Where can I get head bolts for L16?

[Bears510]

I know that it is advisable to replace head bolts when you do a rebuild but I am having trouble tracking some down for a stock L16 motor. I searched on here for info but didn't come across anything. SUPPOSEDLY this motor was rebuilt about 8k ago but I have no confirmation on that and seems to be original/stock from what I have seen so not trusting they are newer bolts or were even replaced at any point in it's life. I checked ARP and didn't see anything other than L20 bolts (different length I am assuming) rock auto, checker, autozone and BAP says they "might" be able to order them, but they will have to get back to me and haven't heard anything back yet and he didn't seem too be optimistic about it. Also, I checked on ebay and didn't see any.... the dime quarterly newsletter (Finally got all the back issues..YAY!) says to order "turbo" bolt part numbers 11056-p7600 and 11059-p7600, but have no idea what that is in relation to (Dealer part number?) Any help/links would be appreciated...

Thanks in advance,

[DanielC]

I believe it is OK to reuse L-16 Head bolts, if they are in good shape. Especially if you are building a "stock" engine. You might also look into getting head bolts for a 240Z L-24 engine, basically it is the same engine as the L-16, with two extra cylinders.

The "turbo" bolts are more desirable, if you can get them.

If you have not, get a thread chaser bottoming tap, and clean out the head bolt holes. I believe the sizs you need is M10 x 1.5. Do not just use a normal tap, the taper on it will not clean out the bolt hole to the bottom. I would also screw each head bolt into each hole in the block it is going into, and make sure there is enought of the bolt threaded into the block, and the head of the bolt actually goes down far enough to clamp the head. Remember the cam tower head bolts are longer.

 

I am sure Hainz (L-motor Guru) will chime in here shortly, listen to his advise, and I hope he corrects any misconceptions I have.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I reuse mine all the time esp the L16

about 40 pounds and add a cunt hair more for stretch but key is keep the threads clean.

 

I would recomend the turbo bolts or ARP on a L20 is semi building a good motor.

[Bears510]

I believe it is OK to reuse L-16 Head bolts, if they are in good shape. Especially if you are building a "stock" engine. You might also look into getting head bolts for a 240Z L-24 engine, basically it is the same engine as the L-16, with two extra cylinders.

The "turbo" bolts are more desirable, if you can get them.

If you have not, get a thread chaser bottoming tap, and clean out the head bolt holes. I believe the sizs you need is M10 x 1.5. Do not just use a normal tap, the taper on it will not clean out the bolt hole to the bottom. I would also screw each head bolt into each hole in the block it is going into, and make sure there is enought of the bolt threaded into the block, and the head of the bolt actually goes down far enough to clamp the head. Remember the cam tower head bolts are longer.

 

I am sure Hainz (L-motor Guru) will chime in here shortly, listen to his advise, and I hope he corrects any misconceptions I have.

I thought about reusing the bolts since it is stock and not going to be racing it around or anything, but since everything seems completely stock and original, was worried that 40 years might be a bit on the old side for reuse..lol!

The motor is going to be completely stock, and probably will remain that way for awhile, just going to use the 510 as a daily driver for a bit so resealing the motor up, cleaning and detailing. The motor is in great shape, good compression, runs good, just got a few small oil leaks and "possible" bad head gasket (water in oil, but could be from the bad pcv hose that was literally falling apart when I washed out the engine bay when I first got it. ordered that part as well). Ordered the thread chaser already, but thanks for the advice on that anyways! good advice! what are the turbo bolts from? year? make? model? any info on that would be great!

If Hainz has any info, which I am sure he does, I am all ears!

Thanks for the info!

[Bears510]

I reuse mine all the time esp the L16

about 40 pounds and add a cunt hair more for stretch but key is keep the threads clean.

 

I would recomend the turbo bolts or ARP on a L20 is semi building a good motor.

see, I should have just waited a few more minutes..lol! so are you saying you would recommend turbo or arp only if you were building a L20 motor up? but otherwise stock factory bolts are fine for stock? just clarifying...

[Apollo77]

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214041

this is where i got my bolts for an L20B engine. PN 11056p3000. however thats the part number for the short bolts only. i hope it helps

DV

[79D50]

ARP sells them. Part # 202-4201. These are studs and not bolts and can be re-used as they never stretch. I use ARP on everything i.e. head, rod and main bolts. They are the best you can buy.

[hang_510]

otherwise stock factory bolts are fine for stock? just clarifying...

re use stock on a stock build.

 

the L20 and L16/18 use the same head = compatible.

 

 

 

id bet there will a set avail at swapmeet in your 'zone'

i have a full used set if you still need them.

[]2eDeYe]

I got my from these guys. Their website has changed a bit so you might want to call to make sure they are the correct application.

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/head-bolt-set-p-622250.html

 

Make sure you clean out the bolt holes in the block. Any debris in there will cause an incorrect torque reading and can crack your block.

[Bears510]

Awesome guys!!! got the motor pulled and on the stand a few minutes ago so it's on now!!! lol!

THANKS for all the info, I knew you guys would have the answers! :D

[datzenmike]

It comes down to what you can afford. Only advantage to new ones is they are clean. Old ones are absolutely reusable if thoroughly clean and lightly oiled. Also put a drop of oil on top of the washer to get good accurate pull on your torque wrench.

[Apollo77]

old ones are still good like everyone says, the only reason i got new ones is on of mine snapped. so i thought might as well.

good luck with the rebuild

DV

[HRH]

The originals can be reused, but I would highly recommend the ARP head stud kit. Lines up the head really nicely, and no worry about floating the head with really high compression. A little overkill on a stockish motor, but I put them on when I built the 20b for the rally car and I absolutely loved it. No retorques, no head gasket issues, and way stronger than stock or turbo head bolts.

[greybeard]

Yep, I reuse the stock ones too, never a problem, IIRC L28T had better bolts, will work with any L motor,

 

Other than an L24B :P

[Bears510]

Thanks again guys!

Got the motor all torn down yesterday, bolts looks good so since I will be keeping it completely stock, probably just going to reuse. But again, thanks for the info!

The head gasket was TOAST and was leaking in several places. Oil was like thick chocolate milk and that was only from a couple test drives around the block! ACK!

well, back to cleaning!!!

[datzenmike]

Get those bolt and block threads clean. Use a bottom tap on the block or grind 2-3 lengthwise grooves down the threads of an old bolt. Rub some bearing grease in the grooves and thread into the block turning forward and back until it bottoms. The grease will collect any crap caught in the block threads that is pushed out by the bolt and you can remove and wipe off. Do again until it comes out clean. This is more than enough for a stock rebuild. When installing the bolts don't forget to oil the washer between the head and the bolt head.

[Bears510]

Get those bolt and block threads clean. Use a bottom tap on the block or grind 2-3 lengthwise grooves down the threads of an old bolt. Rub some bearing grease in the grooves and thread into the block turning forward and back until it bottoms. The grease will collect any crap caught in the block threads that is pushed out by the bolt and you can remove and wipe off. Do again until it comes out clean. This is more than enough for a stock rebuild. When installing the bolts don't forget to oil the washer between the head and the bolt head.

Got it! and will do!

question for ya, two of the long bolts that hold the cam tower down were oily, I am assuming it passes oil by the bolts to the cam towers for the lubication. In the manual, it looks like only two feed the towers, then pass through the cam to the other cam bearings which I have seen before, but, the diagram is not real clear. just wanna make sure there is no blockage as the other two long bolts were dry. Any ideas?

[datzenmike]

Yeah the diagram isn't clear but mine shows all four towers getting oil yet the text says it is only supplied through the #2 and #3 cam tower. From there it travels down the inside of the cam to the rockers and lobes. If the bolts are oily, it just leaked past the washer.

[Bears510]

perfect, thanks for the info Mike!

[Buzzbomb]

I reused most of mine on my stock L20b, and the ones I did replace were replaced with used bolts. Some of mine were in poor shape, at least from the outside, and I was afraid they would bust so I sourced some good used bolts.

 

Datzenmike's suggestion about cleaning the bolt holes out with an extra head bolt works super, BTW. I was lucky enough to have a local guy give me the bolts I needed, and there was an extra in there. I cut a 90 degree or so notch in the threads, and threaded that thing in and out until I was satisfied the bolt hole was clean. There was a lot of crap in those holes, and I believe this step was one of the more critical steps in determing the success of my head gasket replacement. Same thing about the drop of oil on bolt head and washer.

[datzenmike]

Any rust or crap will cause the bolt to tighten (torque to spec) way too soon without going to the proper depth. The bolt will torque to 60 pounds but the head is only being clamped with 40 pounds for example. Clean lightly oiled bolt and block threads will ensure that the bolt penetrates to the maximum depth and applies the proper torque over the whole head surface. Preparation is everything.