Re-assembled engine wont run???? help?

[nathan_454]

ok so I took my L20 apart to do a headgasket. not because it blew, but i was fighting an oil leak that ended up being at the front of the headgasket

 

put it all back toghether no problems. set the timing chain as per hainz' video and double and triple checked it made sure my cam timing was correct

 

Inserted oil pump with the notches lined up, driveshaft is in the 11:28 position

 

inserted distributor with the rotor pointing in the right spot (matchbox) so its pointing back at the intake/exhaust manifold

 

double and tripple checked my plug wires based on the 1-3-4-2 CCW firing order.

 

Have tested spark, and i have good spark

 

have fuel at the carb, can see fuel squirting inside - so the accel pump is working.

 

It will spudder and sound like its trying to start, but only if I crank my distributor as far as i can (CW, and with the little 8mm bolt on the bottom loose as well as the 10mm adj bolt loose so i am getting lots of adj.) and if i hold the throttle wide open

 

I did have my head shaved, and i noticed when i checked the cam timing that the V notch and the dash mark are not Perfectly aligned, but i figured this was due to the head being shaved. it is about 25% in the v notch and 75% out..

 

 

The only thing i changed was when I dissasembled the motor the cam gear was set to number 1, everything i read said it was supposed to be on 2.... so i put it on 2....could this be my problem???

 

I am at a loss and am getting super frustrated with this damn thing.

 

anyone close to Olympia washington willing to stop by and help me out if we can't get if figured out on here?

 

help!

[datzenmike]

The sprocket number is unimportant, the position of the V and the horizontal etch mark governs. The V should be just slightly to the right of the etch mark above it. Being out slightly shouldn't prevent it from starting.

 

The dizzy may not be the stock one and the p/o may have 'clocked' the spindle from the 11:28 position to rotate the dizzy into a new position where the dizzy could be turned to get the correct timing. What you may have done is put it back in the 'wrong' location. (if you know what I mean.

 

Set TDC and see if the rotor is under the #1 plug wire terminal. Can the dizzy still be advanced (clock wise) enough to get the 12 degree advance needed?

[nathan_454]

The sprocket number is unimportant, the position of the V and the horizontal etch mark governs. The V should be just slightly to the right of the etch mark above it. Being out slightly shouldn't prevent it from starting.

 

Yeah it is slightly to the right right now

 

The dizzy may not be the stock one and the p/o may have 'clocked' the spindle from the 11:28 position to rotate the dizzy into a new position where the dizzy could be turned to get the correct timing. What you may have done is put it back in the 'wrong' location. (if you know what I mean.

 

Yeah i get what your saying.

 

Set TDC and see if the rotor is under the #1 plug wire terminal. Can the dizzy still be advanced (clock wise) enough to get the 12 degree advance needed?

I will try this and see. It seems to me like I checked this already but can not be for sure... it almost seems to me like I am not getting enough timing adj to make it fire. but i will go doublecheck

[nathan_454]

I edited my first post, when i was getting it to sort of fire i was rotating the distributor Clockwise, not Counterclockwise.

[datzenmike]

Did you have to move any plug wires on the dizzy cap?

[nathan_454]

Did you have to move any plug wires on the dizzy cap?

 

I just hooked it up according to rotor position and rotation. with it on tdc but i just took some pics (coming shortly, and think i may have found the problem) I dont think i can turn the distributor far enough to get the proper advance....

[nathan_454]

So i got it at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke.

 

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This is where the rotor points

 

 

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ANd this is with the cap on

 

 

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I have the distributor rotated as far CLOCKWISE as i can get it. it looks to me like i am not getting enough adj.... or my distributor shaft is off? am i on the right track?

[nathan_454]

I should add that the vacuum ADVANCE is almost touching the waterline coming off of the thermostat housing, but being at the end of the adjustment wont let it. but its close ~1/4"

[datsunaholic]

Could still have the dist drive spindle off a tooth. It's a worm gear, so it changes as it seats.

[nathan_454]

Could still have the dist drive spindle off a tooth. It's a worm gear, so it changes as it seats.

 

Yeah i understand hat.... and it seems like that is a possibility, but how do you explain the shaft being in the 11:28 Position?

[datzenmike]

Take a shot of the 11:28.

 

 

 

[nathan_454]

Here it is datsunmike - upon closeer inspection i might be off a tooth or two, what do you think?

 

 

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[nathan_454]

Looks like I am in hte 1:35 position instead. so this is probably my problem then huh. wow i feel like an idiot now

[datzenmike]

Don't sweat it. This is nothing and an easy fix. :lol:

 

 

Rotating it slightly counter clockwise will allow the #1 to be closer, yes.

[nathan_454]

im just pumped we, (you) figured it out, i was ready to call the scrapper earlier today lol

[datzenmike]

Now you can drive it there!!!!:lol:

[nathan_454]

LOL

[banzai510(hainz)]

well what was the proplem

Looked pretty close to me in the photos. Nothing thsat couldnt have been dialed out. wonder id a different pedastal was installed on the other matchbox.

always ck for valve lashe also if you have everything else spark,fuel ect...well you got it figured out it was EZ.

[nathan_454]

I havent re-timed the distributor shaft yet,

 

I set the valve lash while I was putting the engine together.

 

As soon as mess with it anymore I will let you know

[bananahamuck]

Im happy you figured it out yourself cause now its one more thing you will check the next time (( BUT)) like i told ya when you were picking up those headbolts if ya need help just come over and ask and i will roll over to yer house to see if i can help, on weekends all day and weekdays till 3:00 when kids start getting home. My kids play Xbox live so im internet-less when their out of school so PM-ing probably wont get to me either ..but i will PM you my phone # and just write it down..cause all i did this weekend was take all (,well alot ) of the useless crap and throw it outside of garage door.AND im always up for some shenanigans ,

 

And like i said,

 

 

[nathan_454]

Hey thanks alot, I don't know if i will look at it this week (that damn work thing). maybe ill spend the x-mas holiday under the hood of my datsun!

[wayno]

Does this engine run yet? It dawned on me today, you said you put the cam sprocket/gear on dowel #2, did you also time the chain to the #2 mark? It does make a differance if the numbers don't match, I always use #1 dowel and #1 mark cause thats the way it came I beleave. wayno

[datzenmike]

L20Bs came fom the factory on the #2. I think the L16s were on #1

[nathan_454]

yeah i did put the chain on #2 along with the dowel.... haven't gotten a chance to work on it this week been super busy with work, I will this weekend though, and I will let ya'll know as soon as she's running again.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Wayno

cam sprocket/gear on dowel #2, did you also time the chain to the #2 mark? It does make a differance if the numbers don't match, I always use #1 dowel and #1 ??????

 

what ever dowel mark you use the chain dimple on sprocket will be in about the 2 oclock position on the sprocket. Thats the one you use. How ever if one removes the head the brite cahink link will not usually be there once motor spins around a few times. then one uses the timming marks on crank and the cam mark dash on the cam tower behind the sprocket. this could be trial and error to get right when doing this.. that why you turn the crank CCW for a few inches then turn it clockwise again getting the slop out of the chain and dial up to Zero on crank then look at the cam sprocket timming and see if the V on the sprocket is lined up on the thrust plate.