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Any experience with sound dampening?


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My eyes are about to bleed from the intense amount of web searching I've been doing in the past 5 hours. I'm interested in doing some modification to attempt to make the cab of my truck a little quieter. my l20b has the tendency to sound a lot like a lawn mower, and I do have to talk loudly if i want the person sitting in the seat next to me to understand. I suspect a possible exhaust leak, it seems louder than it should be.... but regardless I want to try to take out most of the riding noises and so just how "luxury" i can manage to bring it. (on the cheap of course)

 

I've been looking into a roll of padded material to throw on the interior firewall and floor and basically everywhere in the cab. Some has layers, some doesn't...some is terribly expensive, some isn't. Also some sites mentioned the use of spray foam (ala "great stuff"), which would probably work pretty good, but that shit is so ridiculously sticky, it'll probably never come off of whatever it goes onto.

 

So.... has anyone here been down this road before? Seems like there's hundreds of options, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what's the best to try first. Dynamat? edead? lizardskin?

 

Also I'm aware that I have a bit mechanical issues to deal with too in the vibration department, but the main idea here is to take the mind off of "rattly pile of 31-year-old truck parts" and turn it more into "cool and nicely working vintage ride"...ya know? the rattles I'll eventually get rid of, but the engine noise is what I'm not sure about solving...

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I've used Dynamat on my 510 and didn't notice much of a difference...just a little. To be honest with you I will probably use it on my '75 620, though. Unless someone suggests a better product for about the same price.

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I was a two time IASCA regional champ many years ago.

 

Save yourself some money and use the roofing material found at lowes and homedepot. It works as well as dynamat, and use two to three layers of it on every surface. What you are hearing is sound resonating off of the panels. Since Datsuns used 22ga steel it resonates excessively so a little extra is needed.

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Check this thread out: Ratsun Sound Deadening Peal & seal worked great for me, I personally think that stuff is amazing and if you lay it just right its 100% waterproof and VERY Thermo resistant. Some pics here: Devil in a Blue Dress I used 'great stuff' in between some body panels and as a 'gap filler' worked great and really stops vibration. yes its gross, but once it dries you can sand/cut it like balsa wood or foam. I also ended up using some large thin foam sheeting wadded up to fill in my door and interior body panels and it works amazing! no more hollow sounds when you slam the door and the whole ride sounds 'solid' :cool:

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I have heard, that you should use three layers. Brand don't matter, but just use 3 layers...

 

3 layers if your looking to do SPL AKA "Boom Car" Less flex in the cars skin = more db's!

 

Oooops!! That explains it...I only used one

 

More layers stops vibration in the metal to a greater extent, but if you want to stop sound you need a bit more.

 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/18069-2nd-720/page__st__20

 

We did the cab of Elmers 720. Starts about halfway down the page. Made a HUGE difference!

 

Yes it did, but another thing is the sound deadening is a multi layer fix, you wanting to use carpet pad is the right idea. The peal and stick targets the vibration in metal, next is the sound barrier itself. I have a type of under carpet fiber padding in all areas as well and there will be 2 thin mylar layers between the floor and pad and pad and carpet, as soon as I collect a roll. Reason is not only water protection but it creates a "dead air space" between you and the noise.

 

If you are limited to the amount you can get, Inside the cab, target the firewall and floor and back wall first, then the doors. Use fiber based carpet pad or dense foam between the carpet and floor.

 

I got my power wire in and will be starting on the first layout of my sound system in the days to come. I dont do SPL anymore, I am more of a SQ now, but I can blame Dave Friesen (Big Bear Marketing and sound guru of the PacNW)for that! :D

 

The first thing you want to do is figure out what you are listening for. Fix the exhaust first. then start securing all loose rattles. Expanding foam helps but BE CAREFUL!! That shit will warp the panels and pop welds. go in and foam a little here and there, give it a couple of days to cure then repeat. I turned a Ford Festiva into a igloo cooler over a 3 week time span, then one layer of hushmat. I took one 12" vented Orion HCCA sub and a 200 watt Rockford Fosgate amp and hit 138DB just to prove a point to the boss of a store I worked for.

