Ranman72 Posted July 7 Report Share Posted July 7 L28 turbo pump is what i was told Rebello uses and i have heard the Ka pump is comparable and works Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 7 Report Share Posted July 7 8 hours ago, Ranman72 said: L28 turbo pump is what i was told Rebello uses and i have heard the Ka pump is comparable and works Yes, that's true. Apparently the KA pump is the identical same. On 7/3/2024 at 5:02 PM, Socalman said: True, I need to check total as well. It’s just really loud with open headers at the moment. lol….. Total timing is so very important. If you want the timing to be 100%, get your distributor recurved. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 7 Report Share Posted July 7 (edited) Rebello can recurve it, or Jeff Schlemmer. Edited July 7 by Stoffregen Motorsports 1 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 7 Author Report Share Posted July 7 4 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Rebello can recurve it, or Jeff Schlemmer. It’s possible the distributor that came with it might have been recurved, I won’t know until I check total. I am guessing I’m looking for something like 32 total?? 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 8 Report Share Posted July 8 Yes, 32 total timing is around ideal. Sometimes more, sometimes less. 1 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 8 Author Report Share Posted July 8 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Yes, 32 total timing is around ideal. Sometimes more, sometimes less. Thanks! 2 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 11 Author Report Share Posted July 11 On 7/8/2024 at 9:37 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Yes, 32 total timing is around ideal. Sometimes more, sometimes less. Well it seems this particular distributor only has 10* advance in it. Meaning if I set it at 15* initial it has 25 total at 2500-3000 rpm. It appears to have been a points that someone put a petronix in. Once I get it on the road and see how she runs, if I don’t like it, I’ll throw the matchbox in it and see where it is at total with same initial… Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 11 Report Share Posted July 11 So someone did recurve that distributor already. Either that or someone installed really stiff springs. Or it's just jammed up inside. You should check #2 and #3 before you get rid of it. Also, you can give it more mechanical advance by filing the slots in the distributor cam. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 11 Report Share Posted July 11 Breaker plate is probably jammed up. If you have a matchbox dizzy, why aren’t you already using that instead? Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 11 Author Report Share Posted July 11 55 minutes ago, mainer311 said: Breaker plate is probably jammed up. If you have a matchbox dizzy, why aren’t you already using that instead? I am just going through what it came with at the moment. 56 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: So someone did recurve that distributor already. Either that or someone installed really stiff springs. Or it's just jammed up inside. You should check #2 and #3 before you get rid of it. Also, you can give it more mechanical advance by filing the slots in the distributor cam. Checking 2 and 3 does or tells me what exactly? I’ll see if it’s jammed up.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 11 Report Share Posted July 11 Don't forget that 20 degrees on the crankshaft is only 10 degrees on the distributor. What ever the distributor advances is, it's twice that on the crankshaft. Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 11 Author Report Share Posted July 11 7 hours ago, datzenmike said: Don't forget that 20 degrees on the crankshaft is only 10 degrees on the distributor. What ever the distributor advances is, it's twice that on the crankshaft. I am not sure what that means? I set timing by setting the timing light to whatever degrees I want ( like 14 or 15) then line up crank and timing plate to 0 at idle for initial. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 11 Report Share Posted July 11 Oh nothing much, just that the distributor turn half the RPMs of the crankshaft. Coincidence. If you're talking crankshaft degrees then all good, well 100 is not good, should be more like 20 centrifugal plus the initial of 12. 120 is strictly for emissions but really the L series or any engine would like a lot more idle advance. Next time you have the timing at 12 twist the distributor slowly more advanced , like 14-16, and the idle will improve and smooth out. You can't run it there because the total 14 + 20 will exceed the 32 when revved up and will likely ping. Re-curving the distributor usually involves the centrifugal advance adjusted lower to say 180 and that, added to you more advanced 140 , adds up to the preferred 320 and no pinging. Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 11 Author Report Share Posted July 11 30 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Oh nothing much, just that the distributor turn half the RPMs of the crankshaft. Coincidence. If you're talking crankshaft degrees then all good, well 100 is not good, should be more like 20 centrifugal plus the initial of 12. 120 is strictly for emissions but really the L series or any engine would like a lot more idle advance. Next time you have the timing at 12 twist the distributor slowly more advanced , like 14-16, and the idle will improve and smooth out. You can't run it there because the total 14 + 20 will exceed the 32 when revved up and will likely ping. Re-curving the distributor usually involves the centrifugal advance adjusted lower to say 180 and that, added to you more advanced 140 , adds up to the preferred 320 and no pinging. Ok got it. Previous post was about how this distributor only advances 10* centrifugal. So I need to check for a jam before I change it out… 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 11 Report Share Posted July 11 17 hours ago, Socalman said: I am just going through what it came with at the moment. Checking 2 and 3 does or tells me what exactly? I’ll see if it’s jammed up.. Sometimes stiff springs are installed in an attempt to limit the mechanical advance. On certain applications, this works fine, but on a Datsun distributor, it makes the timing curve too sluggish. If stiff springs were installed, I'd either remove both of them and install stock springs, or I'd remove one of them and leave it off. Note - when I'm recurving a Datsun distributor, I remove one spring and leave one original spring, then I bend the ears where the spring connects to make sure there is no freeplay on the spring. Jammed up, meaning, gunky or rusty where the distributor cam slides over the distributor shaft. There are shims in there too. Maybe someone added a shim or put one in the wrong place, making it stiff. Anything is possible on a 50 year old distributor. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 11 Report Share Posted July 11 Stiffening or softening the springs will affect how fast the advance comes in wouldn't limiting how far these pins move in the slots stop the advance cold, regardless. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 11 Report Share Posted July 11 Yes, it could limit the total travel. Nobody makes stiff springs for a Datsun distributor, which means they are using them from a Chevy or Ford, and in my experience, if they are too stiff, they can absolutely limit the travel. 1 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 12 Author Report Share Posted July 12 So I had a recurve kit, I installed it. It was for a Datsun 1600 car. It fit, I adjusted the carbs a little bit and oh my God! This thing is a beast! The first run just like it sat was popping at like 4-5k, after the kit and adjustments this thing is scary fast! I didn’t think I would be able to love this truck anymore, was I wrong! 2 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 12 Author Report Share Posted July 12 Might need to install an aluminum radiator though. It’s at about 200-210…can’t wait to finish the exhaust and really drive it! Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 12 Author Report Share Posted July 12 Should I follow these directions? Or should I stop while I’m ahead? After all, this isn’t a 1600 anymore.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 12 Report Share Posted July 12 Will a Roadster R16 distributor fit an L16??? Not bloody likely. Only similarity is the 1600s have the same displacement and made by Datsun at the time.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 12 Author Report Share Posted July 12 5 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Will a Roadster R16 distributor fit an L16??? Not bloody likely. Only similarity is the 1600s have the same displacement and made by Datsun at the time.. I’m no sure about the whole distributor but I can tell you that the degree cam fit and worked for me…on the single points distributor I got with this engine that was fit with a petronix 1 Quote Link to comment
Socalman Posted July 12 Author Report Share Posted July 12 I had it on my shelf for 3 years because it didn’t fit the dual points distributor that came with the stock engine when I purchased the truck Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 12 Report Share Posted July 12 Ahh, then the stock one could also be modified with some JB weld or TIG it. A lot of back and forth to dial it in Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 12 Report Share Posted July 12 (edited) 1 hour ago, Socalman said: Datsun 1600 car. Datsun 1600 is what they call a 510 in Austraila Datsun 1600 Roadster could be the same but Im sure they use the same single points/ .condensor set up I bet inside. Single point type and fit the same Pertronix kit would work. Just the drive part is different I stop while you ahead. Maybe I should get this kit for my 510 as I run dual Mikunis. where this come from ? link OK I see it now. Really that much of a difference?????????????? Edited July 12 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
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