How Do I Install a Turbo in my SSS Engine?

[BayAreaDimer]

I know it can be done, i just dont know where to get the parts nor how i should get started, any suggestions?

[matwood]

lots of fab work unless you can find an old TurboTom manifold or something similar.

[philcas1987]

Ka swap!

[The Dat-side]

Ka swap!

Damn Phil, Do you think everyone needs a KA or do you have a bunch of engines you're trying to get rid of. You know, my car is parked for 10 hours while I'm at work. I bet you could have it done by the time I get off.

[nismo dr]

aren't true SSS engine's high compression?

[datzenmike]

Blow through? Suck through? Do you plan to use an inter cooler? Back in the day there were a couple of kits but they were terible. You still had to weld them up. There were no BOVs and exhaust back pressure was used to control boost.... how nuts was that??? That was the 70s and we've come a long way since then I hope. You would be best off making your own set up. Make the intake and exhaust.

[BayAreaDimer]

i want to keep an L series in my car, i was going to swap a Z32 motor in there but engine swaps are just too time consuming,

 

 

I thought a blow through carb. intake mods and cooling system was all i needed, am i wrong?

[Nismoron]

Good bit more to it than that. You are going to have to find some way to control fuel under boost. I tink the biggest problem is going to be adding boost to that high compression SSS motor. High compression + boost + not perfect fuel delivery = BOOM!!! I would REALLY consider fuel injection and a low compression motor before adding boost of ANY kind. If you want to keep the carbed L, then I would spray it, if you want more HP.

[datzenmike]

A low compression motor will be a pig to drive when not on boost. A higher compression will have a bit more snap and will spool the turbo quicker. Even without a turbo, a higher compression motor will ping more, a turbo just makes it worse sooner and faster.

 

SSS 1600??? You have the 219 head, flattops and twin SUs???

[sinner720st]

from my research to get the fuel correct you need to plumb a pressure port from your intake before the carb to the float bowl, need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator refrenced to boost and starts at three PSI... you have to modify the carb a bit, seal the throttle plate shaft and very good tuning on the main jets, air jets, accel pump, and all other jets, the only thing stopping me from doing it is money and a shop

[DISLEXICDIME]

from my research to get the fuel correct you need to plumb a pressure port from your intake before the carb to the float bowl, need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator refrenced to boost and starts at three PSI... you have to modify the carb a bit, seal the throttle plate shaft and very good tuning on the main jets, air jets, accel pump, and all other jets, the only thing stopping me from doing it is money and a shop

 

rob just use a su instead of a normal carb. and remember every pound of boost you have to raise the fuel pressure one pound. if you do use a normal carb just put the carb in a air tight box and put floats that will not get crushed under boost. i need a z18 manifold so i can boost my 720

[sinner720st]

if you boost your 720 i will have to boost mine... i only know a little about su carbs, what makes them better for boost

 

 

oh ya... you dont need z18, just make yar own

[BayAreaDimer]

A low compression motor will be a pig to drive when not on boost. A higher compression will have a bit more snap and will spool the turbo quicker. Even without a turbo, a higher compression motor will ping more, a turbo just makes it worse sooner and faster.

 

SSS 1600??? You have the 219 head, flattops and twin SUs???

 

 

Yeah, i have all that actully, i was thinking about going with the roundtop SU's maybe, I heard those work better

[Icehouse]

i want to keep an L series in my car, i was going to swap a Z32 motor in there but engine swaps are just too time consuming

 

A z32 swap maybe (not a good engine choice of for a 510 IMO) but a KA swap is much easier and less time consuming than a turbo L series. There is a good deal of fabrication involved with a turbo L series, especially if you want EFI. Worth it in the end but nothing is easy. Well except maybe for leaving it alone :)

[Laecaon]

A z32 swap maybe (not a good engine choice of for a 510 IMO) but a KA swap is much easier and less time consuming than a turbo L series. There is a good deal of fabrication involved with a turbo L series, especially if you want EFI. Worth it in the end but nothing is easy. Well except maybe for leaving it alone :)

 

These are the words of someone who has done turbo L series.