 

PM me anytime and I will help you the best I can. :thumbup:

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I was a two time IASCA regional champ many years ago.

 

Save yourself some money and use the roofing material found at lowes and homedepot. It works as well as dynamat, and use two to three layers of it on every surface. What you are hearing is sound resonating off of the panels. Since Datsuns used 22ga steel it resonates excessively so a little extra is needed.

 

I agree...

 

Back in 2000 or so I was sponsored by a stereo company and was given case after case of dynomat extreme. does it help? yes, but, I didn't notice much in the way of deadening the outside noises until after about layer 3. of course one layer will help with the basic obvious rattles but once you get the third layer in..it really helped. However, unless you are sponsored, or have tons of cash to burn, it's probably not going to get you to the level of quietness you may be looking for. there are other brands out there that are a little cheaper but work just as good. some are thicker, some are thinner, but it's all about layers either way...

 

About 2 years ago, I did the roofing material that lowes and home depot have on my 54 chevy pickup and it worked wonders!!! it's cheap, yeah, not as thick, but at the price, you can put layer after layer on it..but it is the SAME STUFF as Dynomat extreme...ok, there may be some slight chemical differences in the "monkey poo" that makes it stick, but it sticks just as good, even in the Arizona summer heat..no problems. Make sure you get the one with the aluminum backing as there is one with a plastic backing. I think that is more for indoor use or something. Also, make sure you get the air bubbles out. Adding a layer of under carpet padding is going to act as a sound barrier as prev mentioned as well.

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I picked this up at Lowes for $15 a rolls, works great!

 

Yeah. I couldn't really imagine doing 3 layers of it... Really kind of messy stuff. But I did one good layer and there's a definite difference. can talk in the car! But i also put a layer of fairly dense carpet padding beneath the carpet, which probably also helped :)

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I wouldn't use expanding foam at all, not only will it warp body panels it will also retain water like a sponge and rust your body panels from the inside out.

 

 

+1, expanding foam is shit and should not be used on cars, at all.

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I wouldn't use expanding foam at all, not only will it warp body panels it will also retain water like a sponge and rust your body panels from the inside out.

 

yep, if you rush and try spraying the whole can in one area, or if you spray it where you know water is present, I took 2 weeks and only used it in the main body not the doors, and I didnt block any drain holes.

 

+1, expanding foam is shit and should not be used on cars, at all.

 

Sorry, I would have to disagree, there is some spots you will get a ring, buzz, or pings that you just cant get to any other way.

 

 

The Fesiva had no leaks, so water was an non issue. But there are some spots where a golfball of foam in bad vibration areas will kill a buzzing panel faster and easier than 3 layers of deadener. And the foam blocks sound due to the closed cell design of the foam. But as with all methods, you have to use commomn sense, and take your time. :thumbup: I am about tempted to do it again but with the metro to prove a point again. I guess I know what my next How-to thread will be!!! ^_^

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I just did my car this weekend( three layers) and was surprised that the differance was so noticeable. oh yeah i just used the peel and seal window flashing stuff from home depot. total bill $ 45 for product, $100 for carpet from mario. car is better than new

 

Hey I just did the same thing, peel and seal from lowes two layers and a carpet kit from Mario 120$...hey wait 20 more? Must be for shipping :) Cant wait for it to arrive but its gonna be alot of work fitting it....gotta cut holes for nic nac custom shizzle

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I just did my car this weekend( three layers) and was surprised that the differance was so noticeable. oh yeah i just used the peel and seal window flashing stuff from home depot. total bill $ 45 for product, $100 for carpet from mario. car is better than new

Jesus, what all did you cover? I got one layer on my interior and i think I spent about 75 bucks on 5 rolls. To do 3 layers would be at least $225 or so. Did you just do under the dash?

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