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weld rear end


lil89ram50

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I second the point that Mike is trying to get across. Make sure you know how a welded differential is going to affect handling before you do it. You may be unpleasantly surprised once you get it in and your car becomes an understeering pig at low speeds.

 

Funny story about welded diffs. In late 70's when FWD cars were beginning to become popular in SCCA racing my dad knew a few guys who were running a welded diff on their cars. If you think the low speed handling is bad in a RWD car, imagine what it is like in a FWD car! I guess at anything under 30mph the cars pretty much wouldn't turn, but at race speeds, they were great.

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get a real lsd its worth the money i personally would pull a rear axle from a fox body mustang and go from there so much support for those cars there has got to be a billion lsd options out there for them

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that was my first thought while reading this, you want to race a 720, put a 8 or 9 under it. then again you laughed at the price tag of nissan lsd. so you probably won't want to spend the money on the right stuff anyway. go balls out and make it a true drift truck and don't worry about driving it on the street. weld the diff and keep it on the track.

 

and i want to see pictures of this setup.

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that was my first thought while reading this, you want to race a 720, put a 8 or 9 under it. then again you laughed at the price tag of nissan lsd. so you probably won't want to spend the money on the right stuff anyway. go balls out and make it a true drift truck and don't worry about driving it on the street. weld the diff and keep it on the track.

 

and i want to see pictures of this setup.

 

theres not too much to this truck really.. jus a ka24de motor.. stock for now with aftrmrkt headers n intake piping... soon to have cams n injectors n a tune..... but not for a while... it has the leaf springs chopped off right behing the axle, acting as a 2 link, i have a panhard bar on there to keep it in place also. it is notched 6 inches, as the axle sat right on the frame when we put the coil overs in... so its low. the front right now is stock with the torsion bolts removed so it is as far down as it can possibly go, bump stops also cut in half... soon i will be completely removing the torsion bars, due to the weight, n putting in 2 inch drop spindles, and z my front frame 2 inches, and put in coil overs and bassicaly have about 4 inches of suspension travel instead of none. i everything inside gutted, but still street legal, i still have tail lights n blinkers n stuff, but like heater n ac n extra crap like that is all taken out. and as for the body, well its not the prettiest, i got it for 200 bux running the napz, but head cracked n bla bla bla, so i got a ka n droped n wired it in. so we tore out shitty motor n taped up n ssanded an rattle canned it a light purple with a rising sun, didnt do any body work. the box is horrible, so we will be making a wooden flat bed, and i will get a good box n have a friend who runs a custom car shop bob it 22 inches for me :) i did bob mine, but is way to rusty, was bassicaly jus for fun n to see how it would look n i love it! still got a few bits left to get it running.... so far i have less than 1500 in this truck including the truck...

 

 

 

and also, all i have is a stick welder, its all i kno how to use :( but it has came in verry handy a time or two :P

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Dangerous, period.

 

spooled rears are for going straight. if you are constantly weakening it by going around low-speed corners, it may break on you (axle, or welds)

if it were to break at highway speeds, the results could be catastrophic for you and any drivers around you.

 

for track-only vehicles if at all.

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  • 3 weeks later...

hhhmmmmmmmm. Watched this on 4x4 sites but not here on a little truck place.

 

A spool or welded rear end will act funny on the street. But no where near as funny as a detroit or lock rite. You will get use to either. With either you may want to upgrade to better axles. With the light back end and a little wet they will break loose easy and slide in a little wet weather. I do not like limited slip because when i get in a lot of places it is no better than an open. The best way to go is selectable lockers. In these trucks may be hard to find and pricy. Either way if it were not for the taking of scrap metal from time to time i would weld mine. Been stuck in my own yard way to many times. I have not had a locked datsun before but in my chevies it was not to bad. seems to be worse the lighter the backend is for street driving. I agree with mike and all his thinking but people do what they want. Some of you live to the north and on icey roads a welded rear is a death wish. If i got another jeep i would weld the rear but on my truck it will stay open.

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i had a welded rear in my 84 4-Runner, not my choice or doing, and i almost put it into ditches when it was wet. i HATED it. i got used to it BUT it was still scary when it was wet. i would NOT weld one. but there again thats my opinion.

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Where do you live? I just want to make I'm not on the same road as you are. I run a nissan comp LSD in my street Z and I love it. I also have a quaife in my race car and it's the shit. I have driven a welded diff car at an auto X and it SUCKED ASS. But it might just work for drift. totally out of control. I don't think you will make it thru a course without plowing everything down.

 

Datsun Mike knows what he is talking about. Take his info and sleep on it for a bit.

 

If you can't afford an lsd you sure as hell can't affort to race very often. Your going to be going thru tires and axles every time you run.

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Guys a new 9" floater with hubs is $600 plus and and if you break the axle the tire stays on. If you break a axle in the corner you can go on your roof and spend alot of $ and buy a new ride. If you go to a racecar swap meet there is always cheap rear ends for sale, If your lucky with spare gears and axles and big breaks. Welded rear ends are for D dearby cars not racecars or racetrucks.

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