jrbd10 Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) My car starts to die at 3,000 rpms. I mean as in when i exceed 3,000 it starts to almost backfire and start popping and eventually cut off. It doesn't matter the gear, it does it in every gear. It makes almost a gun shot sound. I just recently added some dual side drafts and a video of how it was before the cracking is coming up. Some help would be great. Edited March 4, 2009 by datzenmike Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) Exhaust some pics Edited March 2, 2009 by jrbd10 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 Vid of before doesn't really help. Did this problem start soon after changing the carb? Maybe you should start there, or a vid of it not running right. What is the history on these side drafts? What are they off of? Often a sudden lean condition can cause a backfire through the carb. possibly one (or both) are jetted wrong for your motor. Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 well the jetted thing i doubt, the guy who jetted it was spot on what he was doing but maybe they need to adjust it. Im telling you it just backfires. I had the carb for maybe about 1 day. dont know the history...of of a L18 like mine. Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 really so just timming...i mean it just stalls at 3,000 rpms and up. i have noticed it does idle a bit low. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 YOu said a Guy worked on this. Installed carbs and cam? You pay for this? Then take it back!!!!!!!!!! maybe its off link on th chain.? maybe not Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 well we only got the carbs done...but yes we did pay. i will later this morning. Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 well i got it fixed. after changing the jets numerous times, we got it right. drove it then it did it agian. then i thought electrical. so we crack open the distrbutor, sure enough its burned, we change it and temporaly fixed it, later ill go back for a new one but for now it runs like a champ. it hauls ass. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 Get yourself a matchbox dizzy...no more burnt points after that ;) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) Points burned up? if burns again ,then a wrong coil is installed or the ballast resisitor was removed. glad its running. I bet it made a big inmprovemnt!!!!!!!!!! Edited March 2, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 Check that you have a ballast resistor on that coil. Without it the points will fry within 50 to 200 miles. If you have one of those 'super coils' throw away and get a matchbox and coil.... all you will ever need. Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 honestly not sure what a ballast resistor is but, i know the car does have one of those super coils. we are going to change it later and get a matchbox and coil like said earlier. more than likely we well do the matchbox change at the same time we change the cam and add a 5 speed. later on im going to see if i can get a dyno done today. if not today then tomorrow. btw it hauls ass now...still slow but it has a good punch Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) This is the stock ballast and a added ballast cause I added the Super coil. The Super Coil is lower resisitance than stock so that why the added resistor in series. A Super Coil in the box comes with a added ballast resistor of .85 ohms. the drawing I have is of a 510 but should be similar. Put the stock coil back in and I think the ballast resisitor is probaply still there since you dont know what one looks like or is. Should run fine w/o point swaps every 50 miles. Edited March 2, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 gottcha great thanks hainz. i do have the ballast resisitor. oh and if anyone cares...i went from 58 horsepower and 77 torque to now 75 horsepower and 92 torque Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 just by changing the carbs? wonder what the cam will do do you have any head work done? by the numbers it doesnt seem like it Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Bonvo Im sure there was a cam change to that also. jrbd10, remeber in the vid I sent you. listen to the details. Make sure you dont just change stuff to change it. Esp the ignition system. Buying a Supercoil and just putting it in is not the way to do things. It has to be a Matched set resisitance wise. Esp if your still running points. To much current will kill off the points and the capicitor cant handle it cuaseing sparks to arch in the dizzy cap. The simplest and EZest EI ignition to put in is the Matchbox with a MSDcoil. set motor to TDC install where it locks down that will be #1 go 1 3 4 2 Counterclock wise fire order and timme it to 7-12BTDC and should go fine. Just hook it straight up as pictured and it should work. Make sure to to have the mount with the matchbox dizzy as that is a timmed set also. this is 2 ways to draw the same thing. The 12volt wire is a blk/wht wire in a 510 and should be the same on later cars Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2009 thanks haniz great stuff no doubt...but Im sure there was a cam change to that also. Your wrong on that one...stock cam. any head work done honestly no i havent...but with the previous owner im not sure but i doubt it. he was an old school mechanic and i know him as a friend, he wouldnt do any head work so i doubt it. but as soon as i have a few more upgrades, and a few other things, ill go back to dyno and find out the next number. I'll be sooo damm happy if i can reach 90 horsepower. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 4, 2009 Report Share Posted March 4, 2009 thats a good power increase!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 preety sweet right! well ima add a cam, and 5 speed, even though i know a 5 speed would lower horsepower a bit, i would gain more speed! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 5spd won't change anything. 4th gear is the same in both. It's just an over drive for the highway to lower RPMs. Dyno usually runs all cars in 4th. Quote Link to comment
jrbd10 Posted March 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 now dont i feel stupid Quote Link to comment
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