prevois mount installed.

 

Put motor to TDC and then see when the rotor points too at TDC ,thats where #1 plug wire goes then 1 3 4 2 Couter clock wise fire order. watch vid chapter 5 link below. This vid is better than your neihboors and friends!

 

If this resistor and coil came from another point distributor it should work.

Your photo shows you have the blk/wht wire to the ballast resisitor. that is CORRECT. But what are the other wires on it?Like the blu/red?? what is that for? get rid of it.Looks like something else hooked up to it but cant tell .I only have the blk/wht to my ballast resisitor on my 521.

the other side of the ballast resisitor is going to the coil. This is also CORRECT.

 

Now to make this MORON proof just make a BLK wire. that goes from the distributor to the minus side of the coil. get rid of the other wires that were on the minus side of the coil.Just put them off to the side

 

 

set your point gap to about .020 and it should start. if its timed correctly.

Can i assume the capacitor on the side of the distributor has a wire on it??? also very importnat.

 

watch part 5 of this maybe 100times.

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8EF51386855F2B58

 

and watch how to TDC motor also .

 

If that fails

sell truck for 300$

 

That looks like a single point distributor. You could put a Pertronix Conversion in there

[ggzilla]

Could be that your points need replacing. That can cause all these symptoms. They are supposed to be replace every 12 months/12,000 miles. Along with the condensor.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Could be that your points need replacing. That can cause all these symptoms. They are supposed to be replace every 12 months/12,000 miles. Along with the condensor.

 

I thought of that after the fact ASSUMING one would ck it

[oldskoolvws]

Now this is Rat...and not exactly smart.

 

[Uncle Laulau]

Everyone has been so helpful! Now that finals are over I can concentrate on the tips I'm getting. I was working on the truck during study breaks. You can only guess how well I did on my finals if the truck was this crazy. The following are the newest pictures. One 1979 620 ei distributor, one new resister, one new 1979 620 replacement coil. New spark plug wires cap and rotor. At this point as per the pictures it almost starts, Sputters and dies, I adjusted timing to see if I could get er to idle and no dice.

 

On a side note I have found the rotor isn't in the same spot every time I think I'm setting the engine to tdc. Whats up with that. Is tdc when the notch of the pulley hits the zero on gauge on the block? Any hew the pictures.

Im working on things right now, so this can be a cibber truck fix, my very first one weeeeeee. Thanks everyone!

[ggzilla]

When the crank pointer is at 0, the distributor rotor should point to #1 on the cap -- or to #4. This is because it's a four-stroke engine and the crank turns 2 times for every 1 turn of the camshaft.

That's normal.

 

1. turn the crank until the pointer is at 5 BTDC, not 0. It doesn't matter if it points to #1 or #4.

 

2. Then turn the distributor housing (a little bit) until the teeth line up perfectly. More perfectly than this:

 

3. Re-tighten the distributor bolt and you are done.

 

When you get it running good, remove the resistor and throw it away. It is only used with a points-distributor, and your photo shows a matchbox EI distributor.

[ggzilla]

This needs to be fixed -- maybe the cause of the problem.

* The EI matchbox is connected to the low-voltage side of the resistor, instead of the 12V side. That is the "NOT OK" part.

Best thing to do is eliminate the resistor, simplify the system, less parts = more reliable. Plus you'll get a stronger spark.

 

[Uncle Laulau]

When the crank pointer is at 0, the distributor rotor should point to #1 on the cap -- or to #4. This is because it's a four-stroke engine and the crank turns 2 times for every 1 turn of the camshaft.

That's normal.

 

1. turn the crank until the pointer is at 5 BTDC, not 0. It doesn't matter if it points to #1 or #4.

 

2. Then turn the distributor housing (a little bit) until the teeth line up perfectly. More perfectly than this:

 

3. Re-tighten the distributor bolt and you are done.

 

When you get it running good, remove the resistor and throw it away. It is only used with a points-distributor, and your photo shows a matchbox EI distributor.

 

This sounds very good. Please forgive my questions...It points at 1 or 4 so how do I know where to put one wire?

Turning crank to 5 btdc and turn my housing till the teeth line up...forgive me teeth? Is that the cap and rotor for number one?

If I don't need the ressister, how come my coils says on it.."to be used with resister" , and the 1979 620 came with one?

I'm car stupid forgive me. Im not trying to be a smart a** I just don't want to waist your time and it sounds like this might be it. Thanks

[Uncle Laulau]

This needs to be fixed -- maybe the cause of the problem.

* The EI matchbox is connected to the low-voltage side of the resistor, instead of the 12V side. That is the "NOT OK" part.

Best thing to do is eliminate the resistor, simplify the system, less parts = more reliable. Plus you'll get a stronger spark.

 

 

Wow that was awesome! You have mad computer skills! And car skills. I bet the ladies are all up on that. Posts are out of order now I think. That was a bad pic. I have two light blue wires one pos one neg. Trying to keep with the paint theme of the car jk. Ill get rid of the resister now.

[banzai510(hainz)]

GGzilla

Isnt that BIG BLK/WHT WIRE in the center of the photo the power ON wire. That needs to be hooked up. whats hooked up to the ballast going in is WRONG its the big blk/wht wire thats 12volts when Key ON position. if ou put the big blk/wht wire on the left side of the resisitor and take B of the matchbox and put to the left side of reisitor it will run.

 

BUT!!!!!!

going by this 2 photos youll only have 12 volts in START and when key goes back to ON ,the blk/wht wire is disconnected as shown!

 

 

So Lau Lau to make this Simple take the BIG blk/wht wire(center of photo that is NOT hooked up) and put it on the right side of the ballast resisitor.

the wire going to the left ogf the ballast resisitor pull it off..Take the left lug and put it on the right side so thay are all together.So you dont have to cut that lug off that wire(they also make piggy back jumpers)

 

it should run now if the rotor is as GGZilla says 5 deg or Zero its close enought to get running by turing the dizzy with your hand.to get the timming correct(dialed in)

 

 

On a side note I dont know why the coil came with a ballast as 79Datsuns never had one in the first place. so hopefully its a EI coil and wont get HOT!!!!! so ck it after you run it. If it does get hot then yes put the ballast back in it.

 

As for TDC your got that right. also another way to be sure is open the oil cap and if the cam lobe is pointing in about the 10 oclock position your on Compression stroke. Then where the rotor points to make sure that wire goes to #1 plug .

[DanielC]

I am going to suggest you still need the ballast resistor if the coil says to use a ballast resistor.

The "Matchbox" really is just an electronic switch. It connect the coil to the battery, sometime before you want a spark, and at the exact time you want the spark, the switch opens. This is exactly what the points do, if they are in good shape.

 

With points, bypassing the resistor does give you a stronger spark, but the extra current also makes the points wear out quicker. The extra current may also over heat the ignition coil.

With a Matchbox distributer, no points to worry about, but the coil may still overheat.

Ideally, you will get a coil "matched" for the Matchbox distributer.

 

Because I am still working on my truck, and have not yet driven it yet, I am running more timing advance. I have it set around 12.5 degrees BTDC, by eyeballing the distributer. When I start to drive it, I probably will have to adjust the timing to a different place.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Lau Lau is Pork wrap up in a tealeaf right?

 

hey you are so close to getting this running. I just want to put my hands on this and re route these wires thru the computer.

 

first mistake is you have the wrong blk wht wire hooked up. Why i say that its small and I see the main 12volt blk/wht wire right in the center of the photo not hooked up!!!!!!!!!!You can ck this by turn key on and see if you get 12volts with the volt meter, Thats how you know!

 

Ok I will go by what you have.

ignor all the other posts when it comes to wireing but they would still have gotting the thing started.

 

sinc you got a coil that says to use the ballast we will go by this and what it says to use.

 

Take the Big blk/wht wire place it on left side of the resisitor REMOVE the small one. the right side resisitor what you have is OK with the blk/red. This is correct.

now take the B of the matchbox and hook it to the left side of the resisitor(remove from +side coil). These will all be shorted to the 12volts which will be the left side of the resisitor.So there will be 2 wires on the left side resisitor.blk/wht and the blu wire from the macthbox B connection,

C is - side coil

 

ck the cam lobe(10 oclock position) at zero TDC with timming tab rotor points correctly 1 3 4 2 counter clock wise fire order and this MOFO will start!!!!!!!!

 

 

I hope this new Matcbox dizzy had the timming plate and the mount that came with it?????

[ggzilla]

Yes, agree with Daniel and Hainz

 

Someone said "EI coil" which means it doesn't use a resistor. But if your coil says "use with resistor" the DON'T remove the resistor.

 

I thought 1979 620s came with EI and no ballast resistor -- except for Canada which used points.

 

 

Turning crank to 5 btdc and turn my housing till the teeth line up...forgive me teeth? Is that the cap and rotor for number one?

