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It's called sandpaper. No no, just kidding, When I used to do bodywork we used a product called Rustmort, we got at the paint shop we used. I've also used sodium hydroxide and it works really well but be very watchful if you dip aluminum, it eats it up quick and have lots of water nearby. You can make it by mixing 1 can of Red devil lye with 2 gallons water in a plastic bucket.

Edited by whitechef
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Hydrochloric pool acid. Works *REALLY* well, but is also highly toxic, and will eat your skin. It's really sweet for small parts though, just buy the 5 gallon tub, let the parts sit in there for an hour, and all the rust is gone. Hose the parts off with brake cleaner instead of water so they don't immediately rust again. I keep a 5 gallon jug on the side of the house for small parts.

 

You can brush it on larger panels, but it usually eats the brush.

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..hhmm...I like the brake clean idea to stop the flash rust.

 

Word of warning about having the bucket close to the house. If the lid doesn't seal well, the vapors will eat metal items in the vacinity. You'll end up with a bright orange rust on any bare metal near it :)

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If you want to actually fully remove rust, POR-15 is not the right product. BUT, POR-15 is an awesome product that actually encapsulates rust. So you basically wire wheel the rust and get the chunks off, and then brush it on. So if you have a floorboard that has rust, but it's not through yet, then POR-15 is ideal for that. Encapsulates everything and prevents it from getting worse. I used it on a 521, and parts of a 510.

 

There's also a 2 part epoxy POR product which also works wonders. Even available in clear, which I used on the steel front door of my house.

 

They are expensive, but worth the money.

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Also with the acid....you don't want to forget the part in there....it will eat the good metal once it's done with the rust.

 

There's a rust removal thread on this forum with several other options.

 

There's a rust remover available at HF too...it actually seems to work pretty nicely. Not as fast as acid, but a lot safer!! Molasses is the cheapest/safest.....but extremely slow and not suited for stuff like body panels and floor boards.

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ive used naval jelly. you can get that at any home depot or lowes. i worked it into the rust with a wire brush. its smelly though, and i probably wouldnt do it again. it will strip everything that it contacts, so prep well. lots of options out there.

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check these guys out... some sweet sh*t

http://www.safestrustremover.com/

 

I used the safest rust remover on my floor boards and other parts. For the floor boards, I built a funnel underneath to a bucket. Got a fish tank pump, with hose and just plugged it in and let it flow over the flooor boards. 24 hours later no more rust...washed it and applied POR15.

 

The Safest Rust Remover is costly but its biodegrable, non-toxic, which is why I went with it. If you use it, make sure its in a cool place out of the heat and sun due to its evaporation rate. Another advantage to it is that its reusable, just pour it through a filter to clean out the crud and your set to use it for the next set of parts. It fully removes paint and anodizing too.

 

Forgot to mention, it will NOT remove POR15 that has been properly applied.

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didn't happen if you didn't take pics :)

 

Any chance you did? Would love to see before/after...even the setup during.

 

The paint/anodizing removal is intriguing :)

 

I can show a pic of the pre-rust removal, but now it has POR15 and Bed Liner over it, so no after pics.

 

picture.php?albumid=51&pictureid=1596

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