metalmonkey47

Bump?

Enough LED's to light up a runway

z20E was front sump too. (200sx motor)

Thanks for the advice mate!! Summit racing is local, so I'm gonna try to go take a look at the cell. reviews look pretty good , so I'm excited for that. They sell it with the foam in it, so I am going to get that at the same time. I made some measurements today, and it looks like the cell will fit well between the frame rails in the back under the bed, so I have lots of room to bolt and weld on the frame for braces. Seems like this truck is built for a cell! The only other problem I've noted is that the exhaust runs over the rear axle where I want the cell to sit, so what I'm going to have to do is run the exhaust a different route in order to properly mount the tank safely..

Anyone got pics of a 620 sitting on 15x10's? All the way around preffered, just trying to get some ideas though. Aero or Diamonds if ya got pictures of those! Thanks

I wish it was that easy. lol I've sourced a few, but haven't had a chance to go take a look. I doubt they're in much better condition then the one I already have though, but it's worth a look.

It's nothing immediate, but I'm toying with the idea. In order to have a nice datto, ya gotta know how to fabricate. I've been wanting to do something big like this for some time. I have all the tools. The spare tire can sit in the bed like a bawse! Old school style I'll just get a nice little wheel and put a decent tire on it. EDIT: This will also move a lot of weight towards the back practically over the rear axle. Little bit better traction for slippery driving.

Alright guys, hours picked up work so I'm trying to get a few things straightened out. Primarily, my fuel leak. My stock tank has a leak at the seam about half way up that I've tried repairing and sealing, but is past gone. I was quoted $170-200 to be repaired the correct way locally, which got me thinking, why not just put in a little bit better tank? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-290100/?rtype=10 I thought about mounting it where the spare tire sits (gotta make measurements first.) The tank straps up to the frame at two points. The next problem that I came up with, is that in the event of a rear collision it needs to be protected. I was inspired by this car below. The idea is to take some 1'' square steel tubing and weld a frame around the tank that bolts to the frame at 4 points, two on each side. The next problem is filling the gas tank. Easy solution: Cut out an insert in the bed and put it on a hinge. Gas door! Get a cheap door lock and it's done I'm just kind of playing with this idea, because it seems like something that is well within my range of fabrication. I'm just looking for input at the moment.

Nice man! The stance is great Where in GA are you located?

^This. Get a ballast resistor in there and you'll be alright.

I never thought they were bad. Keep in mind, the resteraunts aren't ALL the same, so the one you happen to not like may not reflect them as a whole much. My cousin works at one in South Bend Indiana, and we stopped for a burger and I was more then impressed. The burger wasn't the best I've ever had, but the amount of food for the money is awesome. The fries come in buckets. lol (Not literally) Service is quick, people are nice, but like I said that doesn't speak for them all.

IBTL

Whatever you do, fix it right. Don't fix it ghetto.

Bled the slave, and I have a LITTLE more, but still abnormal slippage. I got ready to adjust the slave, which I believe is going to do it 100%, and realized that their are no adjustment nuts on the slave I have a funny feeling the pushrod got put back in backwards when the slave was bolted back in. I was just given the day off of work by my awesome boss, so I'm going to find out tomorrow. The slave is leaking, and I have one in stock at my Autozone so I'm going to just get a new one on tomorrow.

The collar did not change. I put on the new release bearing as identical as it gets to the old one.

Alright guys, I'm continuing an ignorant, and probably simple problem to this thread, because I don't want to fuck something up on all my fresh new parts. Fresh clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the pedal is soft and the clutch slips excessively. I have full movement of all the hydraulics, and the clutch is disengaging the flywheel 100%. With the pedal out all of the way, I have LITTLE friction. There is a tiny grab on the clutch, but not enough to hardly move the truck. The first thing that came to mind is slave cylinder adjustment since it was out of the truck, but that wouldn't explain the excessively soft pedal. Everything internal should be 100% perfect and was triple checked before bolting the transmission back in.

PM-Sent

Looks solid. Someone get this!

Got it guys. The trans was missing two bolts at the top when we pulled it, but I've gotten some nice shiny new ones in there. The truck is bolted back up and running. The only problem I have now is that when my foots on the pedal, the pedal is soft and I have little friction. With the clutch in, I have full movement of the hydraulics and no grinding that I had before, with a soft pedal. The clutch disengages and I CAN put it in gear but with the pedal out I have very little friction. ^^Ignore that, I'm moving this to a new thread since I'm in a hurry to trouble shoot and drive it.

Clutch is UP. Transmission is bolted in and the release bearing is brand freaking new. Didn't notice anything else odd and it all went together right, so were bolting in the crossmember now. Here's the OICS.

Thanks Mike, I went ahead and slid it in. I figured it would be stupid to take a chance and leave it out and I only spent a few minuets stuffing it back in over the bearing.

Also, I have a simple question. GM Synchromesh is GL4 and yellow metal safe fluid. IS IT SAFE IN MY TRANSMISSION? Simple yes/no. Thanks guys

Whatever size it is happens to be the same size as factory. The clutch and pressure plate both fit perfect on it

Had some loud scratching when the clutch was depressed, which I always figured was throwout bearing, but after pulling the flywheel, I noticed the plate behind it looks like it was ground into against the flywheel, and the starter has a big chunk ground out as well. The transmission isn't factory, and has a junkyard tag on it, and the flywheel has A87 cast into is, and the block is marked U67. The new pressure plate matches up to the flywheel. Don't know if this is any problem, but I want to make sure before bolting it all back together. Dunno why I always seem to get the weird stuff over here