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My B&M is pretty notchy... and doesn't like 5th much. 1-4 are smooth ish... but 5th will grind unless I go slow. Doesnt always like to go into reverse either. Also for reference I am running Redline MT-90 in the trans and Royal purple in the rear diff (4.11 LSD) I'm running halfshafts and some old rubber rear diff bushings.... and it sounds like mine is just as loud as yours so Im not sure half shafts will help at all. I was running the energy suspension poly trans mount, but threw in a GM rubber mount with hardly a difference. Still running poly McKinney motor mounts though. I think @Duke is on to it with the harmonics issue... probably not helped by the partially counterbalanced crankshaft. I wonder if an upgraded damper would do anything? ATI ?? drop some cash? But yea to Dukes point... I think there are some harmonics going on that are then amplified by the lightweight flywheel, aftermarket clutch, big aluminum drive shaft and tin can of a car...

Rockcrusher! that is the best way I've heard to describe the noise... drives me crazy. Interested to see how the changes affect it. Are you running a stock shifter or short shift? I was reading on some of the 240sx forums that the B&M shifter I have can cause some more noise too... don't have a stock shifter to try though...

I'm not the only one!!!! My supposedly rebuilt trans in my KA swap is really loud on decel in 4th and 5th... and even 3rd above 3k. Running a Fidenza light weight flywheel, spec stage 1? clutch (id have to go back and check what I bought hahaha) and a 3" aluminum drive shaft. I dont think its quite as loud outside of the car... but inside the car with no interior and poly mounts its loud as shit! Been keeping my eye out for another trans to swap in and see if it helps... but sounds like it may not make a difference. Although I still need to go in and check the pinion angles to see if that helps at all.

If your looking to run a distributorless ignition definitely look into megajolt, it uses a Ford Edis system which is fairly easy to source. It's pretty easy to set up. Both Duke and I are running it on our carb'ed DEs.

Cast "production" intake - EWL - hard to find. I got lucky and found it second hand... but I stumbled upon the guy who makes them/ imports them on the Ratsun facebook a little while back. I think his name was Eddie La Puebla i think?? Ed Pink made the ones for Nissan Motorsports NA - that one is a welded manifold. I've got one of those stashed away as well, but I liked the look and quality of the cast one better.

Running Megajolt - got a set of Mikuni 44's bolted to the side of the KA, so Megajolt takes care of the ignition. 20180413_172943 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Here's some inspiration for you --- this is the pan I had made for my KA - Ray at Garage Autohero welded it up for me --- not sure how the CA bottom end compares to the KA. The other thread to check out is Dukes thread - he did a rear sump pan on his KA and is now running a steering rack as well. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr IMG_0663 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Also added benefit to a rear sump pan is protection from impact as the crossmember is still in front of the pan. I went custom rear sump pan for my KA swap. When I did the math on getting the crossmember cut and rewelded or buying someones already flipped crossmember and then having to get a new sway bar it pretty much evened out.

Only the 2nd page this time... not too bad - Finally got some time to work on the dime. Went down to CT for a few days to take care of some issues. Pulled the engine the reseal the oil pan--- hoping it holds this time... 20180503_152105 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Tried to use the "stock" 2?0z trans mount.. but it dropped the trans too far and in turn angled the engine too far back so it hit the firewall... oh well back to the poly mount... Got a new TPS sensor and adapter for throttle shaft--- and it works! Which allowed me to finally update to a real ignition map. Ill have to screenshot a photo of it later, but its basically a tweaked version of Dukes map adjusted for a TPS sensor instead of MAP. Could probably use some fine tuning, but it works for now and the car runs much better then the flat 15 degree map I was running before. 20180505_171845 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr For anyone interested, and hopefully this helps someone else since I had a hell of a time trying to figure it out... Kinsler Fuel Injection sells these TPS sensors, and this adapter for a 3/8" throttle shaft (such as the one available from pierce manifolds) I used the clockwise rotation sensor for my application. Screen Shot 2018-05-05 at 10.55.52 PM by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Some engine shots... it just looks too good!!! 20180413_172927 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr 20180413_172945 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Also worked out a few other electrical kinks - added a second fuse panel. Got the reverse lights working. Got the AFR wideband gauge working. And finally got my speedo working!!! Ended up being a bent pin in the vss sensor, carefully bent it back and it works. All my gauges work now!!!! So since everything was working I took it out for a spin --- 20180505_200811 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr 20180505_200833 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

For anyone looking... its completely missing the passenger side floor and the driver doesnt look to far behind from the photos.

