Points OH MY!

[bluemeanie]

L series electronic ignition dist.

 

Buddy is having problems with his old points dist.

 

Thanks

Chris

 

503-930-7377

[banzai510(hainz)]

So what does this mean?

Proplems with it

Its just a switch ON/OFF. try new points /condensor. aust the point to .020 gap/ wiggle the dist shaft from side to side to make sure bushin is not worn causing point to open up by itself as it spins.

 

Maybe rove the dist and spin it by hand to make sure the weights didnt fall off and Jam up.

 

If its a single point it can be made to fit a pertronix conversion

 

if dual point just run the main points instead and not use 2 points(works in 3rd gear)

[bluemeanie]

Ok well the truck was running fine and my buddy loved how it drove(Ran like a raped ape). He did a tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotar, points, condenser) ran good for a while until it started acting funny. Truck idles good, smooth at low rpm, good power down low, but when you start getting into the rpm's it starts bogging and shutting off. It also starts blowing mist out of the carb. We've checked the cam timing compared to the crank and the dowel pin is straight up on tdc. Compression test revieled around 195 on all cyl. Tested coil and reads ok. Looks like when the crank is at tdc the rotor is almost past the #1 spot on the cap. So we thought as it advanced with rpm's it got to much advance and jumped to the next plug. We checked where the tang is for the dist and moved that to where it needed to be(11:25 with small part on left) all back together and still same problem. Kinda got me stumped. So he wanted to throw a electronic dist in and see what that got him.

[]2eDeYe]

Just goes to show...

 

If it aint broke, don't fix it ;)

[banzai510(hainz)]

bluemeanie

sounds like you know what your doing.

 

if the timming light shows that its timmed and you can get it inbetween 7-15BTDC I assume the dist/oil pump and everything is timmed correctly.

You have full movement? adv to retard. but you said it was fine then it changed, so I assume its something else.

 

I had a condensor go bad , above idle it would cut out so i assume the spark was jumping underneath the cap. wire loosed up from the ground.

 

when the rotor points to #1 I assume the ppoints are starting to open. that when the coil fires . So you could put a test light on there to find out when exactly it fires or Ohm meter then look to see where the rotor position is in relation to the cap #1 plug wire. you can be off since the contack is about 1/2 long.

 

I wonder if the carb bowl is trying up or fuel delivery proplem.

 

alternator is charging fine. no loose belt( i seen this but rare) causing low current to ignition system.

 

You thought maybe its going out of time?

This happens if its off a tooth on the dist drive /oil pump. you can get it to run if the dist is cranked all the way to one side then push the gas the motor timming will adv then cut out. but you said it was fine then it all of a sudden happen. S I rule this out.

 

If you like replace the fuel filter(cut it open) just to see what your dealing with

 

allso ck to see when you push the gas that you have a nice steady stream in the main barrel. The carb accell pump might be weak. stock carb or weber they get stuck in the IN mode. wd40 it.

[bluemeanie]

I thought it was a carb problem when he first brought it over too. Took the carb apart(weber) and blew all the ports clean. Accelerator pump squirts in primary throat only? There wasnt evena a hole in the secondary part to squirt. Kinda weird. I have not done the work to the engine so i dont know what he's exactly done. Problem started, he putted it around for a while and the headgasket blew, He replaced that and still has problems. Thats why i wanted to double check the cam timing just to make sure he didnt put that back on wrong. Kinda hard to tell with the front cover on, but on tdc the dowel is straight up on the cam. So.... seems funny to me that when we time it with a light at about 10btdc and take the cap off that the part lined up with the #1 wire is on the last 1/4 of the rotor. Any more advance and it has to jump. When we rev the engine up with the timing light on where is the timing suppost to go? The timing retarts a lot when we rev it up. Hmmmm

 

I had better luck with my aircooled rigs or my unimog.

 

Thanks for the help.

[datzenmike]

. When we rev the engine up with the timing light on where is the timing suppost to go? The timing retarts a lot when we rev it up. Hmmmm

 

I had better luck with my aircooled rigs or my unimog.

 

Thanks for the help.

You have a Weber? Where is the vacuum advance on the distributor hooked up to on the carb? If you have full manifold vacuum to the distributor at idle and you set the timing, when you give it throttle the vacuum will drop and so will the timing.

 

The vacuum to the distributor should increase as you rev it up.

[DISLEXICDIME]

are you talking about the guy with green truck that was in vancouver last night?

[Pacific coast Datsun]

I did a EI swap on my 620. Super easy & not too expensive. Heres the writeup & pix...

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=184

[kiznook]

are you talking about the guy with green truck that was in vancouver last night?

 

Yes he is.

