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The Mission's 1972 240z SR20DET Build


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I put a 4.11 in her today...

 

It's like a whole different car! The sr20det originally came with a 4.09, so my 3.56 was just too lugged down if I didn't rev it up to get going in first. Now my turbo spools right up and I can fly from a stop. I was in 4th on the freeway with my 3.56 at 65 mph and it felt luggy, now it's super responsive and a full on bullet speed wise.

 

The swap was insanely simple, with using a 720 front diff with the 4.11 ratio, swapping out the flanges and putting it right back up. I could do it now in an hour or so.

 

Every time I take the car out there are things that come up that I want to tweak or assess, which is he norm for all the changes I've made, but I really feel like things are getting reliable and solid to step it up and get a standalone on it and get it tuned.

 

I have longacre support rods coming soon for the front splitter (just in case), and new lug nuts for the wheels, as I was still using the originals, since they worked well enough, but new anodized ones will hold up better and look cleaner in the black wheels.

 

I really hope ZCC comes up to Canby and brings a spoiler with them, as if the price is the same as it was last year there, it'd be tempting to pick up.

 

I'm planning on coming out to Canby to check things out and let people take a look at the car.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The flares are Ebay specials out of California.

 

I've taken it out over the last few weeks to shows and have done well. 1st place Z at Canby and 1st place nissan and judges (thatssiiick.com) choice at PIR today.

 

I also changed out the door weatherstripping, as the "oem" replacements are crap. Kia sportage weatherstripping for the win! Perfect for Z cars and cost me 10 bucks at the pick and pull.

 

I got rear ended on the way home... Only crushed my fg bumper, but man should 85 year old dudes not drive. Gonna have to get me another bumper... Bah... He's got state farm, so I'm set I'm sure.

 

I've decided not to run a rear spoiler, but will be tinting it this week to bring more black up top.

 

I also weighed her - 2300 with full tank. With within 50 lbs front to back ratio with the tank full, but so she's near perfectly balanced and nice and light!

 

All in all, I'm really happy with the feedback from people at shows and it makes the last few years worth it for certain.

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I scored a 4.11 by posting a WTB on hybridz. Some dude in california who has been in Zs forever had one laying around that was a bolt in affair. The 4.11 came on the 710 4x4 pickups, but only certain ones work. You want BOLT IN Spindles, NOT SNAP IN. If you get snap in, your life will be miserable taking the diff apart and making the necessary changes. If you get bolt it, you use an air gun, take off the input flange and side axle flanges off the 4.11 R180 from the truck and bolt up your Z input and side axle flanges, fill it with fluid and you're good to bolt the diff right back in...

 

Unfortunately, no LSD yet, but the STI LSD R180 with spindles from Hybridz Sponsored Sales section looks crazy tempting, but around 1k to do, which I can hold off on till I run standalone and turn my power up.

 

The best thing I ever did was put up the small amount of funds to by the Nissan Datascan software and consult cable. I wired it into my ecu with a consult port I took off a pick and pull nissan of similiar years. It's diagnosed all kinds of things that come up with the swap.

 

There is nothing like plugging a usb port into your laptop and seeing pretty much everything the engine is doing. Death to the multi-meter...

 

I can easily confirm and log my MAF voltages, Injector Duty Cycles, Timing, Super Specific RPM, TPS sensor voltage, IACV percentage and so on...

 

So far, my TPS sensor was way off and I had to adjust idle voltage correctly, my MAF checks out perfect, my water temp sensor (very important on the SRs, checks out perfect and matches my gauge 100%), my timing is dead on.

 

Whoever had the engine before me didn't read up much, as it had the wrong O2 for the ECU and I wasn't getting the power out of it I thought it could do. I changed out to the correct (skinny) O2 for the ECU and discovered through datascan that it still wasn't reading right, so I read up again on the specific sensor and discovered that for some stupid reason, black was signal, white was ground, and red was 12v. With that changed, it's all nice and happy and logging correctly in the software.

