Datsun 521 4X4 Project

[Metalguy]

I'm learning this picture stuff... 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I'm no Datsun brake expert, but the wheel cylinder looks Datsuny. The drum... jury's out.

 

Anyone else?

 

Could you get a close up pic of the wheel cylinder?

[Metalguy]

Here is one. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Looks like a standard Datsun front brake cylinder. I know they come in 3/4", 7/8" and 13/16", but I'm not sure of the applications.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264910712036

 

A 7/8 cylinder will give you more stopping power, but it requires more throw at the pedal than a 13/16 cylinder.

Edited May 15 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[banzai510(hainz)]

Looks like a Datsun 521 fron wheel clyinder.

7/8 is =to 14/16s right. Not all that much size different 13/16

My 521 has off size wheel cylinder cause I didnt want to wait or not avail at the time fixing brakes

[Metalguy]

Thanks, guys. I have been figuring out how to make the pics smaller from my phone so I don't have to send them to Dropbox, and back here. I removed the instrument cluster, and cleaned it up. Awaiting bulbs now. Looked pretty nasty in the dash. 

[Metalguy]

Instrument cluster done, just waiting on bulbs. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

It's amazing how that trim will clean up with some chrome polish. Obviously it won't last forever, but a little scrub now and then will keep it looking nice. Even that turn signal stalk will probably buff out.

[Metalguy]

Yep. I start with some steel wool on the rusted chrome, and then move on to polish (Flitz in this case). The plastic piecespolish up nicely with a good cutting paint polish too. The tail lights look almost new with that. Eventually, I'll take the entire interior apart, and clean, and paint as needed, but I'm just trying to get it back on the road at present. It has to be inspected at the State patrol, so I am getting to the lights, horn, brakes, etc before most cosmetics, but it is nice to be able to see/read the instruments...

 

[Metalguy]

Well, I'm onto trying to get the wipers to work, and the linkage appears to be seized up. I decided to remove the wiper motor and assembly, but am unsure how the things come apart. I removed the wiper arms by depressing the little tab underneath, but not sure how to remove the spindles, or wiper motor. Motor appears to be corroded pretty bad, but I would like to disassemble and service /grease the linkage. Any tips on removing it all? It appears have no access??? I don't want to force anything either. I got to the three bolts holding the motor to the body of the truck, but can't see or access the linkage? Got to be something I'm not getting. 

[datzenmike]

The nuts on the mounting studs on the pivots are 8mm? they are on the 620 maybe these are 5/16"? anyway it takes almost no effort to snap them off.

[]2eDeYe]

Looks like Datsun brakes on a Dana 30. Easy enough to get disc brakes with dana 44 6 lug knuckles & brake stuff. 
There is a 1" master cylinder for z cars that works pretty well. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The wiper pivots can be a bitch to disassemble. My advice is to spray with penetrating oil and try working them back and forth. Eventually they will come free and with more movement and lube, they will be good as new.

 

@]2eDeYe - The early Jeep spindles are different from the later D44 "Chevy" style spindles so he would have to swap knuckles. The Jeep spindles are shorter and use smaller bearings, which means the Chevy spindles, hubs and bearings are much stronger, but will stick out of the wheel. He would also have to redo his tie rod because of the different size taper.

 

But, he wouldn't absolutely need the flat top D44 knuckles. He could use Chevy 8.5" 10 bolt outers. They are identical, except they don't have a passenger side flat top.

Edited May 19 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Forgot to mention, the outer axle shafts (stub shaft) would also need to be replaced with a Chevy D44 conversion. May as well do u-joints too.

 

Rabbit hole...

 

[Metalguy]

I really need to know how to remove the wiper motor, and shafts, if possible. The motor has a direct short to ground internally at present, and I need to get it out to see what is going on, and possibly fix, or replace it. when the blue wire with red stripe has power, it immediately blows the fuse. As far as the posts, I'm not sure how they come apart. I removed the wiper arms, and the large nut at the base of them, but do they drive through? I don't want to force anything, and they are in there very solid. As for the motor, the linkage is connected on the back side that you cannot see, or seemingly get a wrench on. Any ideas?

