520 alternator

[boxboy]

I have some loose wiring in my alternator that causes my "alt" light to blink. I have a couple 25% off coupons at NAPA and thought I would check to see what a new alternator costs. They said $120! Is that what they go for? I saw RA had them for $60, but they are not in stock. I asked the guy at NAPA if they could just pop it open and fix the connections and he said "sure for $90 an hour, but when we're done you will have a $35 alternator." Is there a cheaper source for a quality alt, or do I have to find a wrecking yard part and gamble?

[banzai510(hainz)]

PM HRH on here.

he works at Napa I think.

 

I think a a 68 is close to the 70-72 models but they have different pin out connection on the early alternators. Kinda funky really. Some have a 4 pin plastic connector. I have a 4 pin converter harness but dont want to give it up.

standard is the T connector and just the postve from alt and the ground wire on the case

 

 

how about have your rebuilt then you dont have to worry about connections. most likely is the brushes

[DanielC]

I am going to confirm the opinion that if your alternator light is on a low rpms, but goes out when you rev the engine, it is probably just the alternator brushes worn out.

[boxboy]

No, actually the light is never on steadily. It simply starts to blink and speeds up and slows down with the idle. There is a little rubber grommet that holds the wiring in place in the alternator case, and mine is worn and cracked. When if shakes out of place, the blinking occurs. When I put it back as it should be, it stops.

 

I called a few places today and they all say that my alternator is NLA, but that they have the L16 alts for the '69 521's. $45 more or less. I can't imagine I can have mine rebuilt for the same or less. Who are the folks to ask in the Portland area. I am south of town some, so the closer the better. John's Auto Electric?

[izzo]

Clean the connectors, probably corroded. those little boot things are helpful but after 40+ years are useless when cracked and falling apart. after you clean well and install making sure connection is tight, spray a lil wd40 on there and should be good (if thats the problem)

[datzenmike]

The J13 motor used Hitachi and Mitsubishi 28 amp. alts. The L16 used two Hitachi made alts., a 33 and 35 amp. They 'look' like they will interchange.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Boxboy

a good alternator shop can fix this.

The key is what your wiring is like going to the alternator otherwise I think a 71 510 alternator would work.

 

all else I will repeat take it to a alternator shop.

 

finding a wrecking yard with a 68 truck is not going to happen

[boxboy]

I am sure they can fix it, but I am CHEAP! Your right about finding a wrecking yard too. Parts store guys tell me buying their new overpriced alt at $120-$140 is going to be cheaper than a repair. We'll see I guess. Thanks for the info. Mine is a Mitstubishi. I think the replacements are ACDelco.

[banzai510(hainz)]

brushes are a cheap fix if thats the proplem.

 

only other parts are the bearings and the bridge rectifier. They might want alot of that.30-50 dollars just for the bridge rectifier.

[wayno]

I think you get what you pay for, I just take my starters/alternators/ect. to companys that rebuild them when they are rare, if they quit working, I take them back and they fix them, I have only had one problem ever with a rebuilt one, and it was a reassembling issue, one bolt was backwards on a gear reduction type. wayno

[ariascarlos1990]

Just go Saturn. you wont be disappointed.