Valvoline vr1 racing oil is available in a 10w30 and has a higher level of zddp. It's harder to get in Cali at a store but summit and Amazon have it.

AFCO 80104n - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afc-80104n You can see the hose numbers I used as well (Both needed to be trimmed down)- both the hoses I used do require a reducer on the engine side - each one needed to be reduced by 1/4" if I remember correctly - I also ended up going with an inline thermostat as well since I plugged the heater core outlet and had temp issues. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

The CTZCC crew used to be pretty active -mostly z's , but they were always open to other nissans and datsuns

Everett just outside of Boston - Was just out your way- there is a 4 door shell for sale... but its pretty stripped and beat up. Went to check it out. Considered grabbing it and parting it, keeping the x-members and rear end.. but cant justify it right now -- https://worcester.craigslist.org/pts/d/1971-datsun-nissan-510-sedan/6435080805.html Yea not too far away- Fairfield. Although I typically end up running down 84 and then 8.

Current to do list-- -Figure out battery draw/drain issue -Figure out throttle positions sensor issue and upload proper tuning Map -Exhaust work - header back (was hoping to get my spare rear crossmember exhaust opened and adjustable... but I dont think thats gonna happen... Ill just go full 2.5" or full 3" and have then do a smaller pipe through the x-member and replace it down the road) -Get a trans tunnel cover fabbed and welded -Fill or plug the random holes in the floor and firewall -Figure out whats needed to pass MA saftey inspection -New tires- these Falkens are getting old and beat... time for something new and sticky Eventually- -Redo motor mounts -Better trans mount -Adjustable LCAs, TC rods, ties rods --- possibly T3 GTX2s -Redo steering - all bushings etc --- possibly rebuilt box -Race seats --- Corbeau likely -New wheels --- 13x7 race wheels --- possibly 15x7ish Rota Grids for daily use -Rear Coilovers ... Im sure there is more Also getting the itch to get a 2nd 510... should have done this while I was in Cali... but year couldnt afford it. This is probably 2 years out pending on buying a house (2+ car garage required)

Not much too update... Car made it back east! Was a bit nerve racking... Unfortunately I couldn't use the same trucking company I did to ship it out west since my wife's company was paying for it (yea full relo package... I am working in the wrong industry... but at least I married someone who is!) so they farmed it out... talking to the company the promised it would only go on one truck... well sure enough I guy shows up with a small 3-4 car trailer and obviously that wasnt going across the country... short for time I had to just load it and deal with it. Then it got loaded on a bigger truck to make the full trip. I was a bit nervous due to it not holding a battery charge and needing a jump and also that it needs to crank a bit after sitting since the oil pressure switch doesnt let fuel flow till there is oil pressure. Made it fine.. with only one decent dent in the lower portion of the megan header... I figured this will get replaced when I get the exhaust done... so no big deal. Getting picked up - Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Dropped off- Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr For some reason they never want to drive it off... so both times I have driven it off Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Back east - Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr unfortunately for now the car is stashed in CT in my mom's garage, and will be for the next 16+ months... Ill still be down to drive it and work on it, and hopefully get it back out autocrossing in Bridgeport Ct this summer. The hard part is all my tools are up in Boston. The biggest issue now is getting it compliant with MA laws... I though Cali was bad... MA is worse... MUCH WORSE.... To reg it in Cali all I had to do was drive it to the DMV and get it VIN verified... the guy even commented on how good the engine looked and how much work I must have put into it... and it passed fine Massachusetts is a different story... being a '71 there is no emissions... but it does have to pass a saftey inspection every year and MA just added cameras to all their inspections bays so nothing can pass through.... Also side note---- All photos between page 2 and 25? have been removed... I did this before I realized there was a hack for the photobucket issue... either way I cant support a company the tries to screw over so many people... so I deleted all my photos off of photobucket and deleted my account. I have uploaded a bunch of them to Flickr and will move forward with them depending on how motivated I get I may try and reinstate some of the photos ... or just redo a few of my first posts with a overall ... will see...

