Datsun 521 4X4 Project

[Metalguy]

Sounds like I should just leave it be then, Thanks everyone! I'll do what I can to clean things up, and leave the coolant be. I have the engine and trans out of the truck for a 5 speed swap. I read in another thread that the stock rear transmission mount needs to be modified? Any idea to what dimensions? I'd like the install to go smoothly. Any other advice for things I should do while the engine and trans are out? I plan on a new main seal, rear trans seal, new oil pan gasket, and just general cleanup over all. 

[Metalguy]

A few pics. 

[Metalguy]

All that oil in the bell housing on the stock 4 speed makes me think maybe the main seal on the engine was leaking. But the clutch wasn't wet at all... So maybe it was the front trans seal? 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The rear main seal is in front of the flywheel, so having a soaked bellhousing and dry clutch is totally possible. The flywheel flings the leaking oil out.

[Metalguy]

Hmmmm... I'm changing the seal and clutch anyway, but it seemed odd. I found the thread for modifying the rear trans mount, and will be doing that soon. I'm also cleaning up the engine compartment, and the engine while waiting for some parts. I'll get a few pics going.

[Metalguy]

Engine compartment. My battery tray is in shambles. Gonna weld in some reinforcement, and purity things up! 

[Metalguy]

Getting there. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Maybe it's just the angle of the camera, but I wonder if there is enough clearance between the drag link and tie rod. On full suspension bump, it looks like the two might contact each other.

[Metalguy]

I believe it's camera angle. In person, it looks like plenty of room. It is unchanged from when it was operational, years ago. In retrospect, I sure wished I had known what they originally used as a transfer case. It would have made this a whole lot easier, but I'll get it, and it will be pretty sweet. I'd bet a Jeep transfer case was probably used before. I still have lots to do. I have to grease the u-joints on the front axle, and I am changing the ones in the front driveshaft, and entire driveline. Once I can drive it under it's own power, I'll change all the oils in the various components before pressing it into service. I'll probably just take it for a spin around my neighborhood to at least warm things up, then change the oils. But, I gotta get things in place, first! I'm waiting on the rear main seal, then I can assemble more stuff. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I am 99% sure that a Dana 20 t-case was what they used. The D18 had an offset rear output and the D300 didn't come up until later so it makes sense. The only other cases available around that time were the NP203, NP205, Timken, Rockwell, Borg Warner and Land Rover, but I really doubt any of those were even considered due to size and availability. Toyota cases of that era were not adaptable to anything but Toyota transmissions so those were out too.

[]2eDeYe]

I have only seen 521s & 620s with Dana 20s behind the L series transmissions. 
I have seen them done a couple ways, but always a 20. 

I have also seen full drivetrain swaps to get them 4x4, but that is a different thing. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

16 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

I have only seen 521s & 620s with Dana 20s behind the L series transmissions. 
I have seen them done a couple ways, but always a 20. 

I have also seen full drivetrain swaps to get them 4x4, but that is a different thing. 

A couple of different ways? How? All of them were divorced, right?

[]2eDeYe]

No, not all divorced.

I have a couple adapters from low mfg that are a weird hybrid with a custom spud shaft connecting the Datsun output to the Dana 20 drive gear. 
It has been a battle to get it to align correctly and I have gone through couple iterations trying to get it to work. 
It is now a divorced single u-joint, which isn't ideal but it is allowing me some time to drive it before I have to do the inevitable and move the t-case back for a complete intermediate driveshaft. 

I think this was iteration 3? with the original Low mfg version being iteration 1.... 
I had a t18 shaft cut annealed, cut down, splined and hardened and cut down a datsun yoke for a spud. Alignment was problematic.
 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Man, I hate to rely on a custom one-off shaft. The divorced setup could have many benefits, like clocking, and driveshaft lengths, longer front for more droop, less wear on the slip yokes.

[RyanC]

Just caught up on the build your moving along fabulously keep it coming.  Engine bay tidy looking good.  Running a weber 32/36?  Love the dash and kick panel linings.

[Metalguy]

I got a little more done today. I put sound deadener on the floor, and my carpet kit came in. Not putting the carpet in, until the trans and engine are in place with the transfer case. I removed the rear trans mount for modification. Also did a little detailing on the engine. I'm waiting on seals so I can put the flywheel and clutch in, then start installing and fabricating mounts for the transfer case. 

[RyanC]

Reminds me need to drop T cases off and see if they can be tidied up with new seals etc

[jbirds510]

Painted valve covers are really growing on me, Yours looks fantastic!

[Metalguy]

Thanks, jbirds!

 

[Metalguy]

Well, now it's time to mod the the rear trans mount on the truck. Looking at the pics from Charlie69, it looks like 1-3/4" needs to be removed to move it back far enough. I think I'll cut it, and mark the excess , then cut the second side after fitting it up in the truck. Finally getting closer!

[Metalguy]

Got the engine/trans in last night, and will look at the trans mount today. I already cut out a chunk from the middle so I can tack it into place, then remove, and weld.

[Metalguy]

I got the rear trans mount modded, and back in place, hooked up the wiring for the engine, and found that the clutch hard line is leaking at the master cylinder. I will just make a new line for it. I ordered a kit so I can put the double flares on the ends, and will give it a go. I have flared aircraft tubing before, and things like this take a little practice, so I'll practice a bit before making the line up. I also found a problem with my clutch slave/and clutch arm: My old transmission has a clutch arm that has a hole through it for adjusting rod to go through, and this new trans doesn't. Ugh. Wished I had seen that before install, I would have just swapped it out. As it is, I just shortened the rod, and am hoping it will work. Next big project will be mounting the transfer case. I have pre fabbed some mounts to weld in place, but I'll have to cut the ends to fit properly, once I have it in place properly. At least after that is mounted, I'll be able to move it under it's own power, just front wheel drive, lol.

 

[Metalguy]

I got the wrong bolts to mount the transfer case, so I'm working on finishing up the engine install. Took this water inlet off, and will replace. I love the amount of RTV on everything. The thermostat housing, and adapter had tons, too. I should at least have the engine completely ready by day's end, then tomorrow comes transfer case. 

[Metalguy]

More issues. The snout of the mini drive shaft doesn't want to go into the back of the transmission. It seems the right size, but it seems like something is keeping it from going in more than around 1/2" or so. Is there any spacer, or something that has to be removed before I use this? I put a new seal in too, so if I do need to get something outta there, I have to remove the new seal, too, so I better order a new one... 

[Metalguy]

Took out the seal. This thing appears to be what is keeping the snout from going in.... I could really use some advice here. Does that piece come out??? What am I missing here?