Re-assembled engine wont run???? help?

[datzenmike]

#2 hole is a starting point. Chain stretch must be tested for and adjusted out if any.

 

Bring to TDC using the timing scale bolted to the timing cover and the notch in the back edge of the pulley...

Bring to TDC while turning in a clockwise direction ONLY and stop. If you go past it, back up well before and try again as many times as needed to get it right.

 

 

Look through the top hole in the cam sprocket. There is a small horizontal etch mark on the cam retaining plate just above the notch in the back of the sprocket....

 

 

.If the etch mark is to the right of the notch, the chain is stretched or the head was milled and it needs to be adjusted. Lock the chain with a wedge and move the sprocket to the next number ahead. Moving one number removes 4 degrees of 'slack'

 

A stretched chain makes the cam retarded. Late cam events (slightly late that is) favors high speed operation and lowers low RPM drive ability.

[620Reaper]

So i got it at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke.

 

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This is where the rotor points

 

 

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ANd this is with the cap on

 

 

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I have the distributor rotated as far CLOCKWISE as i can get it. it looks to me like i am not getting enough adj.... or my distributor shaft is off? am i on the right track?

 

To be honest with you.... To me it looks like your firing order is wrong... I believe the numbers are in order but in the wrong spot.. where your 2 is put your 1 and go from there. Have my favorite website for you if you need any type of specs:D http://www.olddatsuns.com/620specs.htm I hope that this might be to some use to you;)

[620Reaper]

Sorry correction... Your right... maybe this will help :D http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech2.htm#FO

[wayno]

L20Bs came fom the factory on the #2. I think the L16s were on #1

 

It's been so long since I messed with the timing chain, I think your right datzenmike, I was going by that L16 from back in the 90s, any more I just jam the chain make a mental note what dowel it's on and ziptie the cam sprocket to the chain and then remove the head I think, it gets ziptied somewhere in there, maybe I magic marker the chain and sprocket then ziptie it after the head is off. I never knew about the etch mark though, good information.:thumbup: This Oic. is of a tight chain, correct? The etch mark is to the left.

Hainz, a long time ago it drove me nuts that the discoloered link never matched, so one day I set it up correctly and started turning the engine over, I figured out that you turn the engine over 12 complete revolutions and it matches/lines up again, at least I think it was 12.:unsure:

[banzai510(hainz)]

It look OK to me. Should work

 

Wayno

The taiwan chains dont even have brite liks so you just haqve to line up the mark and ck them befoe final tightening

[DatLuv]

I'm in the same boat as the OP. Almost identical conditions except for points instead of EI.

 

 

I'm positive I set the engine/cam timing right and was under the assumption I had just put the oil pump shaft in wrong... Well I took the bolts out of the dizzy so I could turn it 360* and have someone turn over the motor and find the sweet spot that it belongs. It only fired (sputtered) in the region it should have (apparently meaning I have the ignition timing set right)... I put on a new chain but the guides and plunger were worn so I still advanced the cam sprocket to the next number bringing the grove closer to the dowel. Oh and compression test indicated nothing under 140psi, all raising pretty rapidly as they should.

 

 

 

I'm lost haha. These engines are so idiot proof I feel like I should just give up.

[banzai510(hainz)]

is motor mechnically timmed? ck the timming marks at TDC

Now is it electrically timed. ck the rotor position and its 1 3 4 2 counter clock wise fire order.

 

Now ck for spark. pull the center coil wire and place near the chassis. try to start the car. if sparks then its OK. If dont spark its the points, or the EI distributor oe mabe you wired it wrong or no power. ect

 

alway ck the valve lash.

 

 

Make sure the carb is getting gas by looking inside the carb and cycle the linkage to see gas squirt in the main barrel. If gas is squirting in there you knowthe fuel pump is working and gas is at least making it iside the carb. and it should fire

 

 

datluv

I put on a new chain but the guides and plunger were worn ?????????

Bad move ,if anything replace the slack side guide and plunger

But if timmed it should still start.

also you rotated the dizzy to where it was trying to start. you got to remember when the points open that when it should fire. once tyou get past a certain point it might go to the next plug wire the spark.

just watch the vid and ck it over again.

 

 

PS coils just dont bad.

one way to ck is put key ON leave the +wire wire on coil

remove all the neg wire on coil.

make a wire with a lug to plug to the - side coil. Now the other ened will be bare wire.

Take the center coil wire comming out from coil. place near ground.

take the bare wire from the - side coil and touch the chassis. when you do this the coil will charge up. when you relase the wire. the center coil should fire. if this happens coil is good.

[datzenmike]

So much has been discussed here on this that it can be very confusing what was done or not or even overlooked. Hainz is bang on with his post . It's something simple that was overlooked or assumed. These are idiot proof in that they can quickly be diagnosed and the problem at least identified if not fixed. Back to basics is needed here.

[nathan_454]

UPDATE: I just got it running (it was the distributor shaft) so it runs now.

 

but, the temp rose up to above 200 degrees sitting idling, i shut it off at 220, its cooling down now... this engine NEVER got above 180 degrees. what the hell could be causing it to heat up? I dont have any means of verifying what teh gauge is telling me. its a cheap gauge, but i hate to not believe it and cook it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

what you have it timed too? this could make it run hot.

 

I will assume you have water/anitfreeze in the rad and the rad was good before.

 

also since its a new motor it might run hot in the begining.Plus drive it so you have airflow across the motor.

[datzenmike]

Leave the cap off or loose. If not bubbling over at 220 then throw after market gauge away. If cap off temp can't go above boiling, less than 212F if above sea level.

 

Replace thermostat. They are cheap and not worth the time or new gasket to test, throw away get new one.

[dvboth]

thermastat in backwards?

[nathan_454]

what you have it timed too? this could make it run hot.

 

I will assume you have water/anitfreeze in the rad and the rad was good before.

 

also since its a new motor it might run hot in the begining.Plus drive it so you have airflow across the motor.

 

Its not a new engine, I just replaced the head gasket. thought i said that?

 

its timed to 12 degrees

 

lol yeah its full of coolant and before i replaced the headgasket it never got above 180

[nathan_454]

thermastat in backwards?

 

nope didnt disturb it just removed the whole housing

[nathan_454]

Leave the cap off or loose. If not bubbling over at 220 then throw after market gauge away. If cap off temp can't go above boiling, less than 212F if above sea level.

 

Replace thermostat. They are cheap and not worth the time or new gasket to test, throw away get new one.

 

I will try this tomorrow thanks mike!

[nathan_454]

got it , ended up being tming, runs great now and doesnt get above 190 thanks guys!