Just got a 620

[herculesinwyoming]

it will run i am sure

[jputz]

Alright now that the weather has started to cooperate again I have dove back into the 74. After fighting with the drive shaft for three hours, Bitch was stuck in the tail housing of the trans, I got it out, disassembled, carrier bearing swapped and painted. Figured I would post my progress while the paint was drying.

 

Fresh Paint and Carrier Bearing

 

[jputz]

Alright guys so after putting the driveshaft in I took the 620 for a spin. Cut off on me a couple times (due to a suspected vacumm leak). It sat in the driveway idleing for about ten min while I was checking things out and trying to align the headlights. After letting it idle I shut it off and waited a min and tried to restart it, but no such luck. Dead battery!!!! Got my service manual today to read at work and was wondering where I should focus.

 

Attaching a video of it idleing, if you hear anything strange let me know trying to get this up to DD status as quick as possible.

 

http://s1123.photobucket.com/albums/l543/jputz2011/?action=view¤t=d44650fd.mp4

[jputz]

Alright guys need new tires and I am having trouble finding a 205/60R14 so I decided it was time for an upgrade. Any one know if wheels and tires off an 06 frontier will fit? I work at LKQ and we had one dropped off with decent wheels and tires on it. They are a 285/65R16, will these fit in the front I am worried about them rubbing?

[K_trip]

I'm not sure about the wheels, I think at some point (maybe 2004 or 2005) the bolt pattern changed (I'm not sure, just trying to help).

 

As for the tires, they seem too large. I have a '74 620 with 215/65R15 which are pretty much the same 26" hieght as the 205/60R14

 

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=53

 

This chart show overall tire diameters, at the bottom you'll see the 26" selection.

Your 285/65R16 look to be much taller. Most likely too large, especially when lowered.

[jputz]

Nevermind eveyone found some 14s hopefully will be mounted and balanced tonight.

[jputz]

well one of the new to me 14s had a hole in the sidewall so went back today and swapped it out with another one. On the road again and now time to focus on the timing and a tune up as well as a steering rebuild. Thanks to Moog and Rock Auto for their fast shipping. Ordered monday and arrived on wednesday.

 

King Pin Kit, Center Link, Tie Rods, and Pitman Arm.

 

Got a Carb rebuild kit. oil, and oil filter.

 

Looks like my weekend is set for me.

[Rambler73]

Rear brake drum? :blink: :unsure: :angry:

Sometimes they are the worst to remove. On the bottom of the backing plate,there's an adjustment wheel. Using a brake adjusting tool-basically a bent screwdriver,you have to adjust the shoes away from the drum. Or,like most 620s,the adjuster is frozen too. You'll probably end up like most guys and use a combination of Liquid Wrench,heat,a BFH ,and most important,patience.

If it won't turn,it sounds like the shoes are stuck. A little heat and hammering ought to break it free. Some drums have 2 threaded holes on the face. Bolts fit in there to (supposedly) get the drum off. IF you don't strip the threads first.

If you want to save your studs while hammering,put the lug nuts on first. Ask me how I know...

Can't wait for the pics. Keep us updated!

 

 

Well I think I heated and hammered enough and I dnt have those two holes. The rear drums r still on. Wheels spin but can't get drums off. Trying to replace cylinders all the way around. Any tips ? Or do I need to keep trying?

[jputz]

Alright guys changed the oil, bleed the slave cylinder, and adjusted the timing last night. Everything went ok and the timing appears to be dead on.

 

Now heres my question... The timing is dead on but I am still getting a popping when I let off the gas and there is a stumble on take of. When I am sitting at a light/stop sign/in traffic and I step on the gas it completly drops out and the engine feels like its about to shut off (like its starving for fuel). What could cause this? I have my suspicions but I want to get a second or third or fourth opinion on it.

 

While running down the road it runs great! Just got to get the brakes straigtened out, and get to the steering components hopefully this weekend.

 

On a side note is anyone else having trouble posting pics? Cant seem to get any to work!!!

[jputz]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Slave cylinder went out on the way to work this morning. Hope that I can limp it to the parts store and fix it in the parking lot on the way home. Unfortunatly Adavance is the only one that has one in stock and it is about 10 miles, through traffic, from work!!!!!!

[sick620]

man your lucky with all these datsuns out there in georgia... they are super rare out there... cant wait for your progress... :)

[jputz]

Sick620....thanks man. They are pretty rare on the east coast. The two 620s came out of GA but the 510 I had to go to OK to pick up!!

 

Anways the slave cylinder swapped out was painless, thankfully!!!! Now to rebuild the carb and install the steering stuff I got last week. Was remodling the bathroom this weekend so the truck got pushed back.

 

Still running pretty good, been DDing it for the last two weeks and only had a couple minor issues. The one issue I have that I hope will get cleaned up when I rebuild the carb. I have a stumble at cruising speed usually between 45-60mph almost like its not getting fuel. If I let off or stomp on it it corrects itself temporarily but as soon as I get back to cruising the stumple comes back. Any suggestions with what I should look at?

 

Thanks everyone.

[jputz]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH one more time. Got up this morning and the 620 started fine, but when I got to the gas station and filled up it wouldnt START!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got a jump and went on to work. Ran fine all the way to work. Get here and shut the truck off and tried to imediatly restart it and nothing. Oh well guess its time to break out the multimeter and start testing. Think its time to upgrade the alternator.

