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L20 Head on KA24 Block?


Orange620

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Yes it could be done, the cylinder and bolt spacings are the same. But why would you? The KA has far superior breathing and EFI. You would have the same as an L24 using a Z block but it would weigh about 100 lb more and have insanely high compression of around 11.77!!! I suppose you could sub Z24 pistons into it for 9.4

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I'd like the look and simplicity of an L20 engine with the 2.4 stroke and forged crank and rods.

 

It sounds like the main advantage over a Z block would be to not have to cut down the ounterweights, rebalance the crank and clearance the crankcase.

 

I would use some kind of the dished pistons to lower the compression.

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There was an Australian thread on another place I read a while back. Some of the water passages in the head need to be welded shut, and you will need to make a custom chain, which is another annoyance. I like the idea, but personally I'd go with the whole KA for all that trouble.

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I'd like the look and simplicity of an L20 engine with the 2.4 stroke and forged crank and rods.

 

It sounds like the main advantage over a Z block would be to not have to cut down the ounterweights, rebalance the crank and clearance the crankcase.

 

I would use some kind of the dished pistons to lower the compression.

 

If you put an L head on a Z24 you don't have to cut the crank down, same as a KA motor. You are only swapping the head.

 

Z24 pistons have a 15cc dish and as stated would only drop the compression to 9.4

 

I would just use a Z24 block the pistons are already in it, same stroke as the KA and much lighter engine. Either one would make the exact same power so why the heavier KA block?

 

 

There was an Australian thread on another place I read a while back. Some of the water passages in the head need to be welded shut, and you will need to make a custom chain, which is another annoyance. I like the idea, but personally I'd go with the whole KA for all that trouble.

 

Yes but this was a KA head on an L20B block. There are two oil drain back holes on the back of the KA head. The one on the driver's side would connect with a coolant passage in the L block so we could assume that the L head would leak water into the KA block. One or the other would need welding shut.

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Would require some welding and machining of the timing cover also... custom chain... 2.4L L-series has been done, several ways... LZ24... search for that...

 

Hang_510 has an LZ24 I believe. The L timing cover is 2cm short when fitted to the Z24 (or the KA) motor.

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If you put an L head on a Z24 you don't have to cut the crank down, same as a KA motor. You are only swapping the head.

 

Z24 pistons have a 15cc dish and as stated would only drop the compression to 9.4

 

I would just use a Z24 block the pistons are already in it, same stroke as the KA and much lighter engine. Either one would make the exact same power so why the heavier KA block?

 

 

 

 

Yes but this was a KA head on an L20B block. There are two oil drain back holes on the back of the KA head. The one on the driver's side would connect with a coolant passage in the L block so we could assume that the L head would leak water into the KA block. One or the other would need welding shut.

 

What about the reputation Z24 blocks have for cracking. Is it overstated? Will the KA crank go in the Z22 block as is?

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I used to know a guy with a LZ24 he daily drove it in his wagon. All he did to deal with the front cover being to short was use some silicone. It leaked a little but what daily driven L series doesn't :D

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What about the reputation Z24 blocks have for cracking. Is it overstated? Will the KA crank go in the Z22 block as is?

 

The KA crank will not fit the Z24 block. The rod bearing size is the same but not the mains.

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It leaked a little but what daily driven L series doesn't :D

:eek:

the leak around the Z24 cover/L head is minor and if put together well, took a while to be an issue. its a mismatch of parts...sooooo close and hardly any RTV!

im having the Z24 cover modded... actully its done ;) just gotta go get it! :D

 

 

the LZ22 wont leak! :fu:

 

 

the L or Z block cracks are true, but the problem is overstated.

unless your going high comp >10:1 or so, its not likely to even be an issue.

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...the L or Z block cracks are true, but the problem is overstated.

unless your going high comp >10:1 or so, its not likely to even be an issue.

 

An L/Z owner hearing the work crack is like a woman screaming over a mouse. Sure the crack could be serious... and the mouse could run up your leg. But most of the time it isn't and it doesn't.

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What about the other way around? I am looking for the shortest motor possible. L20 block and KA24E head? I have both at my disposal is why I ask. I think I read somewhere in there that the l20 block is shorter than the KA block.

 

 

Good lord you guys know so much!

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KA head on an L20b could work... but the power gain from the twin cam setup would be negligible, plenty of power can be made with the L head. I will admit this sounded great on paper to me at one time, but in my case it turned out to be more work than its worth. Especially when theres complete KAs which already make way more power than an L20b already for super cheap.

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