For the lizards skins-- is that just their top coat? or did you do a sound/heat insulation as well? Wouldnt mind coating the inside and underside of my 510 in the near future and that looks like an interesting product.

Hanging on to it for now....

As it sits right now... We unfortunately are on hold again... Life is taking me and the 510 back east again - Boston here we come! So there will be some more updates, but mostly likely mostly reposting preferred old photos... There are a few issues that still need to be dealt with. --- Something is draining the battery... as its not holding a charge The TPS sensor will calibrate fine, but once the engine is started, it doest read.... Exhaust desperately needs to be done Will need new tires soon--- these are getting worn and two of them sat in oil for a bit as well needs some sort of trans tunnel repair or cover to seal that back up Going to need to do some serious 3m adhesive tape/foam to deal with rattles... installed the T3 rear firewall and deck lid... but with the poly engine mounts and trans mounts the car vibrates... Something might not be right with the trans... cant tell if its just the hacked exhuast rubbing the trans crossmember bolts or if its the trans itself... but its loud in 4th and 3rd especially on decel. It also unfortunately seems I failed at RTV and the oil pan seal is leaking a bit too.... Lots of work to still be done.... Ill do my best to keep it all updated.

Also to be noted.... I could not get the stock KA thermostat to work. Very inconsistent temperature readings.... with a 160 thermostat in the stock location on the lower hose, I quickly saw 180+ at the sensor in the intake manifold ( coolant outlet for the engine) without the thermostat opening.... This is what I believe to be the issue of the over heating, plug popping, oil puking issue. Even when I was able to get the thermostat to open, it would quickly close and then not reopen... tried two different thermosats with the same issue At that point i went to an inline thermostat in the upper hose and have had zero issues since.

Get home the next afternoon - fire it and let it idle (while varying the throttle and rpms) to warm it up and do a quick initail tune on the mikunis. Thanks to DUKE the mikunis are pretty close to dialed right off the bat Let it warm up and all seems fine. Take it for a quick spin around the block- 1/2 mile maybe? --- All is good around the first turn, second turn, third turn, and fourth. Go to pull in my drive way and get stuck 3 wheeled because of the angle, back up and glance down at the temp gauge and it had pegged... shit.... shut it down open the hood and can see the coolant pissing out of the back of the head.... well shit Let it cool and go out 2 hours later since I need to fire it again to get it in the garage... fire it , back it up so I can swing out to get into the drive, wait for traffic, get a break and pull in. Get out of the car to see a massive line of oil.... Do my best to mop up the oil and prep for the worst. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Next night I go out to figure out where the oil came from.... Cant find anything... Finally pull the oil filter... the gasket gave on the filter Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr No more nissan filters for me... the gasket is super flimsy on these and I am surprised this doesnt happen more often.\ I have since swapped to Bosche filters as they have a nice big thick rubber gasket. Next step was to pull the head as I though the headgasket had popped. --- side note here, it did over heat, but I dont think it actually got that hot since the heat tabs on the head desinged to melt in an overheating situation to allow the machine shop to void the warranty did not melt Pulled the head, checked for flatness... thankfully still flat new head gasket installed, all torqued back up... go to fire... Still leaking..... now I am able to see that it is actually leaking out of the core plug at the back of the head.... Decide its easier to pull the whole engine instead of the head so get to work. Pulled the engine Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Made a core plug remover with some spare alum stock and a self taping bolt Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Pull the plug, clean the hole, replace it, and drop the engine back in Fire it up...leaking worse then before... I can now see a steady stream of coolant coming out Pull the engine, pull the plug, clean it, replace it and put it all back together --- used aircraft gasket maker both times to seal the plug... Before I even fire it, I can see it leaking.... At this point I decide its time to pull the head an take it to a machine shop, plan was to have them bore it out and put a new larger plug in. Called 3 machine shops.... none of them could do that... 4th one finally says yes they can, bring it on by. After talking with them in person they can see why the plug wouldnt hold... there were some small scuffs and a gouge but they were convinced that the plug should hold despite that... they offer to make an aluminum plug for a good chunk of change instead of boring the hole out or suggest that I just take it home use some sleeve retainer on the new plug (3rd one) and then epoxy the shit out of it..... not wanting to dump money into this rock auto head I follow their suggestion. Took it home, cleaned it really well, applied sleeve retainer to the hole and the plug, installed it, let the sleeve retainer set up, and then epoxied the plug in... long store short this plug is not coming out easily Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Put it all back together Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Let the epoxy cure Fire it! No LeakS!!!!!! Its is now running and driving.

