superc_1 Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I'm the one with carb icing about a week ago. Never could get it fixed, so I took it in. The guy says its pouring gas out of the primary. WHAT would make it do this? The gas in the carb is in the middle of the glass. Does anybody have any suggestion? HELP. I know get a weber!! I got a weber but I need the adapter plate, Anybody have one laying around. I would like to get this running till I find a adapter. D Quote Link to comment
freaky510 Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 What I didnt need a plate for THAT carb.:confused: so you need a plate shit sorry man i will see if i can find you one and iam really sorry that it was not a bolt on I wounder why it bolts upto my datsun and not yours.Once again I am sorry i will see if i have one laying around.Thats not Kool with me when i sell you something. Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Have you recently rebuilt the carb?? I had the same problem with my Hitachi carb and I had some crap inside of the carb causing the ball barrings to dislodge and the bowl would drain into the intake after sitting over night. I rebuilt it twice to make it run then the third time I took it apart to rebuild it it would not run.....very frustrating!! I bought a reman Hitachi by Holley and changed the plugs, runs like a champ now. Check your local import parts store for that adapter. You may get lucky with a kind hearted datto brother. Good Luck!! I am considering getting the Weber myself but I just spent 300.00 on the Holley. :( You might contact Lance Kilgore, he is around here somewhere...look him up. He had a weber cheap and he may have that plate too. Just an idea. Keep me posted, Aaron ;) Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Freaky 510 Hey thats the chance you take when you buy something like that, but if you do have one lying around I sure could use it. It fit yours probally cause its a dime with a differewnt manifold. I have had the the carb (hatatchi) off this last weekend putting loctite on the bolts so it would stop rattling apart. I wonder if have gotten the ball out of place? Were is that ball thing located? Can I see it without taking the carb off (thats a pain). Something got to be plug, any placeto look at first? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 http://www.tdperformance.com/pdfs/16-importCarbAdapters.pdf They usually rin around $20 The L16/L18 adapter is different than the L20 adapter. Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 what size fuel line is used on the return fuel hose? the rubber part. I thinking I might be drawing air or have a stopped up return line which could be causing the primary to overflow? I had to cut a small section off when I work on the carb a couple weeks ago. Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Try this link: http://www.the620.com/data/Hitachi_Carb_DCH_DCP_DRJ340.pdf This gives you the exploded view of a DCH-340....the same info that comes in a rebuild kit. Hope it helps.:) Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I've Looked At All Of That But It Doesn't Show Anything. I Was Trying To Find Out So I Could Pick Some Up At Lunch So I Didn't Have To Drive Back Into Town This Weekend. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 what size fuel line is used on the return fuel hose? the rubber part. I thinking I might be drawing air or have a stopped up return line which could be causing the primary to overflow? I had to cut a small section off when I work on the carb a couple weeks ago. I doubt it's the return line. It has a restriction in the end of the metal tube to keep the pump pressure up while allowing any vapor bubbles to be pushed out and back to the tank. If you clamped it closed it would still work. The old L16s didn't have them. Also can't see how gas would pour out the primary, or the secondary. Gas would have to flow up hill to do this. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 Fuel line? No Block air jet? Yes. Missing check ball? Maybe. Carb needs a cleaning of the jets and emulsion tubes. Minor maintainence might fix it. Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Took carb apart Saturday. The (I Think) power valve had almost come unscrewed. The tube coming out of the carb top that has a spring on it, well down in the bottom of that thing was almost unscrewed the whole way so I tighten it up and sprayed all the orifices and things out. Put it back together and she runnin fine. Its like I have to retighten every nut and bolt on the carb about every two months!! Is this normal for these carbs? Thanks for everybodys help. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 No you should NOT have to tighten them down every 2 months otherwise they would be alot of 620s for sale or broke. What a minute there is alot that are broke. A Weber DGV will set you FREE!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Hainz, Hey I bought a 32/36 dgav off of freaky 510, will it work fine? Whats the difference between the dgev and dgav carb? I have to get a adapter for it(dgav carb). If anybody has one lying around I'm Interested. Quote Link to comment
freaky510 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/100_099_p/100.099.htm let me know if its the right one Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 DGAV is a water heated coil . It will have a water inlet/outlet. But this can be removed and a cheap choke kit(with wire cable) can be applied to move the lever that was in the coil to move the plate open closed DGAV http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32_36_DGAV_p/22680.051b.htm a DGEV is a electic with a 12volt tab on the coil as pictured here Quote Link to comment
freaky510 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 i sold him a plain 32/36 with eletric choke the old school type no water crap he just needs a plate. is that the right plate Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 The carb says dgav on the side, but it must have been converted to the electric choke. Freaky 510 I think I'm needing the two piece adapter, they say the the one piece is bad to crack? I'm going to keep my eye for a adapter since I've got old carb going. I'm going to have to buy the air cleaner adapter also I like the look of stock cleaner. Will all of that fit under the hood once its bolted on? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 sometimes near the base they will give it a generic base # Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Whats The Best Way To Adjust The B.c.c.d. Valve. I Smell A Lot Of Cardon Dioxide When I Turn The Truck Off Or Setting At A Red Light. I've Taken The Bccd Valve A Couple Of Times When Removing Carb. It Makes It Easy To Get At The Carb Bolt When You Take That Off. I'm Wondering If I Have Gotten It Out Of Wack. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Your use of capitals is giving me a headache... Which carb are you trying to adjust now? Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 I'm working on my stock hatichi carb. Sorry for the caps! I work for an architect and we use caps on everything and I forget to turn it off (most of the time). Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Here I am again:confused:I just pulled the #2 plug and it has soot and gas on it and its black. Whats this indictative of normally. I guess it just fuilding bad? I'm pulling it back off and see if I can find the problem, and wait on my carb adapter to get here for my weber. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 It means your carb is set to rich. Quote Link to comment
superc_1 Posted February 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Well the idle screw was about ten turns out, but I also notice that the thottle plate open a hair. Would idle screw open that much dump enough fuel to foul plugs? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 I would be your mixture screw that would need to be adjusted. It's best to adjust with the engine running. Turn it in until the rpms go down. Then back it off 1/4 turn. It also happens if the engine isn't firing in that cylinder but the plug would be wet and smell of gas. Quote Link to comment
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