metalmonkey47

Tomorrows project is gonna be some hardware and a cam gear for my Z20

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P135360GAWs

Here's the progress after it went underway. At 10 amps for one hour, there wasn't a huge difference, but it was noticeable. I didn't even notice until after about two hours that the positive lead on the sacrificial anode was loose, so that slowed the process more. I still have to refine the rig, but this is some seriously cool shit. By the time I had turned it off for the night, the rust around the petcock holes had melted away. I could literally wipe it off the surface of the metal as if it was nothing. I FOUND A CURE FOR CANCER.

After much contemplation, I've decided to finally toy with some chemistry using a process called electrolytic rust removal. I starter with a big tub I bough from the local Wally World, filled it with 7 gallons of water, and 7 table spoons of baking soda. Next step was to find some steel (NOT stainless) to use as a sacrificial anode. I didn't have much at the moment, so I grabbed some old thing I welded together a while back when I was playing around. Wasn't the best choice, since it was small and electrolysis is just line of sight really, and surface area was kind of small, but still yielded great results. Won't get too in-depth since google can provide more info then I have time to type, but here's what I've come up with on my first attempt. ATTEMPT #1: Kawasaki gas tank. I dipped it, and used the petcock bolt as a ground, so i didn't have to strip any of the nice paint in order to get a good ground. It's old and filled with rust, so theres no way I was going to try and use it as is. This is what I started with: The charger I used was an old battery charger my dad acquired in his years.It's got a 2/10/50 amp selection, so I decided to go with it for the first shot.

Honestly, difficulty depends on how mechanically inclined you are. First time I ever did it, it was a PITA and hated it. But now I can get the transmission off my car in under 20 minuets on ramps and do a clutch job in about an hour.

Lol! Touche my dirty homo friend, touche!

So uh HRH I hear its kinda dark in the closet. Is that what team CF is about? Lulz :rofl:

Flagged for best of craigslist :rofl: lol'ing right here

Motherfuckers.... I've made it to 88 MPH before on flat land

Flatcat's new music video! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3itWzrioElo&ob=av2n

:rofl: Alright Charlie Sheen! While you've been bangin 6 gram crack rocks, team PF has been taking over the world. Thank you for the laughs sir, you're a gentleman, and a scholar!

Come on Flatcat, don't get emotional :rofl: It's like George Bush vs. Ronald Reagan up in this bitch. Team CF < PF

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Fixed

Hey HRH, Skib told me you're afraid of the dark. Bad experiences in the closet? :rofl:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EB00/121G.oap?keyword=121g Can't wait to get it! 1970's here I come!

It's team PMfuckery vs. team CF. Classy battle here we go!

Good woman is good!

*cough cough* http://community.ratsun.net/topic/28097-canam-production-easy-wiring-boxes-for-efi-works-for-kas-srs-vgs-cas-and-more/

lulz, skib is around, trust me. Everyone needs a break sometime, I guess this is one of those times.

http://en.wikipedia....Ignition_timing Ignition timing is adjusted by rotating your distributor clockwise (advanced) and counter clockwise (retard). Chances are if you never pulled your distributor your ignition timing is correct. Or at least close enough to run. You need 3 basic things to make an old engine run: A: Fuel/Air B: Compression C: Spark And it all needs to be happening at the right time. 1: Intake 2: Compression 3: Combustion 4: Exhaust What you have to look at is what's changed, and what you know isn't working right. Solve one problem at a time. Find what's causing your carb flooding first, and if that doesn't solve it, at least that's one less problem to worry about.