The teeth are inside the distributor, the four pointed star thingy under the rotor:

 

 

It points at 1 or 4 so how do I know where to put one wire?

This is called "timing" the distributor and is done when the distributor is fitted into the engine. When the crank is at TDC, it could be TDC for compression stroke or for exhaust stroke. There are various way to determine this but the easist to understand is remove the valve cover and look at at the cam gear mark. The position of the cam determines which of the two possibilities it is.

[Uncle Laulau]

It took me a couple of months to do it. I tried and tried and I finally did it today. I broke my little trucky poo. I knew it would be any day now, and sure enough I done her in today. I had my neighbors came over, they scratched there heads and offered advise, all for not.

It all started when I found this alternator, coil, and resister in a smaller Datsun pu. I first put in the new coil with the old alternator and resister. I know not to smart, that's how I roll. The old coil had a crack in the housing, and that was all the justification I needed to make the swap. Soon after I think I burned my points, shocker. The engine would start to miss a bit, and seemed to loose a bit of power. So today I through in the matching alternator. Man I tell you, she ran super strong and smooth...until I stepped on the gas. The old girl would just about stall out, then she started to back fire. I felt like I was so close.

I decided to make on last attempt by putting in the matching resister. Now the hole ignition system was all from the same truck I found at the yard. The wiring was a bit of a problem, still don't know if I got it correct. There are so many random free wires in the truck I got confused. drrrrrr.

old one below new above

old one

old one

DISTRIBUTOR ARRGGGG

After a long day of mumbling sneezing (allergies) I put back in the old alternator and resister thingy, and nothing can't get it ta start. I thought I had the wires jumbled up so I checked and swapped em around for like an hour. My dang book shows the alternator turned upside-down compared to mine. This Is super confusing to me. I don't know if the year of the engine makes a difference or what. I'll keep looking on this site and the web for direction on my goof. If any one would like to lend a few words of wisdom after they stop laughing, I would sure be appreciative. Hope every body has a good weekend.

[Uncle Laulau]

Lau Lau is Pork wrap up in a tealeaf right?

 

hey you are so close to getting this running. I just want to put my hands on this and re route these wires thru the computer.

 

first mistake is you have the wrong blk wht wire hooked up. Why i say that its small and I see the main 12volt blk/wht wire right in the center of the photo not hooked up!!!!!!!!!!You can ck this by turn key on and see if you get 12volts with the volt meter, Thats how you know!

 

Ok I will go by what you have.

ignor all the other posts when it comes to wireing but they would still have gotting the thing started.

 

sinc you got a coil that says to use the ballast we will go by this and what it says to use.

 

Take the Big blk/wht wire place it on left side of the resisitor REMOVE the small one. the right side resisitor what you have is OK with the blk/red. This is correct.

now take the B of the matchbox and hook it to the left side of the resisitor(remove from +side coil). These will all be shorted to the 12volts which will be the left side of the resisitor.So there will be 2 wires on the left side resisitor.blk/wht and the blu wire from the macthbox B connection,

C is - side coil

I thought my reading comprehension was above average...this forum makes me feel like I have peanut butter between my ears. Ok you have my permission to come through the interweb and out of my computer. I have box wine and pasta waiting. Wow that sounded weird. Any hew the part that confuses me is the tdc. At what point do I move the engine by hand and when do I stop? Forgive my drrrrr nesssssss.

 

ck the cam lobe(10 oclock position) at zero TDC with timming tab rotor points correctly 1 3 4 2 counter clock wise fire order and this MOFO will start!!!!!!!!

 

 

I hope this new Matcbox dizzy had the timming plate and the mount that came with it?????

[Uncle Laulau]

This an old picture I now have the distributor from a 1979 620 electronic matchbox style and all the stuff that the parts store said came with that distributor. I'm sorry this is a new skill for me...cars and interweb forums.

[Uncle Laulau]

oops

[ggzilla]

OIC -- you have a 1971 Datsun 521 pickup, and have fitted a newer type distributor from a 1979 Datsun 620 pickup. That is a good idea.

 

 

first put in the new coil ... Soon after I think I burned my points

If it was running OK for a while then the distributor is physically installed correctly. Unless you had it removed from the block since then, don't worry about the timing.

[Uncle Laulau]

OIC -- you have a 1971 Datsun 521 pickup, and have fitted a newer type distributor from a 1979 Datsun 620 pickup. That is a good idea.

 

 

 

If it was running OK for a while then the distributor is physically installed correctly. Unless you had it removed from the block since then, don't worry about the timing.

