Screw it, I'm just going to tear it down.

[MikeRL411]

Time to check your local "40 thousand mile imported used Japanese engine" ads! If over 40,000, the Japanese rebuild them before export, and charge accordingly. You can spend much less for a used engine that the parts to rebuild what you have. In Japan, a 10 year old car or one with 60,000 kilometers on the odometer [considered very high mileage] can't be given away as my niece's husband in Tokyo found out to his chagrin.

[datsunaholic]

A little (like 20 years) late for the "40,000 mile import" engines with a L-series. They were somewhat plentiful in the 1980s, but they're all out of the market now. What get imported now are stuff from 1995-2005 Japanese models.

[Braden]

which is why you should rebuild it!!!!

[metalmonkey47]

which is why you should rebuild it!!!!

 

I priced all the stuff for the rebuild (just hard parts and NOT labor) and came down to just under $200. Also though about sending the cam for a re-grind. I'll also have to get some new paint and paint the engine bay while it's all out.

[datsunaholic]

I think I spent around $300 to do a "refresh" of a L16 back in 1992. That included having the block tanked, and head milled, which took most the money. But I re-used everything except rings, bearings, and gaskets (it only had 77,000 on it but had erupted in huge white steam clouds when the head gasket let go, then got driven home enough to likely warp things). I was 18 and did the work with nothing but a Chilton's manual as a guide. Ran first try, and I put 30K on it the next 4 years. So it's certainly doable.

[NCRmtrsprts510]

why does that video look so cool?? like sweet angle and filter haha mind if i save it to my computer, might use it for something one day haha

 

IMO CA18.

[Braden]

yeah definitely paint the engine bay! use brass freeze plugs when you put new ones in, DO NOT PAY TO HAVE YOUR HEAD OR BLOCK MILLED, any honest machine shop will check your head and block mating surfaces and will tell you wether or not they are within spec!!! if they are within the allowed tolerances there is no reason to have either one of them milled, also if they do have to mill the head make sure they dont put it on some type of belt sander!!!!!!!!!!!!! most people say to go ahead and remove .002 worth of metal just to clean them up but if you dont need it then you dont need it simple as that. watch them and ask lots of questions, make sure that they know your not paying for shit they do unless its approved by you!!!!!! machine shops will screw you man you have to watch your back! dont let them charge you for hot tanking either as most machine shops do this before they do anything to the block anyways!!! if you say something about hot tanking they will tack 40$ on to your bill!!! you plan on replacing the clutch? if so drop off your flywheel when yo drop off your other stuff. good luck

[I'm BLUE]

I only use Brass Freeze plugs ^^^ Braden = 100% correct !!! replace all ,,, no skimping ( surprisingly some people do ! )

[metalmonkey47]

why does that video look so cool?? like sweet angle and filter haha mind if i save it to my computer, might use it for something one day haha

 

IMO CA18.

Sure, take the vid :)

 

 

I'd LOVE to have a CADET if I could find one. Trouble is, I can't afford one OR find one. Hell, I can't even find an L20 or L18 down here. All you dime guys hoarded them up YEARS ago!

yeah definitely paint the engine bay! use brass freeze plugs when you put new ones in, DO NOT PAY TO HAVE YOUR HEAD OR BLOCK MILLED, any honest machine shop will check your head and block mating surfaces and will tell you wether or not they are within spec!!! if they are within the allowed tolerances there is no reason to have either one of them milled, also if they do have to mill the head make sure they dont put it on some type of belt sander!!!!!!!!!!!!! most people say to go ahead and remove .002 worth of metal just to clean them up but if you dont need it then you dont need it simple as that. watch them and ask lots of questions, make sure that they know your not paying for shit they do unless its approved by you!!!!!! machine shops will screw you man you have to watch your back! dont let them charge you for hot tanking either as most machine shops do this before they do anything to the block anyways!!! if you say something about hot tanking they will tack 40$ on to your bill!!! you plan on replacing the clutch? if so drop off your flywheel when yo drop off your other stuff. good luck

Thanks for the advice! The heads already been checked, so I know it's fine. Not sure about the block, but I don't know why that wouldn't be flat.

The plan so far is to just finish it up as it, drive it until I can afford it. My dad and I are already planning on disassembling the block one day in a month or two and rebuilding it. Perhaps having the cam sent off for a re-grind? Who knows. Now it's just a matter of finding the right color for the engine bay :P

 

I only use Brass Freeze plugs ^^^ Braden = 100% correct !!! replace all ,,, no skimping ( surprisingly some people do ! )

Those things are sooooo cheap, why wouldn't I?? It's like a dollar or two a plug!

Edited November 17, 2010 by metalmonkey47

[Braden]

shoot when i bought my brass plugs for my build over the summer i just bought a box of 10 so i would have some extra, it was like 8 bucks! careful with the brass though they are super soft so make sure you get a socket that fits well to beat them in, also put loctite around the edge to seal them up good. as for the engine bay i just did mine in machine grey by duplicolor. its neutral and it looks pretty good, of course i just did this temporary untill i can do a body off frame resto/ paintjob

[Braden]

so is the engine in your car an l series?

[metalmonkey47]

so is the engine in your car an l series?

 

Nah. It's the A15. I want the L series since I only need a few minor things to get it in and driving.

[Mini-L320]

Nah. It's the A15. I want the L series since I only need a few minor things to get it in and driving.

 

Yeah you and me both are in the same page. I have a Built L18 with a busted dogleg 5 speed :angry: , thats the only thing holding me back from throwing the L into the 210. And When I do I will rebuilt the A15.

[metalmonkey47]

Yeah you and me both are in the same page. I have a Built L18 with a busted dogleg 5 speed :angry: , thats the only thing holding me back from throwing the L into the 210. And When I do I will rebuilt the A15.

 

Trannys are cheap!! Go get another and do the swap NAO.

 

 

 

 

On to the real purpose of the post, I pulled my plugs to open the gap after installing the CDI box, and found that the plug on cylinder 3 is clean as a whistle and dry. it also is smoking less now after driving it a bit. Compression is up now so the rings free. All other are still leaky, but the one loose is good news! I may not end up tearing it out after all!