banzai510(hainz) Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 txt me if you get it runn n 253 653 3690 out for the rest of day Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Ok I'm going outside to do exactly this, except the cam thing. I don't want to take off the valve cover, If I understand correctly, at tdc it will point toward one or four plug correct. I don't agree on selling the truck for $100, last time you said $300 and since then I've put about $150 into it since that saucy comment, not to mention all my hard work and my neighbors hard work and you guys and all your work...sooooo how about $1,000,000 oh yahhhh. I've done exactly what you said except the valve cover removal. I tdc the engine lined up the teeth and had the rotor pointing at one or four? Checked black and white wires with neighbors volt meter. Put the one with 12 volts when ignition was on to left side of resister. Put B post wire on the same left side of resister. took original black and red wires one pos coil post. Finally I have c post going toward neg coil post. Got some sputtering when cranking it over and nothing as soon as I stopped cranking the starter. I'm hoping I flooded it and I am waiting. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 you got the WRONG blk /wht wire still hooked up. Get rid of it! The blk/wht FAT wire you need is the one right there(with the clear whittish connector) that goes to the left side of the ballast resistor Once you get that then its correct electrically OK Im done now. Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 ITS RUNNING AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! THANKS EVERYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 You got the blk/ white wire as I said to use with the clear whittish connector? WHO is your daddy!!!!!!!!!!!!! Say it!!!!!!!!!!!!! Say IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! get a timming light and set it and youll be Pimpin till the next proplem! Crap almost had a 100$ truck! personally I would make athe matchbox wire red B and blk C incase you have to remove them later and dont get them confused and pop the box later 2 Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 You got the blk/ white wire as I said to use with the clear whittish connector? WHO is your daddy!!!!!!!!!!!!! Say it!!!!!!!!!!!!! Say IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! get a timming light and set it and youll be Pimpin till the next proplem! Crap almost had a 100$ truck! personally I would make athe matchbox wire red B and blk C incase you have to remove them later and dont get them confused and pop the box later Yes your help was a huge, if not the main reason the truck is running. I am so thankful for all your advice, however the wire you wanted me to connect to the left resistor post was dead per the volt meter. I checked the other and it had over 12v when the ignition was in the on position. I think the wiring of this truck has been severely altered. You should see the battery side, it would make you crazy! Thanks again, next the weber gets a rebuild. weeeeeeeeee. Then the clutch and then and then and then my wife reminds me about our income verses expenditures. Ps went to my first meet. Dogs and Rods. Stalled on the bridge on the way. The wife was supper inpressed....um she hates this truck officially. Stalled in the driveway of the meet. We met some really nice people...even some ratson friends! They even gave me some grate tips on my dying weber. As in... rebuild it. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 To bad I haven't been following this thread, I live in vancouver and could have come over and made it run if it was going to, I have the same setup in my work truck. PM me, let me get a look at your truck, I live in east vancouver wa. just off millplain blvd. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Wayno PM him. He dont come on here unless his trucks broke. Ck it out. I like the truck. Its a good truck! keep it alive. I think he said he needs a clutch soon so he will be back on here later Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Wayno PM him. He dont come on here unless his trucks broke. Ck it out. I like the truck. Its a good truck! keep it alive. I think he said he needs a clutch soon so he will be back on here later I went visiting him today, the truck runs allright, it sounds a little funny, but that might be that he is running a stock exhaust manifold, and all my L blocks that I DD have headers. Are webber carbs supposed to have a fuel return line back to the tank? His truck/engine has the return line, but it is not being used, also the vapor separater is gone, can the stock fuel pump put to much pressure into the webber carb without the return line? I don't know a lot about downdraft carbs, I run SU types, I kinda understand them, at least enough to adjust them. I guess next time I go over there I will take the work truck to compare the dist. wiring. wayno Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Are webber carbs supposed to have a fuel return line No. I don't know any carburetors that require a return line. Instead they were fitted to control emissions (to lessen heat soak) and to mitigate vapor lock. It isn't to help the carburetor. The fuel feed system for Weber is exactly like the SU type carburetors. They both have a fuel bowl and needle valve. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 one change to your setup I might suggest.....move the dizzy ground wire to the core support or body. The bolts on the engine really aren't a very good path back to battery ground. I've had guys fighting with poor running because they had the wire grounded at the base of the dizzy. I had them switch it....they were amazed at the difference in how it ran....especially at higher rpms. :) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Stock exhaust manifolds are fine. No need a return line for the carb. just time it and adjust the carb mixure/ speed idle and should be fine. if you like him do a valve adjust and make him watch then make him do the rest.(only way to learn) Timming light? this helps to see where timming is at and incase its erratic Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 No. I don't know any carburetors that require a return line. Instead they were fitted to control emissions (to lessen heat soak) and to mitigate vapor lock. It isn't to help the carburetor. The fuel feed system for Weber is exactly like the SU type carburetors. They both have a fuel bowl and needle valve. My SU type side drafts have a fuel pressure valve(on the rear carb itself) and a fuel return line that goes back to the tank, his truck also has a fuel pressure valve(on the inner fender) and return line that has been taken out of operation, I repeat, can a stock fuel pump over pressurize a webber carbarator? He says he has it timed at 12 degrees before TDC, he also had it idling really slow, I never seen a L block actually idle that slow before, maybe it's a downdraft carb thing, that J block I had would run at maybe 500 rpm with a downdraft. He is going to rebuild the carb, so I think we should wait and see if there is an improvement, if there is, then he has some other things that need attention to make it a reliable daily. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hey Kevin, did you need one rear lense or a pair? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 can a stock fuel pump over pressurize a webber carbarator? No. Not if it is working correctly. The Datsun-Hitachi sidedrafts, in fact, use the exact same inlet needle valve as downdraft Hitachis. Most SUs don't have a return line. None of mine do. Certainly the newer ones from emissions-controlled cars might. A return line is helpful to reduce emissions. Idle speed spec is probably around 700 or 750 RPM. Most engines can idle lower than 600 RPM if the carbs are in like new condition but as the throttle shafts wear they let too much air in and won't idle down that low. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 increase he idle speed with the speeed screw. Nothing wrong with that carb i bet. Quote Link to comment
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