So, I've got this idea....

[Ironhide]

So, in my 521 the old alternator went to crap. I had it checked at Autozone by one of their machines that tests alternators. And the new one didn't work after installing it. After checking the wiring diagram from the original owners manual, and following wires I came to the conclusion that the voltage regulator was bad. After unbolting it from the engine compartment and grinding the rivets away, i found that it was, indeed, burnt out (a resistor had blown). So I ordered a new regulator and I'll have it in two days.

 

But all this got me thinking...

Do I really need the voltage regulator? My truck still runs without it. All the accessories work properly. But, unfortunately, with the way it's currently wired, the battery wont be charged by the alternator without it.

 

This led me to researching about alternators, which led to the differences between one- and three-wire alternators. After some investigation, I came across schematics for the internal wiring. I already knew that alternators rectified three-phase AC into DC to charge the battery; I just didn't know how the rest of it worked. So, after learning all these things I come to you guys. If I changed the setup of the alternator to work without the voltage regulator, say by wiring the exciter wire to a relay attached to a button in the cab and got rid of the voltage regulator would I be better off? Or, Is there something I'm missing in the bigger picture?

[Skib]

put in an alt with an internal regulator, no regulator, higher output, call it a day

 

 

or just replace the regulator, dont always have to fix whats not broken

[datzenmike]

Of course you truck will run fine without a voltage regulator because it is running on the reserve stored in the battery. Very quickly that will begin to run out and the lights will dim, the wiper move slower and the heater fan will blow less air.

 

If you wire the alternator directly there will be no charge control whatever. Alternator output increases with speed.so very quickly the output will rise above the ability of the accessories to handle and the lights will blow out. Anything with solid state transistors like a radio will burn out. Heater and wiper motors will speed up and overheat. All this and the battery may explode from the overcharging. Wiring designed to carry 12 volt loads may fry if the fuses don't blow out first.

 

If you want to get rid of the external regulator replace the alternator with an internally regulated one.

[Skib]

Of course you truck will run fine without a voltage regulator because it is running on the reserve stored in the battery. Very quickly that will begin to run out and the lights will dim, the wiper move slower and the heater fan will blow less air.

 

If you wire the alternator directly there will be no charge control whatever. Alternator output increases with speed.so very quickly the output will rise above the ability of the accessories to handle and the lights will blow out. Anything with solid state transistors like a radio will burn out. Heater and wiper motors will speed up and overheat. All this and the battery may explode from the overcharging. Wiring designed to carry 12 volt loads may fry if the fuses don't blow out first.

 

If you want to get rid of the external regulator replace the alternator with an internally regulated one.

 

 

we had a car at work today that got a 24v jump starter from a semi jumper...

 

... fried everything, ECU, heater computer, ABS computer, airbag computers, stereo, ect. ect.

right down to the break lights :o

[Javin]

we had a car at work today that got a 24v jump starter from a semi jumper...

 

... fried everything, ECU, heater computer, ABS computer, airbag computers, stereo, ect. ect.

right down to the break lights :o

 

SWEET! What's a repair like that cost?

[Skib]

SWEET! What's a repair like that cost?

 

 

didnt ask but there was a whole big box of rank ass toasted electrical bits

[Javin]

didnt ask but there was a whole big box of rank ass toasted electrical bits

 

oics or it didnt happen

[Skib]

oics or it didnt happen

 

 

:rofl: :fu:

[datzenmike]

And that's only double, actually only 6-8 volts more. No telling what an un-regulated alt. will put out when spinning up through the gears. Take a look at the pulley, its 2-3 turn to one at the crank.

[nismo dr]

SWEET! What's a repair like that cost?

 

it came to $4,700 give or take

[Javin]

it came to $4,700 give or take

 

*note to self*....

[I'm BLUE]

we had a car at work today that got a 24v jump starter from a semi jumper...

 

... fried everything, ECU, heater computer, ABS computer, airbag computers, stereo, ect. ect.

right down to the break lights :o

:blink: :o :unsure: ...... :blink: :frantics:

[Skib]

it came to $4,700 give or take

 

 

fuuuuck.

[nismo dr]

We were looking online to see what those heavy duty commerical truck jump boxes actually push, if the 24 volt wasn't going to do some damage the 2400-3900 amps are definately going to clean house.

[Skib]

still convinced its a good idea? :lol:

[Pumpkn210]

So I have run my regulator as a switch like your saying and the biggest problems were that you gotta keep switching it on and off all the time. And like Mike said, the overcharging causes problems. I drove like that for 3 months and smoked 2 batteries, and some other misc wires. Bubbled the water right out of the batts and melted one of em. My vote is to change it too a internally regulated one. Its a good helpfull upgrade, and easy!

[hang_510]

Or, Is there something I'm missing in the bigger picture?

oics or it didnt happen

:console:

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Go to Kragen / Auto zone, tell them you need an internally regulated alternator for a 81 510, cost bout $75 & it puts out 60 amps. remove round plug that goes to voltage regulator, cut 2 wires off of that plug [sorry i forgot the wire colors] & run them down the the T plug on the back of the alternator. I did this swap on my 620.

[Skib]

the write up is on the dime quarterly. just plug it in as normal and you just cross 2 sets of wires at the old regulator plug.

[datzenmike]

Guys, don't forget that this is a 521 which is almost identical to the 620. I installed the same IR alt and there was clearance issues with the idler arm. True it was from a 720 but I used a 720 one on my 710 and other than the ER/IR it was identical in size. Just saying it may be a tight fit. The 620 alts were smaller but also only 35amp output.

[Skib]

oics or it didnt happen

 

 

[Javin]

that just makes me sad :( poor car. poor electronics. poor pocketbook...:(

[Ironhide]

Well guys thanks for all the input. I picked up the new voltage regulator today, and I'm gonna install it as soon as the sun starts to set. :sweat: It's pushing 110°F in the shade today.

 

After Reading everything you guys have said, I can see what the biggest problems are with what i was thinking.

1. I wouldn't want to overcharge the battery.

2. I wouldn't want to blow all my lights.

3. I wouldn't want to destroy my radio. I don't have one of those.

 

Solutions(?):

1. Add a battery cutoff switch to keep from overcharging.

2. Add 350 watt resistors in line with all my lights.

3. Build a 12volt regulator that can handle all the amps for the radio. Got off easy with that one.

 

As we can see, the cost in time out ways the time gained by my idea. BUT! The "Yeah, i did a totally custom wiring job on my ride. You've never seen anything like it." factor can weigh heavily on the beneficial side of the scale. What you really have to ask yourself is "Will it help me pull chicks?"

 

In conclusion, while the combination of cool, unique, and simple could make you or me decide to do this, you need to remember: be safe, ask for help, and never lick the battery cables.

[Javin]

but the cables taste like yumm

[Ironhide]

but the cables taste like yumm

 

So will everything else afterward. I cant even stand it when i get soup thats too hot and then can't taste anything for eight hours. :hmm: