heating problems

[jonesy510]

sense my goon is running i decided i should fix the heater. so one day i lookd down at the valve sprayed some wd40 on it so it opens and shuts all the way and just like that i had a heater!! i ran water through it to make sure the was no gunk built up in the core. i then put al the hoses back on filled it with water and all that jazz and now my temp gauge says my motor is runnin really hot. I put a new thermostat in and it still reads hot. the thermostat opens and closes and i can feel the rad get hot as the water runs through it. i believe i have no air in my system and i know i have plenty of water.

 

is there any way i can just test the gauge to c if it just reads hot??

 

or maybe there is an air pocket someplace in the system still??

 

thanx for the help in advance!

[Pumpkn210]

When messin with the coolant system on my goon I found that I had to check it over and over again and add a little here and there. Took about a week till the system leveled out and ran normal temps. Also it kept loosing fluid till I put a catch can on it.

[jonesy510]

thanx pumpkin. before i messed with the heater it ran in the right temp range but as soon as i got the heater working i have had a temp problem so i think its just an air pocket

[Pumpkn210]

Mine still has a spike (up to 3/4 on the guage) when its warming up. Jumps right back down to half right away.

[hang_510]

is there any way i can just test the gauge to c if it just reads hot??

external thermometer, helps to 'calibrate' the gauge.

 

 

heater rebuild: http://www.510coop.com/heater/

[datzenmike]

I don't think this will help much with the problem, but if you pull the Yellow/white wire off the temp sender and hold against the housing to ground it, the gauge inside will read full hot.

[jonesy510]

I don't think this will help much with the problem, but if you pull the Yellow/white wire off the temp sender and hold against the housing to ground it, the gauge inside will read full hot.

 

:blink: actually mike that might help because i had to the lil connector thing and might have accidentally pushed it on to far and the base might b tought the housing!!! thanks!!! :D :D :D

[DanielC]

This is information from a 1970 521 manual.

Applying a 40 ohm resistor to the wire on the thermistor, and grounding the other end, at the engine should cause the meter to read 176 degrees Fahrenheit. I believe that is at the line in the middle of the temp gauge.

 

The service manual also says using a 35 ohm resistor at the fuel tank sender causes the gas gauge to read 1/2 tank.

 

Again, this is for a 521. Your car may be different, or it could be tha same.

[jonesy510]

so i bought a new temp sender... went to replace it and snapped the bolt that holds it in... now im guessing it isnt some ordinary bolt i cant find at the hardware store do to the fact that its hollow... so am just SOL??

[datzenmike]

Yes you are fucked.

 

Well nothing to do but fix it. Drill out and use the largest easy out that will fit. The sender is soft brass so way better that a broken manifold bolt!

 

 

They fit the correct hole so make sure you match the easy out to the drill size you use. The easy out turns into the hole and jams it's was in and tightens into the brass in the direction that the sender would turn to remove it. Just keep tightening and the remains of the sender will un-screw out.

 

 

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[jonesy510]

i have the bottom of the thermostat housing of my other motor and i was just going to swap the two housings. "idk what its actually called"

 

i was able to loosen the bolts that hold it into the head so i figured ill just replace the housing instead of drilling out the sender.. but were can i get a bolt to holed the sender in??? do they actually carry those hollow bolts at hardware stores??

 

the hollow bolt that goes here that hold the sender in..

 

 

also i dont think my other housing has this.... wats this for???

 

[Spades]

^^^ what mike said. brass can be alot easier to get out, but go slow...I have seen people strip the brass out with the easy out cause they weren't carefull...then they were left with brass in the steel or aluminum threads,lol....still recoverable, just more work and time wasted.

 

also, on the original issue of no heat...my car sat for years without being used, so I pulled the valve going to the heater core, took it apart, put new seals and o-rings in it, greased it up, and put it back. while the valve was out, I hooked up some heater hose to the heater core, and hooked that to a garden hose to flush it out. IF YOU DO THAT DO NOT TURN THE WATER ON FULL BLAST! I used very low pressure to get the gunk flushed out of the core...I did the same with the radiator.

 

I had no problems with the system having air in it after those precautions. When I have to burp the cooling systems on cars known to trap air in the system, I find a hose near the top of the cooling system, and loosen the clamp to alow air pressure to bleed out untill coolant starts flowing from the hose. most of the time though, you can go to your local auto parts store and buy a funnel adapter kit that will clip over where the radiator cap would go, fill the funnel half full of coolant, and let the car run and slowly burp the air out and siphon the coolant down.

