DatDoug Posted June 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 Oil pan all cleaned & painted. The shiny Valve cover :D My re-cored radiator The exhaust issue :angry: Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 X 2, liking the detailing. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Got the exhaust cut & welded so it doesnt hit the block anymore. Got the oil pan on. Got all the pumps on: Fuel, Water, Oil :P Also decided to go with the black Valve Cover instead of the shiny 1. Stay tuned tomor I will change my mind again :blink: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 I noticed on my motor swaps not to install the water pump to give me just extra clearance to the front core support.But its not a deal breaker. Im sure you know this butmake sure the oil pump has OIL in it(Primed) where the oil filter is the hole that goes to the front cover I took a small tube and pumped extra oil to the front cover. Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 I noticed on my motor swaps not to install the water pump to give me just extra clearance to the front core support.But its not a deal breaker. Im sure you know this butmake sure the oil pump has OIL in it(Primed) where the oil filter is the hole that goes to the front cover I took a small tube and pumped extra oil to the front cover. Thanks Hainz. I appreciate all the input I can get. Especially from the L-Motor God himself :thumbup: Now just need to put on the hoist & throw the clutch & it should be in the car by tomoro :frantics: Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 Painted my valve cover with the wrinkle black. Love the look! :cool: Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 :bye: Well I finally got the motor in! Thanks to a little help from my friends :D Rusty (lilredrocket) & Derrick (Apollo77) pitched in while I kicked it with a beer :blink: Now I just need to hook everything up. :hyper: :frantics: :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
datto510 Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 That is freaking sweet! Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 That is freaking sweet! Thanks. Its been a lot of work so far but it will be worth it. I will have everything back together in the next couple of days but will have to wait till Wednesday to start it up. Got the carb coming in the mail. It will give me time to finish up all the little things. Quote Link to comment
Apollo77 Posted June 11, 2010 Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 ya gotta love the soap opera glamor shot you got going on there. either that or its just Dougs eyes watering up :lol: its a slick looking beast! but you gotta see it in person to really get detail. glad to help Buddie! :cool: DV lil light on the subject with some clear eyes :D Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2010 Thanks Derrick for the photos :D Must have been some funk on my camera lense :blink: Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2010 While Im waiting PATIENTLY :hyper: for my carb, I decided to build a speaker box for the 8" subs that came in the Redneck KingCab. I am putting it behind my backseat in the gOOn. :D Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 Got my carb & put it on the mani then bolted the mani on & plumbed everything up. Fired it up today :hyper: Other than the no exhaust loedness it ran really good. Got it timed & the carb dialed in. Then I went to weld myn exhaust back up & it fell apart! :no: So now I have to wait til Monday & take it in for a full exhaust. Heres a few pics. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 after you break the motor in. say 30mins Drive the motor to the higher RPM. if it cuts out I assume it need rejetting. Happen to my 521 with Cam and 32/36. Ran out of breath near the top.Replaced with 38/38DGES rans good now. Not all DGVs are jetted the same back in the day. But your might be OK. Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 after you break the motor in. say 30mins Drive the motor to the higher RPM. if it cuts out I assume it need rejetting. Happen to my 521 with Cam and 32/36. Ran out of breath near the top.Replaced with 38/38DGES rans good now. Not all DGVs are jetted the same back in the day. But your might be OK. It is a 38/38 my Datsun brutha. I got one for my white 73 620 & really liked the throttle response, so I wanted to get one for the gOOn tOO. Still need tyo get my exhaust done. I want to fucking drive this thing! :baby: Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Took out Ol Blu for its maiden voyage with the "Big" block L20. Was going good til it started missing & clacking. Pulled over & pulled the valve cover & seen 1 of the lash pads lying in the bottom of the head :blink: WTF? Road size fix & brot her home Did a Hot lash adj. Took it back out & it seemd to do ok. Still clacking from the valves. I think I will go with a lil titer gap. Gave her a bath :D Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 my 38/38 caused my intakes manifold and valves to be very black on my L16. Maybe with your L20 it will be better. I lowered my idle jets to 45 on each side but couldnt tell the difference really. Once you got 38/38 you really dont want to go back but if you do a 32/36 is 4 bolts and bam your done. I think 38/38 is closest to SUs with better reliability.SUs still might flow more cause its a sidedraft where the air doesnt have to go around a 90deg bend. let us know how you compared this set to your yellow 510 set up you had for power. try .006/.007 intake .008/.009 exhaust cold see if that quiets it up Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Just started to think about this. If your still using the stock retainer IM positive youll have a bit more lash pad above the ratainer.Even if you tighten it up to say .006/.008 there will be a certain amount of rock on the lash pad as afternarket pads are flat on the bottom. Unlike stock ones are counter sunk. If still using the stock retainer be ready for another lash to come out.carry a spare and a 10mm speedwrmench for the valve cover and big screwdriver Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 I used those exact same pads in stock retainers with no problems ever. As in those same ones literally since I gave them to him. I had them set around 007-009. My cam was the 450 regrind. It was originally setup ready to go with stock pads. The head also has 3 cam tower shims stacked up. I did mention once that the head should be measured to make sure the builder didnt use too many. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Datsunfish I remeber you using them on your motor. Doug IM sure will let us know My 460 and my 475 are pretty quiet compared to other peoples valave train I have to admit. I dont know if Im just lucky all the time or cause I used the bigger retainers. I said Hell with it and bought the bigger retainers since they were about 5$ apc for the aluminum ones. I know the book says you can go up to .160/170 but i didnt want to chance it. Last time I lost a cylinder a lash pad fell out. I tried putting the lashpad back in thinking the rocker must have been really loose. I coulnt get it in. I said Fuck ! How in the hell it fell out. It was at idle or just above idle that this happened. this was ths stock lash and retainer Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 If the valves are ground too deep into the stock seats or if they are sunken the rocker will be at such a pitch that the rocker itself can fall out which could also cause a pad to fall out. Even with those pads his rockers were at a steep pitch but better than with the stock ones. When I got seats cut,new valves and the head milled I had to get taller pads for the 450 cam and I needed taller aluminum retainers. Mine doesnt knock or tick in the slightest at .007-.009 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 http://www.spannerfodder.com/the_works_escorts-generic-image.php?imageName=images/the_works_escorts/pinto/cam-pad.gif basically the same as a Nissan. I ink pen my rockers stuck them in a till is was center. But remeber I have a assortment of lash pads at home Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 http://www.spannerfodder.com/the_works_escorts-generic-image.php?imageName=images/the_works_escorts/pinto/cam-pad.gif basically the same as a Nissan. I ink pen my rockers stuck them in a till is was center. But remeber I have a assortment of lash pads at home Yah Ben (DatsunFish) did the ink pen thing to mine & told me I was going to av trouble with it. He then gave me those taller lash pads to help. Maybe I need even taller ones. I av been driving it & it runs killer & I havent had any probs cept valve-train noise. Maybe you can send me some taller ones ;) Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.