67411sss Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 So i have this H20 forklift motor that i am thinking about installing in my roadster, the engine looks clean apart from what looks like a blown head gasket at some stage. I also have a G15 head off an spl310 that i would like to use. Here are some pics Now the H20 head And the G15 head And here are the combustion chambers H20 G15 The pistons are dished somewhat and i'm worried about keeping a compression ratio that will work. I haven't heard of anyone using this combo it's usually just the H20 crank that used to make a stoker motor. Any thoughts appreciated. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Have you CC'd them both? I doubt the cam is very performance oriented. Quote Link to comment
67411sss Posted April 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 I haven't cc'd them yet, i have driven an h20 roadster and it was quite peppy(more so than the R16) It's probably wishful thinking on my part that the G15 head will bolt on and work without doing much to it. Quote Link to comment
exit64 Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 I've got a spare R 16 head or two taking up space. You better come over and dig through the pile before the price of aluminum goes up. I wish I had that H20 block when I built the stroker instead of going with the U20 crank and all the fooling around getting that machined. Good score. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 If you use the G15 head and the G15 gasket on the H20 block the gasket will be squeezed down into the combustion chamber since it's from a smaller diameter piston engine. The pistons will hit the gasket and shred the steel lip. Not healthy. You'll know it's happening by the ticking sound when you first start up the engine. If you uss the H20 gasket you might have a small problem with pinging due to preignition from the sharp edge on the G15 head being inside the combustion chamber. I would personally use the H20 head. Since the cylinder and piston diameters are the same as the 1600 Type R engine, a 1600 roadster or RL411 gasket set should be just right. Your type H head looks exactly like my type R head. Quote Link to comment
FoxyRoadster Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 I think the R and H heads are the same just different CC's on them, I had been looking for one for a while to stick on my R to drop compression for supercharging. Quote Link to comment
shifty Posted April 11, 2010 Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 I'd go with an R-16 head and do a lot of work to make it flow. Mike did quite a bit for his stroker. Quote Link to comment
exit64 Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Yea, what Shifty said. About 12 hours of quality time with a dremel tool. Match the intake ports to the manifold and open up the exhaust side as much as you can. You can look at the stroker head for reference. Quote Link to comment
67411sss Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Well now that i have a shaved R16 head that might make it easier:D Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 I've also heard the H20 heads, while similar to the R16 heads, don't flow worth a damn. Don't know for sure, but why chance it, especially if Mike has extras? Yeah, Mike, I didn't want to bother with the U20 crank mods nor upset Gordon with the loss of another U20 crank. :rolleyes: Going with H20 crank, R16 rods, and H20 dished pistons. Shave head/deck block as necessary to maintain correct CR. Quote Link to comment
67411sss Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 So are you using an R16 block Pete? Quote Link to comment
dbrick Posted April 13, 2010 Report Share Posted April 13, 2010 Unless I'm mistaken, you will probably need a 1 inch spacer at the front of the crank, unless it wasn't a forklift motor. What front cover and balancer do you have? Quote Link to comment
67411sss Posted April 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 Unless I'm mistaken, you will probably need a 1 inch spacer at the front of the crank, unless it wasn't a forklift motor. What front cover and balancer do you have? Here is how the engine looks as i got it Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 Going with H20 crank, R16 rods, and H20 dished pistons. Shave head/deck block as necessary to maintain correct CR. So are you using an R16 block Pete? Yes, I have two later 5-main R16 blocks. Machine shop to determine which is better candidate. Also just learned I need to find H20/U20 rods if I want to use U20/H20 pistons, otherwise I'll need custom pistons with the longer R16 rods. Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 Here is how the engine looks as i got it Since you have it apart, can you measure the block height? Curious if it's taller than a R16. Probably not, but worth checking. Quote Link to comment
fairlady66 Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 I have the H20 in my Roadster. LOVE it! When I forst got it there was not much umph. I had to choice but to bring up the rear when on a run, everyone would pass me. Now that it is all dialed in with the Brisco IE Dizzy it has plenty of UMPH! now I hang with those up in the front. Quote Link to comment
datsun65 Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 I also had an H20 in my old roadster. It was a Japanese imported motor (purchased in the 80s) which was a common replacement for the R16/U20 motors. It had a set of RL411 Dual Carbs. It was a great runner with very noticeable performance improvement vs. a stock R16. Quote Link to comment
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