Stupid_fast

Sounds like a contact problem? Check the electrical connections on your OD switch? Sounds like its loose.

High beams don't come on either. Oh I see, it was getting wavering 9~11v when I had my multimeter up to it... I will clean out everything and see if I can get em working. Thanks. edit, fixed lights, was a stupid ground problem something I caused when I did the alternator. I mistook the ground for a shorted wire, somehow. The lights, high beams, turn signals, reverse lights, ect all working now with nice custom ground wires. There is still some delay in the turn signals, about 1 second its more of an inconvenience from what I'm use to. The only thing not working is the wiper motor and interior stuff! I still have to pull the heater plastic stuff out to get to that connector, gonna clean it and hope I can get it working. It would suck having to drive to LA with no heater if it gets cold! AC does not matter, I have windows! Still might get a little electric fan for inside... For the wiper motor, any ideas? Is the best option to upgrade the wiper motor or have it rebuilt? Or but a NOS one?

Hmm, the dash was not fully assembled so the inside indicators where not working, that's probably the cause. Headlights don't work at all, the lights under the headlights come on when I flip the switch, but that's it. They are getting voltage, and they worked before when I had none of the engine stuff hooked up. I'm trying to figure out what I changed, but its a bit weird. Having voltage means its probably a ground issue, I'm just not sure how to pinpoint it. I'll check the heater fan connections and see if I can get em working. I'll use some connection cleaner stuff on them... Should help. Thanks.

K, I swapped around the blinker pots and now both emergency flashers and regular are working ... But theres some ~1 second delay in the switch. Is that normal? I was able to jump the reverse lights, so I know they work. I just have to wire them up! As for the headlights, the connectors are getting ~11v when the switch is on... so probably bad ground? Ideas on how to troubleshoot it quickly? The wiper motor is not getting any power when I flip the switch on ... Also the heater fan does not work... :( Thanks!!

OK well if you think you can do it, go ahead and try. But I just want you to know you wont be driving it for a while!! I thought the 1uz outputted more than that... Yeah it was a little bit of a hasty comment. I was taking more about some 400hp v8 going through a stock diff.

Not literally, I'm talking complete imbalance of power, handling, braking, ect. The skill and fab work required for the swap, ect. I just really want you to know what you are going into. A powerful engine does not mean anything if nothing else is up to the same performance level. If you have the budget and cash to build up this car, reinforce it with a good suspension setup, differential, ect then it will be a very very quick car, but if you do not then you will end up with a completely unusable car that wont be fun to drive. I don't want to discourage the swap as it would be very cool, but I really just doubt how much skill, knowledge and experience you have! I'm not saying I have it, I'm saying its a long hard learning process! I have messed around with a toyota 7MGE, just doing the headgasket its several times more complex than the Datsun L motor, I hate to see what a 1uz is like diving in with no experience. As long as you understand that, sure go ahead and try - but if you do not have anyone to help you that has the knowledge a fuel injected motor like that is going to be a complete pain.

^this. Your doing a 1uz swap with not even enough cash to buy an automatic transmission from a junk yard? I did the same thing but for a 510 with L series engine, and I just barely got it running a year later. I don't know what kind of experience you have, but being 15 I really doubt you can do this. Can you even drive yet? And you want a 1uz in a 2000lb non-reinforced chassis? I don't wanna sound like a dick, but come on man. Its not gonna happen. There are plenty of great engines that wont rip the chassis in half! A great example is this thread, in short this will most likely happen to a non reinforced chassis with a stupidly powerful engine... This is an extreme example, of course. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34751-why-ford-is-better-than-chevy/ I don't want to put you down or say you cannot do anything, but I really want you to understand what you are proposing before you realize how hopeless it is with no budget. IMO just spend the money on a cheap L series and motor, drop it in and get it running, get the experience of working on a SIMPLE engine that is easy to learn on. I just did this, and I could not be more happy with the result!

I would want to! I'm still planning things with the rest of my family but I may be able to make it. I'm also going to try to get my brother to bring his ZX, it would be cool to have a bunch of datsuns heading down in a group. It would be 9-9-11, though.