 

Here is the build http://community.ratsun.net/topic/4574-daves-datsun-510/

[datzenmike]

.... i was thinking about going with the roundtop SU's maybe, I heard those work better

 

 

You are thinking of the flattops for the Zcar. They were heavily smogged and were near impossible to 'get right'. These were done to force the 240/260 emissions into accordance with the tough new laws and it just didn't work so well. The flattops on the 4 cylinder are totally different and were not made for North America or with our emissions in mind. There is a small air valve that needs plugging but very simple to do.

[BayAreaDimer]

You are thinking of the flattops for the Zcar. They were heavily smogged and were near impossible to 'get right'. These were done to force the 240/260 emissions into accordance with the tough new laws and it just didn't work so well. The flattops on the 4 cylinder are totally different and were not made for North America or with our emissions in mind. There is a small air valve that needs plugging but very simple to do.

 

 

which air valve is that? i'd like to double check to make sure im doing mine right

[datzenmike]

From The Hitachi S U Tech Pages: http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/tunacan.html

 

QUOTE:

Flat-Top SU Carburetor Home

 

 

Desmogging Topical information provided by Jason Gray As I said at the top of this page, the flat-top SUs were imported carbs bolted to imported L18SSS motors. If your set of flat-tops have ever been run in the States, they probably have had the smog equipment fittings removed already. If this is the case you'll find a small, triangular aluminum plate screwed in place just behind each dome/tuna can. If so, then your flat-top SUs are desmogged and are the functional equivalent of dome-top carbs. They're just a little more art-deco in style.

 

However, if you find a triangular plate with hose connections/pipes pointing upward, then your carbs have not yet been desmogged. (a third alternative is that you have nothing covering the holes in the SU bases, in which case just follow along) A third piece of smog equipment is the hose connection/nipple screwed into the balancing tube in the middle of the manifold. Refer to the Nissan Motorsports Schematic diagrams of the SSS SUs to visually see what needs to go.

 

The only hose connection you need for the carbs to perform properly is the distributor vaccum advance that is pipped off the front carb. (Look on the float-bowl side of the front carb and there will be a small vacuum port. Connect this to your distributor when you bolt the carbs onto the motor.) The hose connections were connected to various devices in order to control emissions. Remember when you had to run hoses and backfire valves around your engine compartment every smog check? Well, same sort of deal.

 

Desmog I:

 

• Remove the triangular plate with the hose connections from each carb body. There are three screws that attach each plate.
• Use some thin (1/8" is fine) aluminum (aluminum is easiest to work with, you could use steel if that's what you have handy) to make block-off plates. Use the triangular pieces you removed as templates for your new parts.
• Cut out the aluminum plates. Drill holes to match (again using the pieces removed as templates).
• One of the screws on each carb body will protrude into the airflow if you use thin plate material. You can cut down two screws (measure twice, cut once) to use in those positions.
• Using gasket paper, cut out two gaskets for your new block-off plates. The last thing you need is a vacuum leak.
• Apply some Permatex/gasket goo to both sides of the gaskets you just made and set them in place on the SU carb bodies.
• Place your block-off plates on top and screw them down.
• Locate the extra hose connection located on the balance tube in the middle of the manifold. Find a bolt with the same thread pitch and thread it in place of the nipple. Alternatively you can cut off the nipple section of the part and fill in the hole with JB Weld, or the like.

Desmog II:

 

• Another method to blocking off the emissions passageways is to fill the holes with JB Weld. You'll want to seal the carb bore with tape so the epoxy doesn't drip inside and get in the way of the throttle plate. After it is dry, sand away any protruding mess on the top of the carbs.