 

DatzenMike might be on to something, I didn't even think to look when we were checking it out (dark and rainy :( ) As soon as I saw the mini-vise grips holding the timing plate, I knew that something is up. I told him to START by making sure that everything is timed correctly (seems like it's the first thing to check on these things almost EVERY time there's a timing issue) Then work from there. He should be able to find a EI dizzy in a junkyard locally, I've seen a few, and even bought one; $50ish @tigard u-pull-it that was with some other parts, but I did give them a core (points dizzy)

[banzai510(hainz)]

the accel pump on the carb is in the main barrel. The 2nd barrel does not have one. So I assume that is good.

So they was a head gasket changed??

You dont go by the dowel lined up ,well kinda it should be in the 12oclock position but you look at the V notch and the dash on the plate.

watch this!!!!!!take the time to watch it

http://www.guba.com/general/search?query=datsun&set=5

 

So reaaly know you hav eto be exact with us did it run good then bad after the head gasket change or it just ran bad after the head gasket change?

 

as for the timming plate. does it run better if you remove the 10mm hold down bolt and turn the dist exactlty to #1.???????

 

 

I dont think running out buying a EI ignition is going to work if this cut out already.

I see grandmas still driving point ignition cars ,still running strong. Find out whats the real proplem first. Since there was a head gasket change lets start there and work from that if it was good after the change then went bad or bad after the change so something was hooked up wrong.

[datzenmike]

Yes he is.

 

DatzenMike might be on to something, I didn't even think to look when we were checking it out (dark and rainy :( ) As soon as I saw the mini-vise grips holding the timing plate, I knew that something is up. I told him to START by making sure that everything is timed correctly (seems like it's the first thing to check on these things almost EVERY time there's a timing issue) Then work from there. He should be able to find a EI dizzy in a junkyard locally, I've seen a few, and even bought one; $50ish @tigard u-pull-it that was with some other parts, but I did give them a core (points dizzy)

 

The EI dizzy is a nice up grade, but if the vacuum signal for the advance is at fault, the EI will run the same.

 

With a timing light on, the ignition should advance when reved, not go the other way. Find someone with a Weber and see which vacuum port is connected to the vacuum advance on the distributor. THEN.... get an EI dizzy.

[bluemeanie]

Ok guys i'll do my best here.

 

Yep tom is the guy with the green 620 that stopped by on tuesday night. He has a different way of working on things then i do that explains the mini vice grip :) We checked the drive dog when he first brought it over complaining of the problems. The drive dog for the dist was pointing at 12:00 or a bit past, so we thought we had it figured out. He took it apart and turned it back one tooth. Still ran the same. He could only get the timming mark to show up with a light after he took the dist hold down screw out and moved it past its adjustment point(hence the mini vice grips) He then drove it to my house in vancouver to see if i could help out. We checked the drive dog for the dist and it was in the right position but 180 out so i told him to change that when he got home. He lives in Salem. So he called me yesterday saying he pulled it again, changed it 180 and it still runs the same. I'm trying to get this figured out so he dosent go out and buy new parts without knowing if he needs them yet.

 

I'm watching this video now that you linked me to and want to think you now. Very informative and something i could watch instead of tv any day.

 

After thinking about what i saw the timing was advancing when we revved the engine and not retarding. It almost seems that the timing between the drive socket on the dist and the rotor has moved. It still is on the trailing edge of the rotor when timed with a light.

 

Problem occured after the tune up, but not exactly after. Maybe a week or two went by before it got bad. Is there any difference between a L16, L18, or L20 dist cap?

 

Well i'll finish up this movie here and see what else i can learn.

 

Thanks again guys

 

Chris

[bluemeanie]

Ol tom just called and said the v in the cam gear and the dash dont line up!!! so he's gonna work on that and let me know.

 

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Later

[banzai510(hainz)]

dial the motor exactly to TDC on the crank.then ck the Cam marks and the dist spindal position. Its should be as photoed

 

the 180 deg out is not big deal just move the spark plug wires. all it knows is 1 3 4 2 CCW fire order

 

to me if he had to use the vice grips(mini C clap is good) to dial it in to get to say 10BTDC with a timming light. I say he is still off a tooth.

also on back side of the dist there is a 8mm bolt that can move the timming plate more adv/retard if you like.

 

Now maybe poit the oil condensor back in ir ck to see that the suff is tighen down(ground wire)

 

Now once its timmed and the eleltrical looks good then lets proceed to something else

 

 

L16 use a smaller cap

and the later l18sand the L20s motors use a bigger cap

 

new jap chains will have a brite link that goes on the dimple of th cam and lower crank sproket(idiot proof)

[bluemeanie]

Well heard from tom and he said that his problems are fixed! The cam was advanced by 1 tooth. He got his top end power back and thanks everyone for there help.

[banzai510(hainz)]

he shoould have had a proplem right off the bat if it was off a tooth(after head gasket change), not after a tune up

but its fixed now.I hope.

[bluemeanie]

thats what i thought, but i didnt do the work and could only take tom for what he told me. Glad he's on the road again. Now he's gotta work on keepin the cops off him with all his regained power!

 

Thanks guys