Classic GTO??

Arent those the custom 18's that sold on here a while back?! They where on a metallic blue car?? Looks illest.

Cool, thanks. I was wondering what those wires were for!!

I will try that tonight. Thanks. Also something I thought of, the reverse lights don't work. I have a new switch in the transmission, but where are the wires to hook it up?

Yeah, I have the fenders. One is OK, some rust, the other one was from a brown car because this one was wrecked at one point. Its pretty straight for its condition and handles fine with the new suspension luckily. I have the one that was brown stripped down, I'm still working on getting them done. I will finish the body work this weekend. As for the bumpers, I have them but they are rusted pretty bad on the inside. I'm probably going to only run the rear one for a while. Not sure yet. Thanks, btw!! its a lot more ratty in person, but its not bad.

OK I will check all that. I checked the fuses last night with a mutlimeter, they where all good. its weird the lights worked before with none of the engine stuff hooked up. The emergency lights work, they flash correctly. Its only the turn signals, they are solid lights... Kinda annoying having to throw my hand out the window to change lanes safely.

Already did, they worked before when I had none of the engine stuff plugged in ... I'm trying to figure out what changed.

Argh!! The headlights don't work now!! Is there something in the alt circuit that could effect them? Maybe not having the side markers installed ?? Thanks...

I checked that fuel line again, even at maximum droop in its full range of movement it will never get less than ~10mm from the fan blade. Thanks. The 14's are really cool. But I'm pretty sure some of them are bent!! :( The front ones where wobbling, might have just been the ancient tires. I will take them to a shop once I have the cash and maybe throw some really sticky tires on them for racing. You have to really see the 13's in person to appreciate them, but maybe not the best on this car's color. eventually I think I'm gonna get some silver RB's then eventually to Japanese style rims. Once the carburetor is sorted out, and the exhaust is tamed this is going to be a really really fun car! The roadster clutch and lightweight flywheel allow for lightning quick shifts, that are also smooth!!

Well, it nearly overheated twice on me... Found the problem!! the dizzy bolt was not tight enough and the ignition retarded itself!! Its now running fine. I showed it off to the Z guy at kragans. I thought it was too lean, but after I fixed the timing I tuned it and its running good now, ~1000rpm idle. Should run better with a full exhaust system, I am going to troy's on tuesday. Eh? Its stainless braided sleeving, its not going anywhere!! And yes, its secured with hose clamps!

Ahh lol FML, I was rotating the engine by hand. Cranked with starter and nearly fiented at these results... 170-170-170-170. all +/- around 3psi deviation WHAT?!?!?! PERFECT!?!?! With throttle opened, ect... It seems to be overheating when I tune the idle mixture depending... whats going on? too lean? But the engine is running rich!!

Well... Just hit about 20 miles, and did a comp test... 65-65-65-80.... WTF!!!! I must be doing something wrong...

They where wired before I got the car... So I assume that's the reason. Thanks. Took it out again, seems to be running really rich.. .some backfiring on engine breaking still. timed to 12BTDC, valve lash checked... Checking the compression right now.

Ha, thanks . Yeah threaded would be great I still gotta figure a better mounting solution out. Maybe I'll epoxy it, re-drill and thread.. would that work ? I think I drilled it too far out to thread it. :( I actually got some other type of goop glue stuff that didnt really work, so its not fully secure.. it will rotate around a bit. Kinda ghetto, NOT ratsun. I'm probably going to get a carpet kit so the huge hole in the center console is covered, so at least stones/little things wont be flying up through there. I had my dime to 50-60 and honestly I didn't notice it. Probably cause of the open headers, though. I'm gonna call troy ermish later this week and ask if they can get my exhaust system welded back in. Rad mounting is solid!! awesome. Hood pins hold really well, no problems there. Also my turn signals don't work, They are just solid lights. :( I picked up a timing light tonight, talked to the Z guy at kragan, ect. Gonna time and tune the car tomorrow then take it for a proper spin!!(Not literally..)

I will be there. With my datsun!