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Head info and help


izzo

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First I need to know if the valves in an open chamber W58 is the same as a closed chamber W53. I can't read a tape measure for shit, and i dont have a micrometer. A simple yes or no would do.

 

FYI, W53 is 1.65" intake valves and 1.38" exhaust valves.

 

Second, I bought this head and its supposed to be "good". But after further inspection, I am not sure. Looks like a valve seat is coming out?? And there is a nasty little gouge next to it. Thoughts/opinions?

 

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it does look like the seat is not correct.....with those marks around the seat it looks like someone center punched teh material around the seat to "tighten" up the area to hopefully help keep the seat seated but it dont look like it worked to me

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it does look like the seat is not correct.....with those marks around the seat it looks like someone center punched teh material around the seat to "tighten" up the area to hopefully help keep the seat seated but it dont look like it worked to me

 

 

Figured as much, I wasn't planning on running it after seeing all of that. Guess ill just rape the parts out of it and scrap the head...

 

 

Any ideas on the valves?

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That doesnt look right,can you turn the cam and get that valve to open to see if the seat is loose? what are those 4 holes about that are next to the valve,looks like someone started drilling.

 

 

Theres no bolt in there right now, ill try and find one sometime and spin it.

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

The dimples are there, to hold the seat(s) in place. Something about brass seats and alum, they just dont like it( I am no metaologist(if thats a word).

Also appears that the guide(or just angle)is off(closer to one side of the seat) :unsure:

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First I need to know if the valves in an open chamber W58 is the same as a closed chamber W53. I can't read a tape measure for shit, and i dont have a micrometer. A simple yes or no would do.

 

FYI, W53 is 1.65" intake valves and 1.38" exhaust valves.

 

Second, I bought this head and its supposed to be "good". But after further inspection, I am not sure. Looks like a valve seat is coming out?? And there is a nasty little gouge next to it. Thoughts/opinions?

 

DSCF0179.jpg

 

Your head will make an exemplary doorstop, or shop class case study in bandaid procedures. It had previously dropped a seat, so badly that the original counterbore was either seriously compromised or the new seat installer did so by braille. I'm guessing it was somewhere that correct parts were at a premium. Using supplies on hand an over-sized (AND too tall) seat was installed off-center of the valve, and overbored as well~ hence the staking. To properly repair it would require welding up the seat counterbore, annealing, recutting, then refitting the proper seat; a not unheard of practice- but one usually reserved for more rare and/or exotic pieces. Seats should NEVER protrude above the parent metal, as hotspots on the sharp edges (and therefore detonation) becomes highly probable. Get your money back if at all possible....

 

Quiz on Tuesday.:lol:

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it's a open chamber.. don't know if you know yet...

 

 

lol, yes i know its open chamber. I have a closed chamber w53 i need some valves for.

 

I dunno if i can get my money back, probably not... i bought it from another ratsuner, in all fairness - I dont think he ever ran it and didn't know about the condition. In fact, i remember asking him about the valve seat and he shrugged :lol:

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lol, yes i know its open chamber. I have a closed chamber w53 i need some valves for.

 

I dunno if i can get my money back, probably not... i bought it from another ratsuner, i dont think he ever ran it

 

re-read the original question.. gotcha lol

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yes. you need your head checked!

 

 

 

 

i have some random valves around...

 

 

Can you check and see if they are 1.65 and 1.38. If so im in need, sooner the better. Going to drop this W53 off to get rebuilt once i get some. I found a head, for 35. But if i go that route, its only a couple dollars more for NEW valves...

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