demo243

Not running turbo - NA all the way! with Mikunis! Although not completely rulling out an eventual blow through set up........ doubtful though As Noted above wiseco call for .0158 first ring and .0194 2nd ring for NA Street/Strip Right now I am at .019 first and .017 second - so I can easily bump out the second ring to .019-.021 FSM states .017 1st and .019 second so I think thats where I'll end up. General consensus is though I could easily run .019 first and .021 second - only potential issue might be a bit extra blow by....

doctor510 - Congrats on 510 post btw

First engine build so I guess mistakes are bound to happen... Just happy I caught it before I fully built it up. Already have a parts/cost log... scary... Working on a measurement log as well. Just got caught up in the reference build thread and mixed the numbers up. Yea second ring. Wiseco says minimum for oil control rings is .010 which all just a bit bigger then that direct from wiseco so no need to file those.

With everything I've got into this motor I'm just gonna do it right and order up 2 new ring sets. Thought I was doing good double checking everything and still screwed up jahaha

Building a NA - will be running my mikuni 44s on it and eventually a stage 2 cam. Redline will likely be around 7k: The chart with the rings shows a .005 top and .0055 bottom ring multiplier - which equates to .017 top and .019 bottom for street/stock - nitrous or drag get a bigger gap

So building my ka right now and I might have messed up Over bored to 89.5 running wiseco pistons Wisco says to run .017 top and .019 bottom. I was reading another build thread as a reference and mixed em up So I've got .019 top and .017 bottom (only on two pistons - realized before I gapped the other rings so I stopped) Wiseco says to gap the second ring larger to reduce top ring flutter or lifting .... Proper thing to do would be to order new rings. .... But how much of a difference will .002 make if I were to size up the 2nd to .021 and run .019 top and .020 or .021 2nd- which o believe are still with in factory spec

I've got one- shoot me a pm. I snap some photos later.

Rock auto of all places....

I'll have to check that set up out. I'm pretty committed to this one but always curious

Sometimes you just gotta be different or run what you got. Funny thing is I brought my dcom to an alpha specific repair shop and they didn't know anything about em

Didn't have a problem with em, but I never dealt with re jetting them , I've heard it can be harder to get jets... But also heard they are the same. I was told the diaphragm pump was actually better I got rebuild kits for them from Pierce manifolds I actually still have them and need to sell em. One has a broken mounting ear... But the other is good. Just a needs a rebuild, but I've got two fresh rebuild kits

I had a pair of dcom s on my l20b mounted on a mikuni manifold.

Yea pretty stoked on how it came out- not perfect... But only cost me about 20 bucks to make the dash it's self so no complaints Can't wait to get em all hooked up and see em glow

Gauges came --- STOKED!!!!!!!!

Not too much to update on... spent most of the afternoon with a spray can... Dash painted Black and Bronze is just such a good look Also started looking into where to mount the coil pack - Think ive settle on this. Eventually I'd like to get shorter wires... but for now this will have too work. Also Gauges are order - Here is what they will look like Speedo - Tach- AFR wideband - Oil Pressure - Oil Temp - Fuel - Water Temp

Run it till it blows up then swap 2.2!

Side note I need to get under the car to check angles first... But this could potentially be an option to raise the trans up - looks to be about 2" total height - just need to check the trans mount width http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/71604

You should definitely keep it wood grain! Looks awesome

I havent... been so busy with other stuff. Also was hoping to get the engine dropped in before I really started wiring so that everything was in the spot it will eventually be in

Sounds like square tube spacer sounds like the best idea. Hopefully I can find some similar square top bolts to drop through similar to the trans

Bummer.... I bought mine months ago It's weird with t3... I like there coil over kit and camber plates and the quality is good.... But their heatshield was all off and now this is off.... Bummer

Couple more updates - Got most of the holes cut in the dash, just need to order the gauges and add the dimmer Got an update from Ray at Garage Autohero - Pan is moving along Went ahead cut the trans tunnel and test fit my spare block and trans - tossed one of my bad heads on top for reference Trans seems to be sitting to low with a T3 Crossmember and 260z trans isolator.... giving the engine a bit of a tilt back. - Mocked up with 510 mounts with the upper soft mount holes in the lower crossmember holes... any thoughts? or remedies other then just adding a spacer between the trans isolator and crossmember?

Sorry Busta.... Blowing up your car.....

Little more progress Got the fuse box and mega jolt mounted Also got the block and everything back from the machine shop