 

Oh my, it seems working on these trucks is as complicated as talking about them. Just joking, I love trying to sop up all knowledge. I have a 1971 521 with a l18 and a five speed from a 200sx unknown year. So to be all thumbs under the hood really compounds the confusion and such.

 

So I saw a list of donor vehicles with compatible mathchbox distributors. The 1979 620 came up so I asked for the part and its coil, cap, rotor, plug wires, and resister. I hope it is indeed compatible. We shall see. Tomorow I may be driving about in my old truck laughing at all the Subaru drivers and their all wheel drive niceness, I'm being dumb.

[banzai510(hainz)]

crap this should be running already since the last post .

 

hook it up like this(this is correcct wirie for what you have.PEROID!!!!!!) if still doesnt start its a mecahnical timming. Electricall this is the way to hook it up!!!!!

 

Read again

first mistake is you have the wrong blk wht wire hooked up. Why i say that its small and I see the main 12volt blk/wht wire right in the center of the photo not hooked up!!!!!!!!!!You can ck this by turn key on and see if you get 12volts with the volt meter, Thats how you know!

 

Ok I will go by what you have.

ignor all the other posts when it comes to wireing but they would still have gotting the thing started.

 

sinc you got a coil that says to use the ballast we will go by this and what it says to use.

 

Take the Big blk/wht wire place it on left side of the resisitor REMOVE the small one. the right side resisitor what you have is OK with the blk/red. This is correct.

now take the B of the matchbox and hook it to the left side of the resisitor(remove from +side coil). These will all be shorted to the 12volts which will be the left side of the resisitor.So there will be 2 wires on the left side resisitor.blk/wht and the blu wire from the macthbox B connection,

C is - side coil

 

ck the cam lobe(10 oclock position) at zero TDC with timming tab rotor points correctly 1 3 4 2 counter clock wise fire order and this MOFO will start!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

After this I give up.

 

 

sell truck for 100$

[Uncle Laulau]

crap this should be running already since the last post .

 

hook it up like this(this is correcct wirie for what you have.PEROID!!!!!!) if still doesnt start its a mecahnical timming. Electricall this is the way to hook it up!!!!!

 

Read again

first mistake is you have the wrong blk wht wire hooked up. Why i say that its small and I see the main 12volt blk/wht wire right in the center of the photo not hooked up!!!!!!!!!!You can ck this by turn key on and see if you get 12volts with the volt meter, Thats how you know!

 

Ok I will go by what you have.

ignor all the other posts when it comes to wireing but they would still have gotting the thing started.

 

sinc you got a coil that says to use the ballast we will go by this and what it says to use.

 

Take the Big blk/wht wire place it on left side of the resisitor REMOVE the small one. the right side resisitor what you have is OK with the blk/red. This is correct.

now take the B of the matchbox and hook it to the left side of the resisitor(remove from +side coil). These will all be shorted to the 12volts which will be the left side of the resisitor.So there will be 2 wires on the left side resisitor.blk/wht and the blu wire from the macthbox B connection,

C is - side coil

 

ck the cam lobe(10 oclock position) at zero TDC with timming tab rotor points correctly 1 3 4 2 counter clock wise fire order and this MOFO will start!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

After this I give up.

 

 

sell truck for 100$

Ok I'm going outside to do exactly this, except the cam thing. I don't want to take off the valve cover, If I understand correctly, at tdc it will point toward one or four plug correct. I don't agree on selling the truck for $100, last time you said $300 and since then I've put about $150 into it since that saucy comment, not to mention all my hard work and my neighbors hard work and you guys and all your work...sooooo how about $1,000,000 oh yahhhh.

[banzai510(hainz)]

except the cam thing. I don't want to take off the valve cover,

 

Dont have to ,remove the oil cap and if lobe is at 10 o clock position then you know its on compression stroke. just put crank to Zero. then where the rotor points to that will be your NUMBER 1 plug wire. then go 1 3 4 2 COUNTER CLOCK WISE. It will work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It will work. it will fire. adjust as nessicary , might have to loosen that 8mm on the bottom to get the timming plate adjust to center the whole thing but I hope you can figure it out from there. let warm up. adjust timming again and adjust carb and should be good.

 

 

I don't agree on selling the truck for $100, last time you said $300 and since then I've put about $150 into it ???

 

I hear of people that spent $10k on a remodle jobs and house went down $25k so far this year!!!!!

[ggzilla]

haha, don't get too discouraged. It'll be running soon. If you were closer I'd come over to get the pizza and get er running.