bonvo Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 where can i buy them? im looking at buying a cam but it doessnt come with lashpads whats a good place to get them Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 did u get any money from them mother fuckers yet? or what sn hainz prolly knows bout lash pads Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 theres a post on olddatsuns.com on part#s i had a listing of some part#s YOu really need to get close with waht you think you need. If you buy a new cam most are close to .160 Like a Isky cam. If regrind it can be up to .190 .200 size lash pads. maybe best to buy a kit. I have a selection of lashpads but its also based on how much the head,valve stems and valve seats are machine too sometimes. Jus tbuying a cam cause you got it cheap dont help with unknown specs Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 where can i buy them? im looking at buying a cam but it doessnt come with lashpads whats a good place to get them a place that sells em w/the cam!!! new cam = new rockers... :eek: $$$ still avail from nissan. otherwise find a set that falls in your pocket w/the matching arms/lashcaps at the local JY. i look for a Z the get the best 8 ;) some have been flat, some have a divot (which are a hard to measure w/a standard caliper) Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 sorry my bad i have cam specs :P im looking at eather the 94a grind which has lift: .430 duration: 248 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Persoanlly I would get a bigger cam. Those size you could get away with the stock valve springs for sure and maybe even retainers. But Im not knowing the size lash pad you need. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 bigger huh lol im looking for a streetable cam what sould your recomend hainz Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I would start with L20 first!!!!!this might even be cheaper for power than recamming a L16/18 I do have the webcamshaft 488/252 cam but not installed I have a 475/275 Isky clone in a L16(mybeater) with sidedrafts I had a Schneider 460/260 in my other L16 on my521 and said that cam shold have come stock on that motor. But a real cam change can cost some money. If possible get a L20 if your running a smaller motor. As I dont know what you have right now. cams work best if you have sidedraft carbs to be honest with ya. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 i currently have a l20b in my car so i need somthing bigger :D it is gonna get sidedrafts eventually but for now its gonna get a weber if i have to ill fattin it up real good :P Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 personally I do like the cam that hainz recommended but if your just gunna be running a 32-36 weber d.d. its gunna be hard to make it idle good Lisas 521 currently has a L20b with some port work done to the closed chamber head (cant remember what head) with some big cam (rebello grind, he like to keep stuff secret???) but the damn thing doesnt like to Idle below 1300rpm real lumpy sounding its the biggest cam you can run with stock springs and no spray bar. I would collect the side drafts and then go with the cam for now just get back behind the wheel and drive her just the way it is... just my .02 cents :D Clayton Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 I would collect the side drafts and then go with the cam for now just get back behind the wheel and drive her just the way it is... just my .02 cents :D Clayton money well spent :thumbup: find another head and build it while still being drivable. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 I 2nd getting a cam with the proper lash pads as a kit. Maybe its just me but I find it very annoying to figure out which it needs after the fact. Idk about new rockers but at the least get them refinished, it is a must. I would also get the carbs before the cam. Cam is more a support mod imo if nothing is there to support then...... Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted June 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 im just trying to find places to source the parts i plan on doing it all at one time when the insurance comes in do any of you know where to get a cam with lashpads? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Isky. .480 = 710148 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 sorry my bad i have cam specs :P im looking at eather the 94a grind which has lift: .430 duration: 248 Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted June 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Isky. .480 = 710148 got a link? i cant seem to find a webpage Quote Link to comment
Mesh-71 Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 http://iskycams.com/cart/ymm.php?keyword=710148 try this Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 http://iskycams.com/cart/ymm.php?keyword=710148 try this TY, the browser was locking up. i got lucky buying mine, got NEW, not a regrind :D new retainers/springs too. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted June 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 (edited) http://iskycams.com/cart/ymm.php?keyword=710148 try this if im reading it right the lift is :.480 and the duration is: 280 deg and acording to this it comes with lashpads and it has more lift and duration then both of the cams i was looking at i dont mind if it idles a little high as long as its lumpy and has usable power in the lower rpm ranges hainz you have similar specs in your beater how is drivability on the street? Edited June 4, 2009 by bonvo Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 I just wrote a lengthy thing about what I did and it didnt take!!!!!! make a long story short. Cams cost alot. and works best w/sidedrafts carbs otherwise you say why did I spend all this money. best bang for the buck is maybe the weber 38DGES carb but right off idle on a hill can kill it if you CLUTCH it wrong. hog out the stock manifold where the carb sit on. smooth out the edges. build a motor on the side. I have a L16 as the drivablity is harder than a stock motor but I drive it all the time. just have to wind it up more. a L20 will be better and 40mm carbs wpuld be prefered on the street. Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 My 2 cents here. I have a 450 lift 268 dur. regrind and it is nice. I used 160 lash pads and it works great. Its only on a L16 right now so not really anything fast. Great on the highway when already spinning 4K but from a stop light its a slow get up. No way can I do a good burnout on dry pavement. Maybe a little sqwuak. Stock L20b will do powerbreakers till the tires fall off. My friend got a cam ground to 460 and we threw 170 lash pads at it and they are right on. For a larger regrind cam I would go up 10 thousandths on the lash pad for every 10 thou of lift. Like for a 480 regrind I would speculate 190 lash pads would be right. Anything over 460 will require comp springs and taller lash pad retainers. For a new cam you should contact the manufacturer for lash pad specs. A cam grinder can also recondition your rockers for cheap too. used L20b=maybe 200-400$$ cam grind $85,lash pads $50,springs$100+?,pad retainers $65?,reconditioned rockers $40 and you get minor improvements. You do the math. Do the cam last. Build a nice big motor and build your way up to it. Quote Link to comment
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