[Metalguy]

I got the motor/linkage sorted out. runs well now, but still not with the switch, just like the washer pump. My ignition switch also doesn't supply 12 volts constant to the ignition when on. I suspect the switch itself is bad, and may be causing issues with all of these things. 

[Metalguy]

I have been reading a ton of posts lately, and I'm thinking I may want to replace the clutch while there is no transfer case in the truck.....So, I need to identify the transmission, correct? Or are there not any different clutches for 5 speed trannys? (I bet there are tons) I will want to replace the clutch plate , disc, and T/O bearing, correct? Been a while since I replaced a clutch. Any good brands out there? I just started this particular rabbit hole. I already bought a new Clutch master, slave, and flex hose. To I.D. the tranny, where should I take picks? Any particular places for part numbers?

[datzenmike]

The transmission has absolutely no relation to the clutch type or size. There are two 4 speeds and at least four 5 speeds that could be mounted to an L series engine and use the same clutch. If you want to know what 5 speed you have wait till it's out so you can take some pictures.

 

The clutch size or diameter depends on the bolt pattern on the flywheel you have now. It is possible to change the flywheel to use a different clutch. You have an L20B, so the flywheel choice is more varied. It may have a car flywheel 200mm, truck flywheel 225mm and it's possible to be fitted with a 240mm from a later truck or Z car. When you take it off, measure the diameter of the clutch disc. This will tell you what clutch you can replace it with. Sometimes you can substitute a same size clutch from another vehicle that has a higher grip rating. For example if you have a 400Kg (880 pound) clamping force 200mm clutch, you can replace it with a 200mm 650Kg 1,450 pound clamping force clutch from a Roadster.

[Metalguy]

Oh. Ok. I guess that is why I ask questions. I will probably wait on the clutch until it has issues then. When I have to take it out, I'll have my answer as to what will need to go back in. Thanks!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

How long has the truck been sitting? If a long time, it's not unheard of for the disc to rust to the flywheel. Finding that out after you get the t-case back in would be a bummer.

 

I would at least get the clutch hydraulics working and see if the clutch releases when you push the pedal.

[Metalguy]

Been sitting since 1991. Certainly long enough! I'll do the slave/master cylinder for the clutch, and make sure before installing the T-case. Good call!

[Metalguy]

I have yet another question: Is there some common grounding poiunts for the electrical system other than the engine block? I'd like to find them, and clean them so I can make sure there is a good, complete path to ground. I am assuming that a lot of my gremlins have everything to do with corroded ground connections, and I'd rather start with factory grounds rather than just add new ones.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Not sure on the 521, but many vehicles have common grounding spots where the metal dash meets the body. Also,  headlight wiring is usually grounded with a ring terminal near the headlight. Tail lights too maybe.

 

Remember grounds need to make a circuit of the frame, body and wiring harness. I always put a ground wire from the battery to the body, from the battery to the frame, from the frame to the engine and from the engine to the body. I know it may feel like overkill, but it covers all bases.

 

I use a cheap hydraulic battery cable crimper and heavy duty copper lugs to make my cables. I can crimp a small gauge ground wire (for the body ground) in with the main battery cable so there are two ground wires coming off the battery.

 

https://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy-Duty-Copper-Lugs/p_1012.h_92199.r_IF1003

 

https://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Hydraulic-Battery-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B00KS4R3PI

[Metalguy]

Well, I'll search them out, and add some. I once had an old Rabbit convertible I got free because it had electrical issues that couldn't be resolved. I found a common ground that had maybe 10 grounds to it that was corroded from a windshield seal leaking on it. Once they were all cleaned, and dielectric grease applied, the car's problems esentially vanished. (Then there were just problems with wiring that was "modified")

[Metalguy]

Well. I got the t 100 transfer case home, and I have questions, as I know nothing about 4WD vehicles. I can only assume that the transmission connects to the single input that is at the top of the transfer case, and it has the two outputs on the bottom end, one to the front driveshaft, the other to the rear. For whatever reason, I had thought the input would be the same plane as the output to the rear driveshaft, but that would mean the front driveshaft would have to becoming from up top, and there is no way that will work. Am I correct? I sure hope so! LOL. Also, does the rear driveshaft need a joint in it? I know the original has a carrier bearing..... Just in very new territory to me.