Valve seal replacement?

[metalmonkey47]

I'm having some trouble :(

 

I got off my old valve seals and got the new ones in the mail today. The old ones were a PAIN IN THE ASS to get off in the first place, and now I can't get the new ones to slip on. Is there a trick to this that I'm just missing out on? Or some way to make it easier?

[Skib]

did you search? ;)

 

 

I have a thread on it in the "how to" section

[metalmonkey47]

Yeah I saw that some time ago and forgot it was there:(

 

I'll try the socket idea Although, mine look a good bit smaller then yours.

[metalmonkey47]

Arg the socket didn't work.

 

Pics posted with why in a sec.

[metalmonkey47]

This is my new valve seal.

 

 

Putting a socket on it only squishes out the rubber and pushes that little spring pressed inside the seal, out. Kinda don't wanna fuck that up.

 

Turned an old valve seal upside down on it and used the socket to try and press but the more force I put on it, the more it deformed the rubber. I put assembly grease on the inside of the seal hoping it would slip down over, but to no avail.

 

[Skib]

theres somthin wrong then, cuz it should go on just as easily as it does in the video

[metalmonkey47]

Hmmm, but this is simple. I mean, what could be wrong? I made measurements and they are completely identical to the ones that were on the head before.

[Braden]

you fucked up bro!!! dude if you have tried to put these valve stem seals on without using the instalment sleeve then you have probably scored a cut in the rubber and have started their premature failure. to install the stem seals you must intsall the valve into the head then you must put the two small washers on the head that keep the bottom of the valve spring from wearing the aluminum, then you slip the plastic sleeve over the valve stem. after the installing sleve is on you must lube up the area where you will be installing the seal, slide the seal down the stem using only your fingers, a small amount of force may be required to push the seal down so that the locking band can squeeze the seal tight. presto your done!!!! it sounds to me like your stuff is really dirty or not lubed up enough! to remove old valve stem seals simply pull them off with some needle nose pliers. its super simple man. are the pics above your pics?

[Braden]

you would be better off buying a new set, the fel pro set comes with the plastic sleeves, you really really really need to clean up your head, what type of head is that????? my head had two different seats for the valve springs. a higher one for the inner and a lower for the outer.the flat washers had to be installed before the seal. you need to put the valves in befor you put the seal on so the valve stem will helpo guide the seal down!!!!! where are the steel washers ????

[Creepy Cruiser]

x2 On the fel pro installation sleeves (they rock!). One thing to keep in mind too, if you're using the sleeves, you have to step up to a bigger socket or you can damage the springs.

 

Also metalmonkey47, the socket actually goes over the spring and rests on the metal lip not the rubber.

[izzo]

Sawzall would take care of that.

[metalmonkey47]

On the installment sleeve, I did have it on ;) I removed it for the picture because my camera wasn't focusing in macro mode with the light reflecting on the thin plastic.

 

 

Also the steel washers are in place and never were removed.

I rubbed plenty of lube around inside the seat and the seal, which is why I'm here. That didn't work which concerns me.

 

 

I see what I did wrong with the socket now though, so it's a good thing I didn't apply much pressure. I don't feel like waiting for Rock Auto to ship another set of seals

Edited September 11, 2010 by metalmonkey47

[ggzilla]

Man I hate those seals.

[metalmonkey47]

Man I hate those seals.

 

You replaced some with trouble too? I'm hoping it's not just me.

[ggzilla]

Also the lip seals don't last as long as the newer Datsun umbrella design. But they do control the oil a bit better while the valve guides are still fresh.

 

They should just tap onto the guide (lightly tapping with plastic hammer). Perhaps your head has replacment guides that are oversize. Measure your guides:

 

A12A/A14/A15 valve guide

* Outer diameter STD: 0.4737 - 0.4742"

* Outer diameter Oversize: 0.4818 - 0.4820"

 

Nissan had a tool for tapping the seals down, but socket works good as long as you don't hammer too hard. The Nissan tool prevented it from going down too far.

[Braden]

hmm, something just doesnt seem kosher, something is the wrong size, i havent ever had this much trouble, even with putting the valve springs back on it shouldnt take more than about 2 hours. the first time i did it i used a shitty valve spring compressor and still didnt have as much trouble. i hope you get it figured out, im sure its something simple. but on a serious note, if you have the head off of the engine (or even if you dont) you should really really really clean it up alot more, even if you used a couple of cans of brake clean and an air compressor, i see alot of tiny particles on there and can you imagine what that is going to do to your main and rod bearings? heck some of them look big enough to score the cylinder walls. good luck man

[datzenmike]

.... you should really really really clean it up alot more, even if you used a couple of cans of brake clean and an air compressor, i see alot of tiny particles on there and can you imagine what that is going to do to your main and rod bearings? heck some of them look big enough to score the cylinder walls. good luck man

 

The Fram will catch that.

[Braden]

shit i didnt realize you were working on an a15!!! anybody know if you can use l20 stem seals instead????? fel pro number ss27149???

[Braden]

The Fram will catch that.

mike you knwo as well as i do that one of those little particles will tear a hole in a fram filters pleats!!! it would be like a bird into a jet engine.

[metalmonkey47]

They're on

 

Yeah, hadn't realized until you mentioned that I left out the fact that it's an A15. My dad called me while I was at work to tell me that he tapped them on with a socket (skibs ideaz) and a plastic mallet.

 

I used a can and a half of gumout carb choke cleaner and some degreasers to get that crap out. Head is now smooth and engine is re-assembled. All I gotta do is change the oil and filter, then hook a few things up and she'll be running and ready for me to run as a daily driver. I'm SUPER excited!

[Braden]

sweet deal mna, im glad it worked out for you!!! you should post up a vid of first startup!!

[I'm BLUE]

The Fram will catch that.

:rofl:^^^ hahahaha ,,, then again Fram's like the angry girlfriend " No means No ! " so nothing's getting through ! :huh:... :P

[dimedriver]

Fel-Pro part number is SS72686 From some ford V6

They are $20 for a set that will do a L6

Rockauto has them for $17

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/25807-improved-l6-valve-stem-seals/

 

They are a tight fit but should work way better than stock.

 

Those old push rod motors use 8mm valve stems too. It was common to use the old push rod seals because they were short so they could clear high lift cams.

 

 

-Dime

[metalmonkey47]

Fel-Pro part number is SS72686 From some ford V6

They are $20 for a set that will do a L6

Rockauto has them for $17

http://forums.hybrid...lve-stem-seals/

 

They are a tight fit but should work way better than stock.

 

Those old push rod motors use 8mm valve stems too. It was common to use the old push rod seals because they were short so they could clear high lift cams.

 

 

-Dime

 

Guess thats what I'm using next time I rebuild :P

[metalmonkey47]

sweet deal mna, im glad it worked out for you!!! you should post up a vid of first startup!!

 

Oops! lost track of this thread.

 

Here you go!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcqSbJlfn44