datzenmike Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Just to the rear of the #2 exhaust pipe. Also the Z22, unless it was changed, usually has a die cast valve cover. The Z24 was a black, stamped steel one. Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted November 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Well CRAP! Turns out it's a Z24... I just talked to the guy on the phone, and it says Z24 right on the side of the block... I'd just slam my head on it, and run it, but I've heard some bad stories about Z24 blocks cracking... I think I might still buy it anyway... Maybe make one of those medium block 2.4 motors? Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 for $100 id do it! better motor (torque) for the 4X4 anyway. i didnt know what mine had unitl i did the HG, looks like all stock Z24 internals and it goes to 11 :lol: i had taken it up to 8000 many times :eek: and who knows what the PO did to it on the track... as far as the cracking goes, in my search i only found L20's cracked (3), and they are all in the same location, head bolts between 2/3. i use studs to reduce the chances of it happening... Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted November 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 I was thinking of doing the Medium block 2.4, but use the Z20e rods to try and keep the rod/stroke ratio good. I found a piston that will work, but they are $60 bucks each for silvolite pistons, and I have to buy a set of 6. For factory pistons they are $148 at MY price... I did find someone that can turn the crank counter blanace weights for me though... I dont know... The problem with just using the Z24 is that its a lot taller than the L20b. I would want to use my L head on it, but I dont want to have hood clearance issues... :( This Z24 is $100 for just the short block, no head... The guy said he pulled it because it was overheating and he didnt know why... He swapped the shortblocks, kept the same head. He said it was something stupid making it over heat, but I dont know... seems kinda fishy... Where would I look for cracks on the Z24 block? I'm going to look at it after school tonight. Think I should buy it still? The crappy thing is I already bought the pistons to do the LZ2.2 with the 152.5mm rods... Link to comment
kiznook Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 you might not have any hood clearance issues. I know that running a "tall" block in a 510 you have that problem, but KAs fit in the 620s just fine and your setup won't be any taller. worst case, hood scoop or lower the engine a tiny bit Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 I The crappy thing is I already bought the pistons to do the LZ2.2 dont feel too bad, i made the same mistake :cursing: dont buy pistons first! :rolleyes: bought JE forged for a stroker L20. fortunately i will still be able to make them work w/ the Z22 ... lower the engine a tiny bit :thumbsup: my dime hood a nice bump in it (by the PO) which is why i had mentioned using nissan motor mounts ONLY then theres the gaskets... Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted November 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Well the pistons might not be a total loss... If I can find some of the z22 149.5 mm rods, I can still use the pistons I bought... With the Z24 crank. that would be sweet. Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 those will be avail way before the crank is. i could easily be persuaded to go get them...(would need to measure to verify length first) id trade you straight across for some stock L20 rods :D Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted November 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 The rods available huh? I'm leary to buy rods off ebay, without knowing the casting # for the 149.5mm rods. *EDIT* I just did some more reading, and I don't know why I didn't realize it sooner... Since the Z24 block is taller, I would have to modify the L20b timing cover to seal on the extra 3/4 inch of block height. That pretty much eliminates using the L head on the Z24 motor for me. SO, I just have to decide how bad I want to make a frankenstein motor with the Z24 crank... The only reason I would be buying this short block is for the crank. The rods are too long to do anything with, in anything other than the Z24 block. So $100 for the crank, and another $100 minimum to have the counter balance weights turned to fit in the L block... With the 86mm pistons, it would make a 2.23l engine... The Z22 crank would yield a 2.14... Sounds like a lot of hassle, and $$ for only an extra .09 liters... The pistons for the Z24/L20/149.5 combo are $60 a piece also... I think I'll pass on the Z24, and just keep searching for a Z22 core motor, or just crank. Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 2, 2007 Report Share Posted November 2, 2007 use the Z24 cover and block, timing chain. there are no bolt holes for the L head(2) to the Z24 cover(4) that match. sealing is not a huge issue as its not under pressure (i used lots of RTV applied carefully inside) and used 2 bolts w/larger washers to seal on each side. @100mi no leaks yet the rods are still installed in the block, i will try to get to it this weekend to measure and check marks etc... i still have no idea what dizzy(4 plug) it is :? Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted November 2, 2007 Report Share Posted November 2, 2007 Using the L24 timing chain won't work, as it's too short for the LZ24 hybrid. You need to add a couple links. Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 2, 2007 Report Share Posted November 2, 2007 as far as the cracking goes, in my search i only found L20's cracked (3), and they are all in the same location, head bolts between 2/3. Hell I went thru 3 L20's at the machine shop before I finally got a good block... There are ways to keep that from happening. Making sure the threads are clean on the headbolt and the block and making sure the threaded hole is free of ANYTHING. Link to comment
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