 

I use a great Wideband, from 14point7, which they've upgraded even further. I have the SLC Pure Plus, but the newer one can log and display all kinds of nifty information. It lead me to see the issues with the O2 and it's peace of mind to log ratios to RPMs easily, without standalone help. If you look at my gauge setup, it's right in the middle of the dash, above the boost controller.

 

DoneZDSCN2262-08.jpg

 

I believe the more info, the better, so my gauge setup is top to bottom:

 

Prosport electrics up top, (Boost, Fuel Pressure, Water Temp) L-R up top,

Nordskog (Oil pressure, Oil temp gauges)

Pure Plus Wideband

Greddy Boost Controller

Nordskog (Intake air temp (cold pipe), Fuel Level, Voltage)

 

This week, I've ordered a used IACV to check out, as I'm having rough cold starts and some intermittent idle issues. I took apart my IACV and cleaned it, checked voltages going to it, and everything looks spiffy, it just is the last thing that could effect idle other than a vaccuum leak, and I've gone through that system many times.

 

My neighbor/friend tints cars, so I'm going to have him take care of the Z, keeping the whole build still all home made.

 

It's been a DIY effort from the beginning, as I'm no shop guy and no shop has built it, so I'm pretty proud when it wins shows, as I didn't buy the car, I brought her back from the scrapheap.

 

With an insane amount of forum searching and reading, some great software, and tenacity, it's possible for almost anyone to build up a Z... I'm still learning more about the engine and car, and get a boost after figuring out the little issues and troubleshooting solutions. Without the internet, I'd never be able to pull this off.

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  • 1 month later...

Had a lot of good fun today at the Gresham Show.... I'm planning on heading out to Blue Lake tomorrow for fun as well...

 

I did a bit of changing to the car the last month...

 

It's tinted around the sides and back at 20 percent, I moved the battery up to the front, as I was too heavy in the rear, which made me have to redo the rear wiring, the rear panels, and clean up the back end a bit...

 

It looks pretty sweet now, and I'm happy with driving it around and taking it shows a bit...

 

Here's today's shots.

 

12c0a603.jpg

 

09faad93.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Hey hey, anything new?

 

I just put a 200sx 4.11 in my z a couple weeks ago. Soooooo much fun, it was a toss up between 3.7 and 4.11, really glad I went 4.11 lol.

Did you convert your shafts to snap in, convert the dif to bolt in or just leave them floating?

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  • 2 months later...

Haven't posted up in a while due to having a beautiful daughter born and storing the Z for the winter...   but I brought her out yesterday...

 

The Z will be in The Portland International Auto show forum exhibit next week, so come check it out if you want to see it in person.   I haven't really done much more to her this winter, but when the weather warms up, I'll surely do some more things here and there.    

 

Also, It looks like the Z is in line to be featured in an editorial in Modified Magazine in the near future, so I'm looking forward to finally being able to get one of my project cars in a mag.   The photos are already shot, just now time to be patient and see where it drops.

 

Here's an outtake from the shoot just recently posted by the photographer http://www.natehasslerphoto.com

 

775078_479660138746944_2027287081_o_zpsc

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  • 2 months later...
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  • 5 months later...

BTW Jeff - ALL the wiring, (Minus the SR Engine Loom) is new.... It's a ez-wire 21 circuit all black wiring kit, with labels every 6 inches on the wires. I also pretty much rewired the engine loom as well to remove a ton of the unneeded stuff, which seemed to go well, as it runs and everything checks out with the ECUlink software I'm running. The old wiring was just nasty and I would have had to rewire the whole dash and get wires to the rear for the fuel pump and such, so might as well just do the whole thing.I also moved the battery to below the rear panel and next to the fuel cell in the back, running both ground and positive up to the front.Here's some fun wiring pics of the whole setupZ131.jpgZ138.jpgZ137.jpgZ136.jpgZ134.jpgZ133.jpgZ128.jpg

I'm beginning to wire in my 18 circuit Painless Wiring Kit. The only problem I think I'm going to have is trying to figure out is how to pair it to an SR20DET S13 engine wire harness.

 

I noticed you've made some sort of relay device. Will that make pairing easier? Do you have blueprints or schematics for that?

 

How did you do it?

 

Please any advice would help.

 

Thanks,

Poizen

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