does this cam timing look correct?

[Dirttrack510]

I just found this thread and it saved my life. :D I'm hoping my engine runs when I put it back in the car.

[tr8er]

Thought I'd revisit to a classic, and see if everything looks right on my setup so far?

 

 

 

 

I believe tdc is found. Looks like the shiny link is on 2. I've adjusted the distributor advance so 1 is at tdc. The thing that is troubling me is the mark on the cam sprocket does not have any corresponding mark on the camshaft housing. I believe this may be an aftermarket cam sprocket that covers the mark up. But that is my main question. Am I missing something here? Should I see a mark? Or is the cam sprocket indeed messing me up? And if so, what is my work around? Trust that it is a few degrees passenger side (American) of the bolt? Run it as is? Remove the cam sprocket to ensure timing marks line up?

 

Thanks.

[datzenmike]

The shiny link only lines up properly when installed. Once the engine is turned over it becomes random. Think about it.... the cam sprocket is 40 tooth/links and the crank is 20. Two crank turns, turns the cam once. The bright link only moves 20 links per revolution and the L20B has 44 links between the bright links so well over 88 links on the whole chain. IF... there were 100 links it would line up every 10 revolutions at exactly TDC. If the chain is a number not divisible by 20 who knows? 

 

 

Hard to tell but this looks wrong. V is to the left. Should be under or slightly right of the horizontal etch mark on the cam thrust plate.

[tr8er]

Thus the issue. No horizontal mark on thrust plate unless it is under the cam sprocket...

[datzenmike]

The thrust plate isn't changed with the cam gear. Maybe it can be put on backwards?

 

[wayno]

OK it has been a while since I have been down this road, but the photo below confuses me, if the cam lobes on number one cylinder are at 10am and 2pm, then according to this photo you have the cam sprocket located in the number one dowel hole, so my first question is if this is an L16, L18, L20b, or a LZ hybrid block?

The shiny link should be where the #1 timing mark is on the L16/L18, and then it would be 42 links between the dots on the cam sprocket and the crank gear, now if this is an L20b or LZ hybrid engine, then in my opinion, you have the cam gear installed in the wrong hole on the cam.

What engine is this?

[datzenmike]

Wayno I have to agree. If on the #1 hole the V would be to the left of the mark, as I think it is in the photo. Placing in the #2 hole will move the V about the width of the etch mark or 4 degrees to the right.

 

It still wouldn't be right as it is though even though the L16 should be in #1 hole from the factory. The V should still be under the etch mark and would need to be moved to the #2 hole. Head may have been milled down throwing it off.

[tr8er]

L20b with a stage 2 cam. The engine was assembled by a knowledgable mechanic whom I trust, and it ran for years with the current arrangement. Chain likely has 20,000 on it. What I did change was I pulled the oil pump and distributor and the pump shaft came out. So I set the pump shaft and dizzy based on the tdc seen. But I was not really able to confirm tdc because of the lack of the mark on the thrust plate.

[tr8er]

Head has been milled.

[wayno]

OK if it has not been removed(the cam gear and chain), then I will not look at the setup as it ran before.

You have no timing mark plate at the crank pulley, how do you time it then?

L20b with a stage 2 cam. The engine was assembled by a knowledgable mechanic whom I trust, and it ran for years with the current arrangement. Chain likely has 20,000 on it. What I did change was I pulled the oil pump and distributor and the pump shaft came out. So I set the pump shaft and dizzy based on the tdc seen. But I was not really able to confirm tdc because of the lack of the mark on the thrust plate.

If the crank is at TDC, and the chain was not removed, then just re-install the dist/oil pump drive gear so the it is about 11:30 looking down the dist. mount hole, I cannot remember if the fat side is towards or away from the radiator, but when you drop the dist. in, the rotor should point to about 4pm.

[datzenmike]

You can remove the oil pump distributor spindle and move anywhere you want.... it has zero effect on the timing chain position or timing.

 

Two things.

 

 

1/ If you are curious loosen the cam retaining bolt (do not remove) and slide the cam sprocket forward 1/8" and see if you can see down behind and find the etch mark. 

 

2/ Or, block the chain so the tensioner can't fall out and move the sprocket over to the #2 hole and try it. A stretched chain or cam sprocket V positioned to the left of the mark will cause all cam timing to be retarded. A retarded cam will have a late closing intake valve. (same as a longer duration cam) This will give an advantage to high RPM cylinder filling but take away from low speed intake vacuum and cylinder filling. Advancing the cam (if it is retarded, not saying it is) you may find a refreshing increase in low speed torque, mileage, better idling and power you didn't know was there.

[banzai510(hainz)]

this is simple

watch this again

 

if L20 I would run it on #2 set up.

 

 

timming looks fine to me with the dash V marks marks.

also depends how tight that sprocket fit on the dowl. My last mutihole sprocket was slightly loose on the dowl so calculate that slight movement also