 

NOTE: You'll want to leave the PCV valve hooked up to your crankcase and manifold. It doesn't cost you any power to run this and it does help with emissions. In addition the needles are calibrated to run with the extra air from the PCV valve, so if you remove it you might have a bit of a mixture imbalance.

 

Good luck, and go at it. END QUOTE

 

_______________________________________________________________________

 

I have a set (unsmogged) but are good for pictures. On each carb is a triangle shaped thing with three screws. You can only see two screws on the left carb below...

 

 

 

On the right one you can see one screw to the right of the red plastic cap, and the other two to the left.

 

.

[tursup]

A low compression motor will be a pig to drive when not on boost. A higher compression will have a bit more snap and will spool the turbo quicker. Even without a turbo, a higher compression motor will ping more, a turbo just makes it worse sooner and faster.

 

SSS 1600??? You have the 219 head, flattops and twin SUs???

 

I used to have a 74 Datsun truck (L18 engine) that I installed a trubo kit from Crown something. I blew up the engine (no blow-off valve back then), but it was a blast to drive. It didn't have much turbo lag and it would simply launch. It was a turbo kit on a stock motor (not a hig-compression SS). I currently have three turbo cars and they are all low compression (8.2 - 8.5).

 

Back then kits were crude and there were no electronics. Today's cars dance around engine pre-ignition (knocking) by retarding ignition and or dumping fuel; they are always pushing the limit.

 

Oh, by the way, the engine died from piston ring failure. Probably pre-ignition in the cylinder.

[JUC'D510]

Hey whats up guys this tread cought my eye i have a couple pics of old 4 cylinder L series turbo engines 2 different set ups one is made by Crown manufacture and the other one is made by Cartech. I took these pics a long time ago at a annual datsun meet in oceanside,ca at the nissan dealership.(needless to say the annual meet was canceled also a long time ago).

 

 

 

[tursup]

I know it can be done, i just dont know where to get the parts nor how i should get started, any suggestions?

They apparently still sell turbo kits for the 510:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-510-ALL-YEAR-T3-T4-TURBO-CHARGER-TURBO-KIT-/250534220241?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5500d1d1

You will need a exhaust mainfold and downpipe. A good muffler shop should be able to fabricate these. One in Oakland did years ago.

 

You will need to put in lower compression pistons. Some of my MR2 friends have used thicker head gaskets.

 

When I installed a turbo kit years ago on a 74 Datsun pickip, air was drawn through the carb. It worked fine.

[JUC'D510]

Hey whats up guys this tread cought my eye i have a couple pics of old 4 cylinder L series turbo engines 2 different set ups one is made by Crown manufacture and the other one is made by Cartech. I took these pics a long time ago at a annual datsun meet in oceanside,ca at the nissan dealership.(needless to say the annual meet was canceled also a long time ago).

 

 

 

 

These kit are made for the L series engine they are desent the ebay ones are crap dont waste you time or money

 

They apparently still sell turbo kits for the 510:

 

<A class=bbc_url title="External link" href="http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item3a5500d1d1" rel="nofollow external">http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item3a5500d1d1

 

You will need a exhaust mainfold and downpipe. A good muffler shop should be able to fabricate these. One in Oakland did years ago.

 

You will need to put in lower compression pistons. Some of my MR2 friends have used thicker head gaskets.

 

When I installed a turbo kit years ago on a 74 Datsun pickip, air was drawn through the carb. It worked fine.

[nismo dr]

They apparently still sell turbo kits for the 510:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-510-ALL-YEAR-T3-T4-TURBO-CHARGER-TURBO-KIT-/250534220241?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5500d1d1

 

 

those are generic/crap kits for any/every car

[INDY510]

those are generic/crap kits for any/every car

 

But if you pay $299 more for the deluxe kit........ .. you get 4 more hose clamps for free!!!!!

[DISLEXICDIME]

But if you pay $299 more for the deluxe kit........ .. you get 4 more hose clamps for free!!!!!

 

and blown up motor for free 99 dealzzzzzzzzzzzzzz! :rolleyes: