what does a ka come out of?????

[sick620]

i want to make my 620 fast. is a ka swap the way to go? what does a ka come out of?

[sick620]

o and what r the specs 4 a ka

[stilltwisted]

most hardbody trucks had ka24e motors

 

sorry no t

Edited September 3, 2009 by stilltwisted

[Skib]

o and what r the specs 4 a ka

 

 

please type real words, I dont want to break out the ol cryptology machine just to decipher posts...

 

 

 

 

 

 

KA24E

 

1989–1990 Nissan 240SX

1990–1997 Nissan Hardbody Truck

1990-1995 Nissan Pathfinder

1989–1992 Nissan Axxess

1990–1992 Nissan Stanza (USA-spec)

1989–1992 Nissan Pintara / Ford Corsair

 

Bore

Edited September 2, 2009 by Skib

[Phlebmaster]

Please use the search function...thanks for helping him Skib. ;)

[sick620]

sorry man i was in a hurry lol. thanks for breaking my code:) and i did search it but maybe not hard enuff. im still learning my way around here. but thankyou very much.

[BEEBANI]

read my build thread, icehouse's thread on how to install a ka into a truck, then lather, rinse, repeat.

 

Also, I offer several products that make the swap a bolt in affair; i.e. motor mounts, tranny xmember, wiring harness.

[datzenmike]

most hardbody trucks had ka24et motors

 

KA24E and KA24DE but no T (turbos) although the Xterra did have a supercharged VG33ER motor.

[Orange620]

read my build thread, icehouse's thread on how to install a ka into a truck, then lather, rinse, repeat.

 

Also, I offer several products that make the swap a bolt in affair; i.e. motor mounts, tranny xmember, wiring harness.

 

Beebani, Do you do mounts to set a KA engine at the correct tilt to use with a 280ZX trans and an L head?

[datzenmike]

This wouldn't work because the KA would be tilted 12 degrees to the pass side. The EFI would be too close to the pass inner fender and the exhaust down pipe would be too high. Not to mention oil in the pan at the wrong level.

 

Best thing would be to get any Z engine front tranny case half and swap on to the 280zx 5 spd. This would allow the KA to sit properly and orient the tranny so the shifter is vertical.

[Orange620]

This wouldn't work because the KA would be tilted 12 degrees to the pass side. The EFI would be too close to the pass inner fender and the exhaust down pipe would be too high.

 

I want to put on an L head, deep dish pistons, and SSS SU carbs. I've seen a lot of fast 510s with KA engines so the extra 100#s in a truck doesn't worry me. I want the torque of the 2.4 plus the looks of the L engine. I already have a KA block/crank/rods. I also have an L timing cover and open head. I'll make a piece to fill the gap between the timing cover and head, get the extra links for the timing chain, modify an oil pan and figure what holes need to be plugged. I'm just unsure about the mounts, whether I can use the ones off an L engine or do they need to be custom.

[BEEBANI]

my mounts are for the ka block, using the stock L-motor rubbers.

[datzenmike]

I want to put on an L head, deep dish pistons, and SSS SU carbs. I've seen a lot of fast 510s with KA engines so the extra 100#s in a truck doesn't worry me. I want the torque of the 2.4 plus the looks of the L engine. I already have a KA block/crank/rods. I also have an L timing cover and open head. I'll make a piece to fill the gap between the timing cover and head, get the extra links for the timing chain, modify an oil pan and figure what holes need to be plugged. I'm just unsure about the mounts, whether I can use the ones off an L engine or do they need to be custom.

 

 

Are you saying you want to put an L head on a KA24E block??? Do-able but why??? The KA has superior breathing over the L head and anyway it would only look like an L engine from the head up. The KA block is distinctive. There is an oil drain back hole on the KA block that would join to a water passage on the L head.

 

If you want it to look like an L series get a Z24 motor. It already has 15 cc dished pistons vs. the KA's 2.8cc. And the Z24 block is basically an L series block only 2cm taller. Head bolts right on with no mods.

[BEEBANI]

Like Mike said; why? I understand being different and all, but at some point different becomes ridiculous and expensive. You're not going to match the power or torque of the stock ka by doing all that extra work, so why not focus your money and time on making more hp out of the ka. NA ka's are good for up to 200hp done right, and turbo'd I've seen them crank out over 400. Add NAZZ to that and you can easily melt the wheel bearings on that old truck!

[Orange620]

I'm not wanting the truck go any faster(except pulling a load up a hill), I'd just like to have the most torque I can possibly get from an L appearing engine. Mostly, I want to be able to put it in 5th and cruise at 75/80 with the throttle barely cracked open. With carbs, a small valve L head will do that better than a 12 or 16 valve head.

 

However, I'd also like to be able to load the bed with camping gear and hook a 1500# dune buggy up behind it with a tow bar and haul it up HWY 50 to the east side of the Sierras.

 

You're right about part of the reason I want to do it is to be different, but the other reason I want the KA engine to appear factory 60s is in this thread.

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=14111

 

I'll block whatever oil drain hole that needs it and use the Z24 pistons. I'd also like to use the shorter Z24 rods for additional torque but that would require custom pistons.

 

As far as spending a lot of money, I bought the KA engine for $100 and am pulling the L head and timing cover off a 620 that's going to Pick n Pull in about a week. I got a totally complete SSS SU package off ebay for about $130. They're flat top, (but not the boat anchor type), so nobody else bid.

http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/tunacan.html

 

I also want to know that if I put a lot of work into an engine like this, I have a bullet proof block and crank(KA).

Edited September 5, 2009 by Orange620

[HRH]

Just food for thought, a KA block IS basically a Z24 block with a few cosmetic changes. The cranks do interchange with some work, see my nightmare hardbody thread with the pretty bearing pictures.

 

Z24/20b head requires making a timing chain, that's annoying, and a Z22/20b combo is just as good, I don't care about the additional what, 4 mm of crank stroke. The Z22 will run just as hard.

 

If you don't want to do that, just keep the entire KA. I raced my hardbodies for years and beat the piss out of them, and the KA motor as a whole, even SOHC with the crappy TBI, will provide better performance than a stock L20B with dual SUs. And it's fuel injected, so you can drive it in the winter without 8 million start attempts and bitchy carbs for 30 minutes until the engine warms up.

[Orange620]

a Z22/20b combo is just as good, I don't care about the additional what, 4 mm of crank stroke. The Z22 will run just as hard.

 

If you don't want to do that, just keep the entire KA. I raced my hardbodies for years and beat the piss out of them, and the KA motor as a whole, even SOHC with the crappy TBI, will provide better performance than a stock L20B with dual SUs. And it's fuel injected, so you can drive it in the winter without 8 million start attempts and bitchy carbs for 30 minutes until the engine warms up.

 

You have a real good point. The stroke of a 2.4 KA is only 4mm longer than an early Z22(96mm vs. 92mm), however the rods are 19mm shorter(165mm vs. 145.9). The short rods probably provide at least an equivalent mechanical advantage as far as torque.

 

I suppose the ultimate Torque monster engine using factory parts would be a late Z22 block(supposedly the best Z22 block) with a KA crank(96 mm, forged) and early Z22 rods(shorter and stronger) and Z22 pistons(cheap). If stock pistons could even be used I'm sure the piston skirts would need serious clearancing and the dish enlarged, if possible.

 

Has anyone put a KA crank in a Z22 block?

 

I know fuel injection is superior in every functional way to carbs, but I want the engine to look pre-1976.

 

My BMW 2002 Tii has a cold start valve which is an electrically opened jet that allows extra fuel to be sprayed(at about 100psi) into the the throttle body for a second or two when the engine is started. It starts right now, regardless of cold temps. Its something that could be added to a carb manifold.

 

The thing about SUs I don't like is their lack of electric fuel shut off solenoids. Has anyone solved that?

Edited September 5, 2009 by Orange620

[datzenmike]

I'd also like to use the shorter Z24 rods for additional torque but that would require custom pistons.

 

Z24 rods are the same length as the KA rods. They are 'thicker/stronger' looking than the KA rods but the KA has fully floating pins in them.

 

 

 

You have a real good point. The stroke of a 2.4 KA is only 4mm longer than an early Z22(96mm vs. 92mm), however the rods are 19mm shorter(165mm vs. 145.9). The short rods probably provide at least an equivalent mechanical advantage as far as torque.

 

Longer stroke length will increase torque not rod length. Don't forget that the Z24/KA has 2mm larger diameter pistons on top of the 4mm extra stroke which adds up to about 200cc of increased displacement as well. Never turn down a chance for larger displacement. Rod length increase will cause the piston to accelerate and decelerate closer to top dead center.

