datzenmike Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 That's clown shoes! Valves too tight? Iz gotz 60 in my bike tires. The gauge is faulty. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 Thats the highest. I used a gasket scraper and a razer blade on the gasket surface of the block. Then used some 220 grit and 800 grit sandpaper to remove the bits and smooth the surface. That gauge has GOT to be bad, because it was running great and started better then before. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 There might be a leak in the guage or fittings.... atleast they're all similar readings. . . . . :unsure: Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 There might be a leak in the guage or fittings.... atleast they're all similar readings. . . . . :unsure: Yeah I think it's a leak around a fitting. I'm gonna use some of that tape you put on air tools around the fittings(forgot what to call it) everywhere that it has a fitting, then try again. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Teflon tape ;) or threadlock :unsure: :P Is it an old gauge ? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Teflon tape ;) or threadlock :unsure: :P Is it an old gauge ? TEFLON! That's it. Nah, pretty new rental tool from Autozone Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 rental tools usually get "abused" :unsure: Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted September 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 (edited) rental tools usually get "abused" :unsure: Took it back today and got a BRAND new one right off the shelf Cuz I'm a ninja like that. However I don't think it's necessary. Although I'll retest before I pull the head. On close inspection I found that I had oil running oil around the head between cylinder 3 and 4 right around the area of the push rod valley.. Oics tomorrow maybe? I'm gonna re-check the torque on the head, then if all else fails pull it and check for the problem. Ordering a head gasket later. Anyone got an opinion on Beck/Arnley and RockAuto brand gaskets? Don't wanna go cheap here if they're gonna be a problem Edited September 29, 2010 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted September 29, 2010 Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 Cool MM47 ! Glad to hear your back on her :D I get paranoid about the sealing surfaces being "super clean and grease/oil free" as well as gasket ! ---> Make sure your Torque wrench is good <--- you can test 2 torque wrenches together or test same torqued bolt with 2 of them ! ( I have had 2 clicker 1/2" wrenches fall apart literally on me ,,, scary thing is it is hard to know when they are not within proper calibration :unsure: ,,, I now use and old school "beam" crafstman torque wrench :cool: ( where I can ) Another thing to keep in mind ,,, is head bolts stretch ! yes this can cause sealing problems as well,,, I have re-used them many a time without much problems ! To avoid threads rusting to craps/breaking ,,, I use the ARP "Head Bolt Thread Sealer" ( high temperature/quality teflon tape in a tube ) stuff works wonders !!! Beck/Arnley Gaskets are very good to use , Fel-Pro "Perma-Torque" head gaskets are good as well ( now-a-days these types are designed for "No-Re-Torque" :D ) ,,, I really like the Ishino Brand as well for my nice stuff ! ( I generally do not like Rock-Products :unsure: ) Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 here we go... pulled the head. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 Bump for new info. ADVICE? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted October 20, 2010 Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 clean everything and check the block/head w/a straight edge. until you pull the pistons out, you wont know the condition of the rings... but new bearings were on the rebuild anyways... right??? :unsure: my GF was hiding in a tree today Cuz I'm a ninja like that. i wouldnt turn your back on your GF if i were you! :ninja: Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 clean everything and check the block/head w/a straight edge. until you pull the pistons out, you wont know the condition of the rings... but new bearings were on the rebuild anyways... right??? :unsure: i wouldnt turn your back on your GF if i were you! :ninja: At this point, I don't think it's the rings. The head gasket didn't seal hardly at all. DTP has convinced me to go for new head bolts. BTW, I'm not as dumb as she thinks I am ;) I know her secrets. lol Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 WIPE THE DECK before bolting the head on. You must get the block deck and head surface oil-free for maximum sealing life. Also chase the threads, get them relatively clean. Do NOT put oil on the head bolt threads. !!! After changing the gasket it will smoke for about 15 minutes. This is normal due to getting oil all over everything. Did you overfill? A15 only takes 3.5 gallons of oil. Don't trust the dipstick. Is the block vented? Is the head vented? Both are required. Otherwise it burns oil. The stock setup is the PCV system for block and tube to air cleaner for head. If you can feel the ridge on an A-series with your fingernail it is worn out. Normally you can't feel the ridge on a 100K A-series. They are tough engines. If you can barely feel it with your fingertips that is OK. Did you use a Fel-Pro Presto-Seal gasket that could be the problem. Use a Nissan gasket and she'll be right. B/A has good stuff too. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 WIPE THE DECK before bolting the head on. You must get the block deck and head surface oil-free for maximum sealing life. Also chase the threads, get them relatively clean. Do NOT put oil on the head bolt threads. !!! After changing the gasket it will smoke for about 15 minutes. This is normal due to getting oil all over everything. Did you overfill? A15 only takes 3.5 gallons of oil. Don't trust the dipstick. Is the block vented? Is the head vented? Both are required. Otherwise it burns oil. The stock setup is the PCV system for block and tube to air cleaner for head. If you can feel the ridge on an A-series with your fingernail it is worn out. Normally you can't feel the ridge on a 100K A-series. They are tough engines. If you can barely feel it with your fingertips that is OK. Did you use a Fel-Pro Presto-Seal gasket that could be the problem. Use a Nissan gasket and she'll be right. B/A has good stuff too. I'm assuming the block is vented, since I didn't screw with any of that. Where is the factory vent at? It may have been slightly overful, however, there was water AND oil, so I can only assume it wasn't sealing. Which I can see after my compression test that it wasn't. 50PSI is WAY too low. Theres a slight ridge, however I'm not too concerned because it is very tiny. I ordered new headbolts from Nissan today and have a B/A head gasket ready to go back on when I get the new bolts Friday. I also have some of that Copper Spray-A-Gasket stuff DTP recommended. When I ordered the headbolts (coincidentally happened to be a Ratsun member working there) , Nissan's system showed two different size head bolts. 9 of one size, and one of another. I hadn't noticed this before, so perhaps I had the bolts in the wrong place? Do you know anything of this? Perhaps have a chart on the location of the one odd bolt? Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 WIPE THE DECK before bolting the head on. You must get the block deck and head surface oil-free for maximum sealing life. Also chase the threads, get them relatively clean. Do NOT put oil on the head bolt threads. !!! After changing the gasket it will smoke for about 15 minutes. This is normal due to getting oil all over everything. Did you overfill? A15 only takes 3.5 gallons of oil. Don't trust the dipstick. Is the block vented? Is the head vented? Both are required. Otherwise it burns oil. The stock setup is the PCV system for block and tube to air cleaner for head. If you can feel the ridge on an A-series with your fingernail it is worn out. Normally you can't feel the ridge on a 100K A-series. They are tough engines. If you can barely feel it with your fingertips that is OK. Did you use a Fel-Pro Presto-Seal gasket that could be the problem. Use a Nissan gasket and she'll be right. B/A has good stuff too. 3.5 gallons huh? lol sorry just had to point that out for ya.... Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 damnit! ya beat me to it! was gonna say, 3.5 gallons would make that a bigger cube diesel. :D also, not to hijack this thread, but my Passat is doing the same thing. burning oil BAD.... head was redone last summer (09). Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 OK, 3.5 liters. Still getting used to the canadian metric measurements. The single long head bolt goes in the middle. The oil pressure feed to the rocker shaft is in that hole. Quote Link to comment
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