[jputz]

Well went out on lunch to find out if I could figure out my charging system issue, and low and behold the damn belt had loosened up again and caused the alternator not to charge properly!!!! Will get a jump after work and see if that fixes my issue.

[sick620]

just went through these alt problems with mine... hope you get it figured out..

[jputz]

AHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!! Here we go again!!! This is getting rediculous. Jumped in the truck this morning rode down to the gas station left her running, came outside and it had a strange tick to it. Shut the truck off and popped the hood. Checked the oil and it was LOW (due to leaking valve cover gasket). Added a quart and a half of oil and started it back up and the tick was gone. Started down the road and after about 5 miles the tick came back, this time it was a little louder. Did a u-turn and started back to the house, and had a severe lack of power. Went about a mile and it shut off. DAMN IT!!!! Wouldnt start back up checked the oil and it was low again. Walked to the store and picked up three more quarts. Filled up the oil. Still no start and now the starter is clicking. Got it home and put a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt and the engine turns over by hand and has decent compression at least according to my highly calibrated elbow.

 

Any help guys where should I start. This is my DD and I cant have it down for two long. Got a day off thursday and plan on spending the day working on it.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Josh

[zoltans4]

bad alternator is my guess. diagnosed before and happened before.... in fact in my 240z there was some issue with the alternator or the voltage regulator and in any event the car would run fine because it was charged, then the battery would loose charge and then you loose power cause of low voltage, then it ides and clicking starter.... classic....

 

i believe the oil is unrelated, but it is obviously your ticking problem. fix the gasket and put proper weight oil in there

 

btw, this is easy differential diagnosis. jump the truck put your meter at the ground and the voltage + of the alternator and look at the reading... then basically remove jumper cables and your truck will die anyway...

[converted_to_datsun]

If alternator tests fine try cleaning battery cables and connections. check coil connection. A really low idle can be a problem too sometimes. My carb was missing a peice and it would barely idle then eventually after draining the battery a couple times there was no juice. I fixed the idle and no problems since. Oh and in my case alternator was ruled out because it's brand new

[jputz]

Alright guys heres another update....

 

So yesterday I took a day off work to mess with the 620 and do some other shit around the house. The good news is all it needed was a starter. The bad news is that after replacing the valve cover gasket, adjusting the valves, and adjusting the carb slightly, the engine started knocking worse than before. Before I could get to the ignition switch to shut it off BAM the mother fucker spun a rod bearing and locked up!!!!!

 

So I am in the need for a replacement. I have 4 engines at the house so I might rebuild one of them. I have a L16 (69 510), a L18 (74 620), a L20 (75 620), and a VG30 (86 300ZX). The VG is for my 510 so thats out of the question. The L16 out of my 510 is of unknown condition. The L18 obviously is locked up. The L20 is also locked up.

 

So if anyone has a lead on a cheap/running L18 or L20 please let me know ASAP as I am down to one vehicle at the moment, and the wife is a little pissed!!!

 

Thanks

[zoltans4]

I run a l16 in my 620 gets huge gas mileage.. You already have it so throw it in

[Slixon]

Go with the VG, nobody does that!

[Dat1977]

Sick truck dude!

[jputz]

Alright guys after 11 months of down time I am going to revive this thread.  Finally got some bills paid off and now I have some extra money to throw into the 620.  It hasnt been touched in almost a year now.

 

Two weeks ago I started this process and I will be documenting it here as I go. 

 

Forgot to take pics of the engine removal, but we have all seen that.  Tonight I got the engine up on the engine stand and started tearing into her.  I took a few pictures along the way but had to stop due to the fact that I ran out of BP Blaster.  Here are a few oics and there will be plenty more to follow.  My goal is to have it stripped down and cleaned up a little by the end of the weekend so that next week I can take it to the machine shop. 

 

Engine on stand

 

 

Fuel Pump, Fuel Line, T-Stat Housing, and Coolant Lines removed

 

Intake Manifold, Exhaust Manifold, Carb all gone

 

Manifold, Carb, and a mess of other stuff came off all in one piece

 

Had to stop for the night due to lack of penetrating oil.  I was shocked that I only broke one bolt.  The lower bolt for the T-Stat housing snapped on the first turn.  Oh well shit happens.  Will have to extract that bolt then chase all the threads to make sure this goes back together without a hitch.  While the engine is at the machine shop I have a few things I need to take care of in the cab and I am going to clean the engine bay some in preperation for the install and a slight wire tuck.  Hopefully this will all be finished by the end of April.  I am really getting tired of driving my Expedition and getting approx. 10-15 mpg.  Its killing my wallet. 

 

Thanks for checking out my build.

 

Josh

[jputz]

Alright guys...

 

With the holiday being this past weekend I wasnt able to get out to the shed to work as much as I'd have liked to, but I did turn a few wrenches this weekend.

 

Found my issue.....

 

^^^^^ That would be #3 end cap, a piece of the piston skirt, whats left of the bearing, and one of two rod bolts.  Gues thats why it stopped running!!!

 

Pulled the valve cover and Oil Pan off as well as the timing components.

 

Next is the head and rotating assembly.  Cant wait to see what damage losing that end cap did.  From what I could see the crank is a little scored.  Hoping the it and the cylinder can be cleaned up but we will see.  Hope to get a few min tonight to pull everything and see.

 

Josh