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WTF is wrong with my car


ricky

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Ok guys i have searched high and low on this site for the problem with my car. I had a l16 and the motor would run good then it would start to sputter and die and then not start again. Then I would mess with coil dizzy carb a d plugs to see what the deal was after having head rebuilt and a million other parts I pulled it and put a l20b in. I did not use a single part from old motor. Except alternator. I started car and pulled wire to see if it stays running and it did. I start to dive car home. I get about half way there and bam all of a sudden. Same exact thing as l16. Please help. I am thinking maybe its the wiring in my car. Maybe getting not enough spark or inconsistent spark. Can you guys point me I. The right direction I am 100% positive that I am getting fuel

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if the car does it with a different motor, my guess would be wiring between the car and motor. check all connections on the coil to the ignition switch.

 

thats the only info i can give and its based on problems i've had. mine would run great in the driveway, and as soon as i would take off the black and white wire would give me shit. i fired my car up, and started wiggling wires, it was easiest to find it that way. good luck!!!

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The ballast resistor get hot with use. Next time it does this, have a jumper wire handy and connect from the positive battery post to the positive terminal on the coil. This will remove the ignition switch and ballast resistor from the circuit. If this fixes the problem then you have narrowed it down.

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You have points or a electronic ignition?

 

If points you need a stock point tyep coil and the ballast resisitor(white ceramic thing on inside fender)

this keeps the points from burning up but using a 1.6 ohm coil and a ballast resisitor.

page 181 in the Haynes manual has the drawing and on here( I cant post photos on this site)

 

I assume you have a mismatch parts set where too much current is killing soemthing.wrong coil/missin ballast?

 

next is I would ck the valve lash just in case things tighten up since you put a new head on.

 

 

a enigne cutting out is not reason for a motor pull.

 

find a Datsun owner in your area to help you(not a Datsun cracker)

 

stay running more than a second? You mean it run if you have it in START position on switch?

 

This is a simple FIX.

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I think the dizzy I have is points turned into ei it has the pertronix thing inside dizzy. And I am nolomger using the motor that I had head rebuilt on I am using a l20b now. And it ran perfect in drive way and for about half a mile before it emulated my l16.

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Pertronix needs a point coil and the ballast resistor. stock 510 is 1.6 ohm EACH =total 3.2 ohms.

 

so youll use a 3 wire system

 

blk/wht wire (ON)

blk/blu is the (START)

blk/grn

 

the 510 keeper lives near you have him fix this for you

 

only you know where the ballast resisitor IS or hooked up, and what coil you have.

send photo of your coil close up

 

 

PM you email adress Ill send How I hooked up my Pertronix

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how ever i drove my datsun with other motor for several months with out this issue

 

 

 

I can only give my best guess. It could go a few months before it pops. It could be the Petronix went bad also.

There are a few varibles as I had listed above.

Unless that is a 3 ohm coil you have there. But I am here. I dont know where you got it from. If from a newer datsun its a Low ohm coil of most likely .7 ohms and if no ballast that Pertronix was getting HOT.

If just a point coil and no ballast The coil could get HOT running at 12-14 volts. Point coils run at close to 6volts or less depending on what ohm ballast.

 

If your sure the valve lash is good and your getting gas. I think its the ignition is the first thing to look at.

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Ok ,,, on the coil side of things ,,, The ballast resistor ,,, when I unplug either of the two wires that go to it on my Z car ,,, it will "fire up" for 1 sec or less ,,, and die ,,, Are you 100% sure the connection is good ? and the wires are hooked up correctly at this area ? ,,, ( I unplugged it as a theft deterrent amongst other things )

 

Also one of my connectors to the resistor was so loose that at the time ,,, going over speed bumps and what not,,, , it would just pop offf , crazy i know ,,, but it happened :lol:

 

:)

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The Accel small round coil is know as the superstock( i think they are Made in China now). This is a POINT coil. I believe the ohm vaulue is 1.4 which is close enough. But if you dont have a ballast resisitor you Pertronix or coil will get hot.

 

I run a Accell Super Coil witch is the BIG one(.7ohms) and I run 2 ballast resisitors to make up the diffence in the low value but thats another story.

 

I think we are narrowing it down.

 

Just depends what you have as spares at home to run.

EI Datsun amd MSD coils are like .7 but can run on 12-14 volts made for the matchbox or remote box

 

Points/Pertronix need more resisitance.

 

You see now you might have a bad Pertronix also so its almost better to start from scatch .

 

 

You see if you have a EI coil and no ballast best just get a matchbox.

If no matchbox you better fnd a point coil and ballast along with a point dizzy(junk yard grab from another datsun)

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I wont be here in hr

Maybe Datzenmike can help

 

depends if your Pertronix is bad. If bad, almost better to get local used a matchbox dizzy and EI coil.

 

I dont know what a Bad Pertronix looks like. I assume plull the center coil wire and place near ground and see if sparks. Maybe your magnets flew apart ck that also.

 

If you have aspare point dizzy youll need a ballast and you have the point coil. I hope the ballast is at least 1 ohm but better around 1.5 or so.

 

I love my Pertronix and run 3 of them and put a couple in other cars and a Jeep.

But the matchbox is better if you have the whole dizzy and timming plate/ mount. if bushing is still good

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ok so here are some pics so you guys know what i have on my car sorry they were taken with iphone.

this is whats in car

photo6.jpg

 

this was on the l16 that had same problem

photo9.jpg

 

coil

photo4.jpg

 

other motor dose not have this but this is on l20

photo5.jpg

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Yea the first thing I did when it died was check for fuel and spark. Fuel is good I'm 100% sure on that and it seems like it's bot getting consistent spark or not a hot enough spark. The fact that I'm supposed to have a ballast and don't indicates that to me that it's part of the problem. I have gon over the old motor so much then when I put a new motor and it dose same thing. And I think when I put the new coil in is when to problem started

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Like Hainz said, it is likely that you burned out the pertronix unit. I would recommend getting a new one and a new coil that either has the recommended resistance internally (like 3.2 ohms or something) or using a ballast resistor to achieve the 3.2 ohms of resistance required.

 

I have burned up pertronix units in the past by going to a hot coil and not considering the change in internal resistance.

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Ok his helps with the photos.

 

I didnt know you had a matchbox. YOu still have it? if yes then get a Datsun 79 coil from a 620/720 or 200sx. and just install that. then you dont need a ballast resisitor.

blk/wht wire shorted to the blk/blu wire to the + side coil,just double post the +side of the coil so you dont have to cut wires

B to + coil

C to - side coil

 

If pertronix.(point coil as the accell you got, and the ballast)

then use the Drawing I sent PM you

 

 

What coil you had with the matchbox orginally?If you had a EI coil it should dhave been fine, most proplems are ground corrision on those.

 

was this car ever running right?

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That matchbox is on my l16 it was a daily driver I put the accel coil on and when on a 2 hour drive after I came back the car started having issues it didn't seem like electrical to me so I checked everything else finly got topoint where I but l20. Then a half mile later same exactissue. Yes I still have matchbox

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