 

 

I suppose the ultimate Torque monster engine using factory parts would be a late Z22 block(supposedly the best Z22 block) with a KA crank(96 mm, forged) and early Z22 rods(shorter and stronger) and Z22 pistons(cheap). If stock pistons could even be used I'm sure the piston skirts would need serious clearancing and the dish enlarged, if possible.

 

Has anyone put a KA crank in a Z22 block?

 

The Z24 crank into a Z22/L20B with L20B rods and Z22 pistons producing a 2.3 L hybrid is well documented. However the KA crank is not worth the effort. It won't fit without cutting the crank counterweights but then the KA crank main bearing diameter is, I believe, slightly different than the L20B/Z series. The Z24 fits (with trimming) for sure.

 

I know fuel injection is superior in every functional way to carbs, but I want the engine to look pre-1976.

 

Why '76? L20Bs were around until the end of 1980.

 

 

If you are determined to run the KA then slip Z24 pistons/rods on it to lower the compression and install an open chamber L head. Your compression will still be a monster

[Orange620]

Z24 rods are the same length as the KA rods.

 

Longer stroke length will increase torque not rod length. Don't forget that the Z24/KA has 2mm larger diameter pistons on top of the 4mm extra stroke which adds up to about 200cc of increased displacement as well. Never turn down a chance for larger displacement. Rod length increase will cause the piston to accelerate and decelerate closer to top dead center.

 

Why '76? L20Bs were around until the end of 1980.

 

 

If you are determined to run the KA then slip Z24 pistons/rods on it to lower the compression and install an open chamber L head. Your compression will still be a monster

 

 

I meant Z22 rod.

 

"A short connecting rod exerts more force to the crank pin at any crank angle that counts ie.--20-o ATDC to 70-o ATDC... A short rod would always be the choice for maximum torque"

http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm

 

I recall now that the KA crank has bigger main journals than an L/Z crank so its no good to put in a Z22. However you're right, maybe a Z24 crank in a late Z22 block with early Z22 rods. It would definitely need custom slipper pistons though.

 

In California 1975 is the cut off for smog exemption. Read the "I've been BAR-reffed" thread to see why having an engine at least look smog legal(pre-76) can avoid problems.

[HRH]

Z24 crank in Z22 block won't work unless you're doing custom rods or pistons. It's not tall enough.

 

The KA and Z24 journals are the same size, though I believe you are correct in that they are larger than LZ20/22.

[datzenmike]

 

"A short connecting rod exerts more force to the crank pin at any crank angle that counts ie.--20-o ATDC to 70-o ATDC... A short rod would always be the choice for maximum torque"

http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm

 

 

A shorter rod will more than offset any gains by increasing side loading on the piston against the cylinder walls. A longer rod is always more rev happy. Also they, (http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm) keep mentioning 90 degrees BTDC or BBDC as the cut off for piston speed accelerating and deceleration which is just plain wrong. In order to have maximum piston speed at 90 degrees the rod length would have to be infinite. The L16 rod length of 133mm allows the piston to reach it's maximum speed at 74.5 degrees BTDC and ATDC. At 90 degrees it has already slowed down (if approaching BDC) or is still accelerating (if approaching TDC)

[datzenmike]

The KA and Z24 journals are the same size, though I believe you are correct in that they are larger than LZ20/22.

 

The L, Z and KA(E) rod journals are the same diameter. (KA24DE rods are different)

The L20B, Z22, Z24 and KA crank main journals are the same diameter. My apologies I did say I remembered them being larger than the Z24 but I just measured them the same.

[Icehouse]

Okay I'm not really an engine builder guy, but I'm going to add my 2 cents anyways :D

 

The KA swap is pretty straight forward, with the write-ups out there and some parts from Beebani it will be a quick painless project. I daily drove my KA 620 for thousands of miles, the torque is amazing even with no idle air control valve it still runs better than any carbed L series. Any time I had the hood popped around anyone with an interest in my old truck that wasn't a gear head like us they thought the engine was stock! Not that I'm trying to convince you from doing the swap you want to do. Just sharing my experiences.

 

Now that it's a 4x4 I want to add a turbo, it's a dog on the freeway! We picked up a couple of RB26 turbo's the other day for our KA's!!! YEAH!!!!