Brand new battery, engine still struggling to start.

[Joecar]

So I was told my battery was bad so I replaced it. First time I start it in the morning it seems to work fine, when I get back in the truck after letting it sit for a few minutes it’s struggling to start like if the battery is dead but it catches sometimes. Could it be my battery cables, starter, or alternator?

[bottomwatcher]

Usually a bad ground. Got jumper cables? Attach negative cable from negative post on battery then to the engine block somewhere and see if that helps. Clean your terminals when you had the battery disconected?

[Joecar]

I should replace the terminals then cause the inside of them are clean but they are corroded on the outside. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

To clarify, when you say it catches sometimes, do you mean it starts sometimes or it cranks sometimes?

 

The starting system is to most basic system in the entire vehicle. It has a battery, battery cables, a solenoid and a starter. The ground cable needs to be grounded to the block and to the frame or body to make a complete circuit.

 

I would try cranking it by jumping the solenoid. It is possible for a worn out key switch to cause cranking issues.

 

If the problem is in fact heat related, it could be an old starter going bad. It could also be that the cables are just junk. Old cables go bad from heat and corrosion. They should be a minimum of 4ga, but 2ga is better. If the terminals are the screw on variety, with the two 10mm or 7/16 head bolts clamping the frayed cable to the terminal, those are horrible as there is virtually no protection against corrosion where the cable makes the connection.

[Joecar]

8 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

To clarify, when you say it catches sometimes, do you mean it starts sometimes or it cranks sometimes?

 

The starting system is to most basic system in the entire vehicle. It has a battery, battery cables, a solenoid and a starter. The ground cable needs to be grounded to the block and to the frame or body to make a complete circuit.

 

I would try cranking it by jumping the solenoid. It is possible for a worn out key switch to cause cranking issues.

 

If the problem is in fact heat related, it could be an old starter going bad. It could also be that the cables are just junk. Old cables go bad from heat and corrosion. They should be a minimum of 4ga, but 2ga is better. If the terminals are the screw on variety, with the two 10mm or 7/16 head bolts clamping the frayed cable to the terminal, those are horrible as there is virtually no protection against corrosion where the cable makes the connection.

Starts. It’s like barely turning over then it fires right up.

[Joecar]

I’ll send some pics of the cables once I get home

[ElliotV]

4 hours ago, Joecar said:

Starts. It’s like barely turning over then it fires right up.

Timing can cause a hard crank too but I would start by checking grounds and making sure your connections are good

[datzenmike]

1/  Electricity is invisible so looking at it doesn't help. Borrow a meter and test the battery posts (not the clamps) and you should see 12.65 if the battery is fully charged

 

No... could be the alternator. Go to 2/ first then 3/

Yes.. Test across the clamps, should be the same as the battery posts. If yes go to 2/

 

2/  Check the ground connection to the intake. Clean and tighten

Check the positive cable connection on the starter lug, clean and tighten.

Make sure the starter mounting bolts are tight.

 

3/ Start the engine. Test battery voltage, it should be just over 14v when running. In the low 13s the alternator is not charging properly.

 

 

Look at the negative cable. Factory cables also have a bare spot with a bolt through it to the body sheet metal. The body MUST be grounded. If the cable was replaced this may have been over looked. You can make a ground and connect from a convenient exhaust manifold bolt to somewhere on the firewall. 10 or 12 gauge wire is fine.

[Joecar]

Tried starting it this time and now its just stuttering 

[Thomas Perkins]

Those battery terminals need to go.Get these kind.They bend back when you remove them from the post.Also cut the old wire off the cable so It will be new going into the terminal.Walmart sells these terminals.All my battery cable ends are clean and at the connections.Get a piece of sand paper and sand where the ends connect to.Also make sure your black fusible link wire is good going to your alternator.The black wire connects to a white thick wire.Also you have tape on your fusible link wire I see.Remove it and replace with new wire.

Edited May 3 by Thomas Perkins

[Joecar]

Will do! Thanks hopefully this fixes my issue

[datzenmike]

40 minutes ago, Joecar said:

Tried starting it this time and now its just stuttering 

 

 

Where's the ground wire to the body? Did you find it?

[Joecar]

2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

Where's the ground wire to the body? Did you find it?

Negative with yellow stripe is grounded to exhaust manifold bolt and solid is on block

[Joecar]

This is what it’s doing, even with jump box on it. 

[Joecar]

Cut some of the wire back and discovered this. You think this whole wire is toast? 

[Thomas Perkins]

Might be okay.

[Joecar]

Cleaned the whole cables, cleaned up the terminals (for now until I buy new ones) and hooked a booster pack and still nothing so I’ll move on to the usable link. What gauge wire should I replace it with?

[datzenmike]

The fusible links have nothing to do with the starter. The positive cable is bolted directly to the starter.

[Joecar]

3 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The fusible links have nothing to do with the starter. The positive cable is bolted directly to the starter.

Should I replace the battery cables then

[bottomwatcher]

If you follow your ground cable you will see that empty hole next to your washer bottle. That should have a bolt to the body in it. It is also another spot where the cable likes to corrode. The clickity clack of the solenoid is another sympom of a bad ground. Try the jumper cable trick. It is free and gives you a solid answer. If you are real careful you can connect the red directly to the positive post on the starter and bypass your battery cables directly. Just have someone standby watching because if the cable vibrates off the starter lug and grounds it can start a fire. Don't do the positive alone. The negative wire test is fine alone as long as you route it away from the fan.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You can clean the cables by soaking the ends in metal etch or even basic vinegar. The pic you showed of that green cable, electricity is not going to flow through that.

 

I believe that is your problem right there and would not go further until you deal with the cables.

 

I prefer the marine battery lugs myself. They use a ring terminal on the ends which can be crimped or plunge soldered on.

 

[bottomwatcher]

2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You can clean the cables by soaking the ends in metal etch or even basic vinegar. The pic you showed of that green cable, electricity is not going to flow through that.

 

I believe that is your problem right there and would not go further until you deal with the cables.

 

I prefer the marine battery lugs myself. They use a ring terminal on the ends which can be crimped or plunge soldered on.

 

That's a crappy marine terminal! You can tell in the pic non stainless hardware and what the hell is the wingnut made of? That's 3 different metals together. Add a little salt spray and that unit is its own battery from galvanic reaction. Probably ok in a car if you coat it in oil. I do a lot of crimps on boats with that style ring terminal. I actually have a hydraulic crimper that if it is a quality terminal ends up as strong as the wire.

Joecar just cut the wire back a little if you can spare the length and strip it and see what it looks like.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You're right, but they are still better off with these than those bolt on clamp style terminals.

[Thomas Perkins]

All the Walmart's here have there Automotive stuff like battery terminals locked up behind clear plexi glass because of thief.But can't stop them from stealing at the self check outs.I just got in the lawsuit against them for selling there meat at the wrong weight.Also in a lawsuit against Verizon,and they also are getting sued again.Family dollar and Dollar General are getting  sued for showing there prices at one price and charging you more at checkout.Verizon is getting sued again for selling our info to a 3rd party.

Edited May 3 by Thomas Perkins

[datzenmike]

I tin the lug and the copper wire, assemble, then crimp, heat with torch and touch with solder.

 

The last battery I got had side terminals so went to wrecking yard and got side mount cables from Chevy Lumina. Positive to starter and the negative was too long, but had really nice lug on it so I ran it to the starter bolt.

 

Look how friggin thick the cable is compared to the stock one on the left !!!