sick620

So the frame was a PL521 frame and no modifications were needed to run that L18 and transmission it all bolted up correctly. Your cab is definitely a bit earlier "J" cab as indicated by that cowl plate since your floor had to be cut to accommodate the L Series transmission. Fenders are later model like your frame or later, as well as bed. So possibly someone had a wrecked or beat up PL521 that needed a cab and they found a parts truck.... Our 1969 truck was from florida originally and although spec wise it is obviously a 1969 it is titled as a 1970 simply because it took so long to get them across the country so by the time it sold it was titled later. I tell everyone we have a 1969 521 because that is technically what it is... Seems like you are in the opposite situation, titled as 69 because of your cab, but it is really a 1970 because of frame, fenders, and bed. Also I want to add that there is a reasonable chance that is an imported JDM motor. My first datsun was a 79 620. It had an L18 with A87 peanut head (not a combo that came in that year). Ended up being a "peanut head" and was a jdm imported motor. In the 80's and 90's it was sometimes cheaper to import a low mileage Jdm motor for these trucks apposed to rebuilding, and L18 is a rare motor in the USA otherwise... If so I have a running L20B on an engine stand I'll trade you 😉 haha JK but worth taking apart for rebuild and seeing if it is in fact a peanut head.

Hmm edited my comment... I guess 69 had L16 as an option? or possibly 1st half of 69 trucks were L521 and second half were PL521? That's crazy. A little ratsun research and I see now that 69 and before had the round markers, and 70 and after had square, So your truck has different fenders and bed, or someone titled it as a 1969 slow loris.

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I have a few questions I need help with: Anyone have any idea what compression this will be at with normal a14 dished pistons, a12gx closed chamber, and .8mm head gasket? What is the max amount the head can be shaved without effecting pushrods? This head has water ports for intake manifold. If I bolt an intake to it with no water ports will it seal and not leak? My temporary a14 intake has no water ports. When a get or make an after market intake it also will have no water ports. Head oiling- This a12gx head I believe was oiled via a hole in block. A14 had the oiling single head bolt. I am assuming it will be fine as long as I run the oiling head bolt again in correct position? Is a12 timing chain setup same as a14? Like I can take all the a12 bits and install them in a14?

I sent you a PM. You'll have to come out to payette sometime. We got 3 datsuns at our house right now, picking up another one in a week or two. We used to have a little datsun truck club in the area in like 2010. There are still a few of those guys that get together for car shows and stuff but they have all long ago left ratsun.net unfortunately.

Our truck is a 69. I thought that they all came with l16 in 69 I guess I was wrong. Also 69 had the little round side markers. Not the square ones that yours has. So some things have obviously been swapped around on this truck.. If you need any parts or help working on it we are in Payette Idaho. Come by some time and we will lower it 😉

Now I’m seeing them for some reason.. I like the wheels it has on it would look sweet lowered more with some small flares

Chrome plated I believe. It was purchased for $20 in the 1970s and never ran. Purchased from a guy in my town along with some other rare 1200 parts.

and you are also in idaho! what part?

Pictures not showing up for me either

I would like to bump this to see if anyone has ever ran one with good or bad results?

yes .8mm No sneaking anything past you 😄

here are the cam specs.. purchased in 1971 and never ran.. probably kind of a lot of cam for my build but I’m running since I have it… so far the plan is: A14 block bored .030 over with new pistons (the pistons were cheap and available) Arp rod bolts balanced crank shaft nismo .8mm head gasket 290 cannon cam a12gx head with very mild bowl clean up and a tiny bit of polishing otherwise stock with original dual springs I will probably lighten the flywheel I got some aluminum brazing rod and plan on trying to repair my cracked a14 intake either with that or just some jb weld as a temporary solution so I can run this motor with an old 32/36 Weber and a series adapter that I already have… that way I can enjoy the b210 while I decide whether I’m going with bike carbs or biting the bullet and buying an expensive mikuni carb setup and headers… let me know what you think of my planned setup.. probably won’t rev as high until I get the better flowing carb and headers, and obviously wont make as much power until then either, but phase one will be getting the long block running and driving in the car, then focus on the bolt ons. I think its crazy that I have been planning this build then a guy just happens to stop by my house with a rare performance head and cam for pennies on the dollar.

picked up this polished valve cover for my little A14 build for this car. Here is is after spending a half hour with some mothers aluminum polish while sitting on the couch. Also picked up an A12GX head and 290 duration cam.

