demo243

They are probably “fine” but for all out performance you are better going with the other itbs bodies. I have also read far to much in the last couple days/weeks and it all gets jumbled up. As for the itb/efi cost- Just did a quick look on Godzilla and to make it as “bolt on + ready to run” as possible- ie their complete itb kit and mega squirt efi kit is $7k! Thats RB25 territory on ebay! With turbo and trans!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/285474216060?hash=item427796d87c:g:kRYAAOSwclVlAxGP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4IalkdHRxYkneEubOU0SaUhWiJghIsSQe5sFdw7qATbakoSokNSDc6UPYXLKj2RMMeIhM3zDO5erykOAAlDjm%2BzxgkNkxLdhPJD0iRV6LKlXBDlCUWBFgfkXsDt8ecI0wqWPsLHfSBsCLBJPa3wbDD%2FbvIXHLqs3H11rW8zNH1H30J4XTYj8TDFiUdPdUDokZ%2BhnIvIH2JmhEeYjupE%2FmdT4%2FgK7PJL1X0ptHDOBfS6zGGnp%2Fvl5fvctNir%2F4Me4n5akxG2N4fhEWSVx32cZg1TT4iOB%2B37UmgOwsyCW1hVe|tkp%3ABk9SR9DGvZHtYg I know first hand there is more involved with a swap … so the cost goes up… but damn that really gets you thinking 🤔

I was just reading about those - if I recall people were saying the angles were all bad and that as a unit they were pretty poor- ie might as well just stick with a Weber Would definitely be ITBs if I went with and efi conversion But yea … unless engine swapped I feel like a 240 should just have carbs

By all means derail it with efi/electronic ignition stuff it’s all useful information. I wouldn’t mind doing some sort of crank trigger ignition like on the 510. My thought is if I’m sticking with an L engine I want to keep it simple and carb’ed, as I am not going for all out power- obviously after more power but not going down the $10k+ build rabbit hole… From what I’ve seen for the price of most efi conversions I might as well just pick up and RB20 and kill that bird and the power bird with one stone. But to stick with carbs and an L engine keep it a bit more “classic”. I am rambling and musing here since I’m still not sure what direction I want to go.

There is another carb options too… I find one more Mikuni Phh 44 and steal those from the 510 and put them on the Z, and then experiment with HSRs on the 510 where they may be better suited due to bigger cylinder volume. Hate to mess with that right now though.

bummer I’ll have to check with some local shops, but depending on estimates maybe a trip to Harbor Freight is in order!

That is going to be the first thing I do. The one right after the pump has definitely seen better days. The one up in the engine bay is pretty fresh. Probably going to replace the fuel pump too with a Carter low pressure pump while I’m at it

Also Street Faction does not produce these anymore… but the more I look at em the more I dig em. @Crashtd420 got a tube bender? They actually look pretty simple so should be able to find a local fab shop to make something.

Then tried to take it for a cruise today… And she almost left me stranded… Did great on the on-ramp… and then lost it… went super lean and lost a lot of power. Got it off the highway at the next exit and pulled off on the side. It died on me and didn’t want to idle… got it fired back up and a little further down the road to a better spot to pull off. Tried a few more times but was still real down on power and didn’t want to idle. Popped the air cleaner off to check the carbs since I had the synch tool. Got it idling and checked both carbs were sync’ed and pulling to same vacuum. Hoped back in and drove it home- no issue… I think it’s a fuel issue- seems very similar to the time my needle valve was sticking on my old webers on the 510. I’m not into the SUs so I think it’s time for a change. The current value of the Yen makes OERs a quite affordable - and likely the “correct” answer being tried and true… but I’ve read mixed reviews… and need to figure out the “baseline” jetting… I do worry that maybe they will disappear one day to making parts hard to come by. Would love a set of Mikuni PHHs , but they are out of my budget- that’s where the possibility of Moto carbs comes in. I know I can run 2 Mikuni HSRs on the SU manifold, but where’s the fun in that! I’d love to run 6 bike carbs. They come with their own issues, and there isn’t a ton of info out there, but thinking about it- they are in current production, with a lot of support (Particularly the Mikuni HSRs with the Harley crowd) and readily available jets and parts. Here’s some inspiration- stolen from the intrawebs. The big question is what size? HSR42 could be a good option but with a 42mm bore and no chokes I fear they may be too big, they are also expensive. The next option would be Mikuni RS carbs. They come in 34, 36, 38, and 40mm bores. The RS carbs come in racks of 4 so I would need two, but can potentially be found second hand and are a little more reasonable. Of course by the time I do all that and build an engine… maybe I should just RB swap it

Got out to the Larz Anderson museum for the Japanese Car Day. Good turn out as usual. Car ran great down and back. One weird issue with the flasher unit… it would come on over 3k rpm…. Maybe a bad unit? The signals are all on relays, so no issue with them coming on un-intended. This Z was pretty Rad- definitely after a similar stance. Then my old truck showed up! New owner is up in NH not far away, so look forward to seeing more of it. He already cleaned up the frame and refreshed the rear axle. Excited to see what he does with it.

I believe it’s the stock electric fuel pump- 73s had an electric one I think. yea fuel pressure is probably not the culprit, but it feels just like it’s running out of fuel. Probably a float or needle as you suggested.