At this point we were good to fire. Cranked for oil pressure... nothing... pulled the filter back filled the pump from the filter adapter and pre filled the filter. Cranked again... OIL PRESSURE! Now we are good to fire... Go to start... no spark... first though was the edis coil and the plug wires thinking they werent contacting each other... swaped to a different coil... still no spark... a little more digging to relize that when the ignition was on the megajolt unit had power, but when I turned the igntion to start the megajolt unit would lose power --- hence no spark since I am running a hard limiter on the megajolt board, power to the coil is provided from megajolt. A few calls with Rag10 and we had that rewired and sorted out to provide constant power when cranking. Next issue... wont fire... keeps trying and backfire out of the carbs but wont run.... seems like timing is off... hand crank to TDC and check all the markings and the trigger wheel and sensor... everything is lined up perfect.... Did some reading on the Autosport forums (megajolt forum) and someone mentioned they crossed the coil wires and had to swap the plug wires.. Swap the plug wires... FIRES FIRST TRY! Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Plugged in a straight 15 degree map and damn it is dead on with the timing light... 15 degrees does not budge. Shut it down to drive it the next day.

side note--- back to electrical... Oddessy PC680 using T3 bracket mounted to a piece of alum stock behind the passenger seat Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Hard to see in this photo... but ran power to a 200amp circuit breaker mounted under the pass seat then goes to the started an a 175amp mega fuse in the engine bay Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Couple of other issues... The OBX 4-2-1 header wasnt even close to fitting... even with a big F'n hammer.... Ordered up a Megan 4-1 shorty and it fits great. If you are handy with a welder you could clock the flange on the lower pipe a few degrees and it would fit fine too... for me a temporary solution of a 2" exahust extension flange allowed me to clock the lower portion as needed... the rest of the exhaust is pretty hacked together but it works... definitely needs a visit to a good exhaust shop. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Another issue I encountered was the trans bushing/isolator. Most said the 240/260/280 worked fine.. but with the T3 crossmember it sat realllly low.... ended up picking up this energy suspension one, Ill have to dig up the part number. fixes it well enough... although I did need to open up the trans mount holes to allow it to slot forward and backwards... Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Long story short... not impressed with the Mckinny Mounts or the T3 trans xmember... Still amazed someone hasnt "dialed" in this swap and offered mounts... but I guess there are alot of different routes people go. Once the engine and trans were in I had to sort out the drive shaft. --- the shaft that came with my car had seen better days, and rather then shorten it again and rebuild it, I called the guys up at the driveshaftshop.com and had them custom make a 3" aluminum driveshaft. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Fit in perfectly - great guys over there Radiator also needed to be taken care of. Really didnt like the CX racing one and had heard of people using the AFCO 80104N but without many photos... liked the dim's and price an pulled the trigger Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr This shows a comparisson to the Koyo 510 rad -- AFCO on left and Koyo on right Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Found some generic floor isolators on Grainger for the lower mounts and bent up some aluminum stock for the upper mounts Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Then went to oreilly and politely asked the guys to let me browse their rad hose selection to see if I could find some that fit --- Part numbers still on hoses- they were cut down FYI so the ones off the shelf are longer with an extra bend or two Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Due to the rad inlet and outlet being bigger then the KA inlet and outlet I did need to use some hose shims that were aquired off of summit racing You will notice in this shot I had to go to an inline thermostat in the upper hose... more on that latter IMG_2198 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Dropping it in did not come easy.... some issues I was expecting... but not as many as I encountered... Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr The biggest issues were with the motor mounts and trans bracket.... currently running the T3 trans bracket and McKinney motor mounts... not really happy with either.... Ray fabbed the pan up with a stock 510 xmember and stock 510 soft mounts... but when I went to mount it up something was different with the xmember.... so it didnt fit right. I ended up using the McKinney mounts to get the extra height to clear the pan from the xmember and the steering linkage.... not stoked... but they will work... Was having a hell of a time getting 510 soft mounts to work Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Also I felt the engine was really far forward... so with the help of Rag10 I got some custom hard mounts fabbed to set the motor back further into the bay Will need to get some shots of these... cant find em on my phone/flickr