 

no matter which method you use, dont forget to put a catch pan underneath the car. last thing you want if you live in the city is for a neighbor to call local authorities cause they are worried about ethylene glycol entering their sewer system. :D

[jonesy510]

haha thanks spades i will check this out!! i believe the sender just might b bad or im hoping because i drove my car three hours on the freeway from my parents house to my apt. in fullerton and it had no problems... so i either just put my motor through hell.. or the sender is bad... i have been driving using as my dd as well and havent ran into any problems... i know most of u ratsun guys are gunna be extremely pissed and talk bad about me but im sorry... im young dumb and full of cum... well not full of cum my gf helps me out with that part :rolleyes:

[datzenmike]

This outlet lets a small amount of water out of the head and returns it to the lower rad hose inlet to the block. This moves water past the thermostat so it can sample the temperature and when hot enough will open to the top rad hose. Without this circulation the cold water is trapped around the thermostat while the rest of the motor runs hot.

 

The thing it's on is the thermostat housing. Be sure you use the correct length bolt on the front bolt. If too long it will rub against the timing chain.

 

 

.

[jonesy510]

thanks mike! so i can find a bolt for the temp sender at any hardware store then??

[datzenmike]

So you replaced the thermostat housing and it didn't have a sender in it???

 

If you get a new sender just screw into the housing.

[MikeRL411]

Old trick. Locate the heater hose that is the intake to the heater. Fortunately it usually is at the high point of the hose routing. Cut the hose at the highest point on the way to the heater and insert a flushing tee. leave it open when filling the radiator and the trapped air will migrate to the tee. When the coolant level reaches the top of the tee, wait a while [long enough to have a beer] and the start squeezing the upper, lower radiator hoses and any the heater return hose. If no burps, top off the filler neck on the tee and screw on the cap. No trapped air!

[jonesy510]

MIkeRl411: are u talking about a tall can?? :blink: haha

 

DatzenMike:i mean this bolt

 

 

 

 

i snapped trying to remove the old temp sender in the other housing so instead of drilling it out and all that i was just goin to swap housings.

 

the question is can i find one of these bolts at a local hardware store?

 

 

wow this is gettin confusing hahaha :huh: :(

[datzenmike]

Uh ok I see now. Every time I ever removed a sender it just unscrewed and I swapped a used one in. So the new sender won't have this hollow nut on it.

 

You'll have to steal one from another L motor or go to the Nissan dealer and ask for part # 25251 37700. This is the hollow nut and it fits all L16/18/20B Z20/22/24 motors.... about $5 if they have them.

 

I did not know the sender screwed into a fitting that screwed onto the housing. What do you know????:D

[jonesy510]

haha yea the sender actually just slides in.well at least in my case haha.i noticed the two housings are slightly different the one on my motor now doesnt have the small outlet so im hoping that can b plugged without braking that bolt too... but one problem at a time.. haha

[jonesy510]

well i havent posted here for awhile but i just recently put my new temp sender in this weekend and wouldnt u know it.. i still go the same problem the gauge is still at h when the water temp is about 150... i remember someplace somewhere someone mentioned a voltage regulator for the dash or something?? cud that b the reason y my gauge is almost always hot?? or would that effect both gas and temp gauges...

 

anyways is there any other reasons my gauge would read hot?? if i ground it the temp reads pinned on the h and wen its at 40 oms its right on the middle line so yea idk...

 

 

but i got a heater again and it works amazing ;) ;) :D :D

[banzai510(hainz)]

if its the volt reg

Are you out of gas before you reach E on Gauge? If yes then its the volt reg

Baz of Datsport says there is a ground wire by the hood release that needs cleaning or grounding. I havent cked this myself. let us know

[jonesy510]

thanx hainz ill check it out. but sense i have never ran out of gas before my gauge reaches the e does that mean my voltage reg for the dash is good?? ill check it out anyways just to make sure tho

[banzai510(hainz)]

I think Datto510 on here had this proplem with the temp gauge.

But then later told me he would run out of gas before it being on E.

 

then seen a write up on OZDAT. about both gauges not reading correct. Baz said the ground wire for the instrument panel was by the hood release lever.

 

Havent ck this myself.

 

usually if the volt reg is bad both gausge will not work or both read off.

I assume if the temp gausge reads high then the gas gauge will also or vis versa(reads low)