Took the Z out for a cruise this morning. Didn’t stop… so no pics. Was a nice fall drive. Did notice a slight fuel issue. Had it once before on the way back from Lime Rock too. Seems like I am running out of fuel after a long pull- ie 2nd, 3rd, hit 4th gear pull (highway merge) once I hit 4th it has a stutter… feels just like fuel cut. Throw it in 5th and let it cruise a sec and it’s fine. Drop to 4th and do a big pull and it’s fine. Leads me to believe the float bowl is running low. I guess that would be the needle, or fuel pressure….

Skimmed quickly so I may have missed it, but sounds like the box is losing power when you try and start it? Where are you pulling the power from? If you are drawing any power from the ignition switch you will need to splice two connects to ensure you keep power during cranking. All my cars have been rewired so this may not be relevant to your situation.

Another successful Labor Day in the books. Took the Z car out this year and it ran great! Coolant and oil temps stayed rock solid the whole trip. Cruised slightly lean on the wideband gauge, but once you put your foot down it fattens up and pulls great. Ran 80 down the highway all the way home. I’ve put about 600 miles on the car now. 4 240z were running this year and put up a good fight with the Porches in the big bore class. One was holding of one of the fast Donavon E-type jags. I’ll check back and see if I snagged any decent shots of them.

Interesting you should revive this one. Also interesting to here a 510 being still with in reach being you are in Australia. I went through this debate recently... Originally a 510 owner (still am - will never sell that car), and have been searching for another one for a few years. I bought a 620 in the middle there, so lost focus on the 510s for a couple years, but always had my eyes out there. I feel like 510s in the US are much harder to come by then Zs. Values are quite as high, but... the baseline is about the same - ie be ready to spend 6-10k for a project these days. The bigger problem being there just aren't many of them left. Versus the Z... there are a whole bunch for sale within a few hour drive from me. Yes many are fairly expensive. But the solid project is still out there if you are patient. Case in point - it only took me about 4 months to find a Z project that was reasonably solid and within my budget. As for the cars themselves - I think they are very different cars. Everything from the seating position to the handling. It is not a level playing field on my end though - the 510 is quite built and basically a race car; where as the Z is still on stock suspension but does have an L28 in it. I find the Z to be much more of a cruiser, and the 510 a corner killer . It will be interesting to compare once I have done suspension work on the Z - but I suspect the 510 will still be my choice for the twisties.

I have looked at Skillards and they are an option - although pricey... and I feel like their edges are kinda sharp? I thought about fiberglass ones too, but after getting a fiberglass spoiler from MSA and how terrible the gel goat was... I definitely don't want to deal with that. Street Faction made the bash bars. I don't know if they still do... need to message them. https://streetfaction.net/collections/bash-bars/products/rear-bash-bars-datsun-infiniti-nissan?variant=39701430534232 My only fear is that a bash bar is too strong and directs all the impact into the chassis and then destroys the chassis instead of a "replaceable" bumper... I have no plans on using them, just a thought.

Took the car out for a good shake down run this weekend. 175 miles round trip to Thompson Motor Speedway to meet up with the CT Z Club. Z did great down and back. Cruises at 75-80 with no problem and plenty left to give. Still a bit of a intermittent shake in the wheel, but its definitely steering component related is my guess. As mentioned before, if you stick to one side or the other of the lane it goes away, so in my mind you are slightly loading the steering then which keeps it calm. Got a few "parade laps" in as well. Definitely not a track day... but we still go up to 80 on the front straight. The car is definitely not as confident as the 510... and I think the 510 is faster... but that makes sense since there is a lot more done to that car both engine and suspension wise. I definitely need to tear the brake master apart, as the residual valve is definitely still in there, even with the rear disc conversion. I could feel them dragging pushing the car around, but you can feel the rear wheels are warm after driving it, so the brakes are definitely dragging. Narrowing plans for the future... got most of a set of donor struts, and located the last, so BC Coils. Then I think Ill do front and rear control arms, tc rods, and tie rods. Will probably replace the rack with either T3 or APEX depending on which suspension components I decide to go with. Thinking I may go with an MSA roll bar, mostly for looks ... I don't think Im going to run harnesses in the Z but TBD. Also got my eye on some drift style "bash bars" instead of bumpers - they are shaped pretty close to the stock bumper lines... but TBD

What hubs are those?

Got the front end aligned today. Helped a bit and drives a bit “looser” but it was toes in too far. Still had a bit of a shake, but that could be anywhere else in the 50 year old steering setup. I’ll do tie rods and the rest later at some point.

Gotta wonder what they were expecting to get for that rusty 4 door? Datsun market appears to be soft right now…

oooph that’s way above my head!!! is probably try and do something similar to the 510 and throw some sidedrafts on it… which makes it extremely cost inhibiting… one can dream…. turbo RBs are pretty rad though - this guy has one that is an inspiration too https://instagram.com/jesse_s30?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Been fun to follow on IG ! looking forward to the rest of it!

I’ve seriously thought about it!

A bit of reading and maybe it is my toe in that is causing the shake. Being so far in could be causing the wheels to fight each other - amplified by the road grooves. Would also make sense why it goes away if you hug one side or the other. I am hoping for a big drive next weekend to join the local Z club so maybe Ill try and adjust the toe a touch tomorrow.

I recall setting it around 1/8th last time I did it so the difference could just be in where it was measured

Yea… driveway alignment consists of a couple piece of angle aluminum on top of two 2 2x4s all shoved up against the tire. I marked center and equal distance on either side, slightly wider then the tires, and two tape measures it was enough to get it close