Mike does steel intake not eventually rust when exposed to gasoline because of water content? Seems like people shy away from making steel intakes usually for some reason

Ok yeah I think the simplest solution is to run some old bike carbs and have someone make me a flange and tube intake.. do you think my old A14 exhaust mani will flow well enough? I’m not a big fan of steel headers

Ok so the 1200 wiki shows that this is the head I probably have. A12 gx. Pretty sweet score I’d say. The issue is I have no intake manifold that fits it properly and it is a rare head… it was rebuilt in the 70s for an scca race car and never installed so I’ll probably do a simple port and polish, a quick valve lap to make sure everything is sealing good and replace the valve guides and run this head as is.. do you think there is any benefit upgrading to the nismo or isky valve springs over these stock gx springs to make it a more high reving motor? Any ideas or leads on intakes ? So far all I can find are intakes from Japan for mikuni carbs or dual Weber and all are between $500-800… I do have mikuni carbs but they have a l series intake already and I was going to save them for the 510…I guess these had hitachi su carbs from the factory but I can’t find one of those intakes for sale, maybe I will need to have some bike carb intakes made and run some r1 carbs or something? That seems like it may be a bit more cost effective.. or maybe I can port the hell out of a small oval port intake from a a14 or a15? I already have an Aseries Weber downdraft adapter and a 32/36 Weber… all I can find so far

It has no markings there at all.. just Nissan Japan otherwise no markings ..

Does anyone know what head I have here? Seems like a gx head possibly? It is closed chamber and dual valve spring.. the valves are a tiny bit smaller than my a14 head but just barely smaller, but the ports are bigger.

we did it boys no gap. @mklotz70your video was very helpful. I just drilled a small hole near the end of column for that anti rotational bolt…then tightened everything down. I also had to grind a bit of the exposed shaft down that was hanging out past the nut so that the steering wheel nut was more flush with the shaft when snugged down… the turn signal cancel does not work tho.. on this adapter the two studs are a bit too inset so they go right past the pieces they are supposed to be hitting to cancel the signal… next I’m going to try and tighten the shifter slop a bit

How do I get ahold of mike Malone

Yeah I’m realizing parts are crazy spendy for these carbs… ugh 😑.. price I pay for trying to be a cool kid I guess

can anybody link me somewhere to find new rubber isolators? Or can they be ran straight to the manifold with a gasket? Also do not know where to start about the fact I have no throttle linkage.

I watched your entire video, Thanks it gave me a good base of understanding. I will probably first just try buying a pre made line at the parts store since I am only replacing that one piece but this did help me a lot. It is this adapter. I now read that I need to move the turn signal controls closer to the wheel and grind the shaft down a bit to be flush with the nut. I did not realize you could move the controls on the column. I will be trying this and see if it works better.

Replaced the steering wheel with a “fardi”fake nardi. Someone linked this adapter on Amazon and that it works on a 521 with the minimum gap. All 521 aftermarket wheels give you excess gap and unfortunately this wasn’t much different dang! The wheel looks pretty cool tho… then to make matters worse I decided to drive it to the gym for it’s first spring drive today. Forgot to tie down the battery, it fell into the engine bay and exploded the brake line and cought on fire! Luckily I was only going like 5mph when it happened because I lost all brakes! With no e brake. I popped the clutch to make it stop and stuck my foot out the door lol 😂… time to learn how to make brake lines I’ve never done it before.