Need help.

[datzenmike]

 

 

 

 

 

This is the original '78 EI distributor but the electronics is located in a box under the dash, hence the name remote igniter. This style can be fitted with the HEI module from an older GM product. If this is all there is it WILL work.

 

Just ignore the 1.6 ohm coil. Get the 0.75-1.0 ohm coil from any '78 and up Nissan.

 

 

 

 

The '79-'80 EI had the circuitry miniaturized into a much smaller box mounted on the side of the distributor, hence it's nam matchbox.

[banzai510(hainz)]

persoanlly he should be able to get it running with what he has right now. IT IDLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. just remove the bolt turn the dist and find the middle spot.

 use a vise grip/mini c clamp  to hold the timing plate if you have to turn the dist past the 10mm bolt hole. then give it gas if reves up then you got it.

 

But you said you have it pegged to one side of timing plate is a clue its goes out of time when reved up.  Distributor works

[Draven521]

9 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

yes one has to modify it but havent seen one actualy done

that cardone dist needs a mount and timing plate that matches it. a L16stuff does not line up. Datzenmike has posted that up before with photos

Can I buy a mount and plate?

[Draven521]

4 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

persoanlly he should be able to get it running with what he has right now. IT IDLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. just remove the bolt turn the dist and find the middle spot.

 use a vise grip/mini c clamp  to hold the timing plate if you have to turn the dist past the 10mm bolt hole. then give it gas if reves up then you got it.

 

But you said you have it pegged to one side of timing plate is a clue its goes out of time when reved up.  Distributor works

Copy that.

[Crashtd420]

1 hour ago, Draven521 said:

And it should work no problem? 

By design it should.... I was hoping slowloris could elaborate on what they bought and did..... 

Does sound like you might also need the remote ignitor and a plate too... 

 

I went a far more expensive route with my distributor and it had a unique clamp so I didn't have the plate issue...

[Crashtd420]

I was thinking this was simpler but maybe it isnt.... 

[Slow Loris]

Yes that is the distributor I bought.

 

So I did exactly as datzenmike is showing above with the non-matchbox with hei, and I snagged the plate and pedestal off a similar year 620 to match the distributor to get the right range of adjustment on the timing plate.  So my rotor also points at the “wrong” (not stock) plug 1 location at TDC, but as you’ve figured out that doesn’t actually matter and it adjusted into time just fine.

 

I also bought the coil for the same year 620.

 

 

[Slow Loris]

5 hours ago, Draven521 said:

Also I have 2 coils. One that says use with ballast and the other says nothing on it. I’m assuming I don’t have to use a ballast with that one?

 

The one for the EI set up I got from Napa says “for electronic ignition” on it, but maybe that’s just Napa.

[datzenmike]

EI use a 0.75-1.0 ohm coil.

 

A points system is limited in how much current the points can handle and manage to last more than about 50 miles. 3 ohms and 12v is about 4 amps. A points coil 1.5 ohm must be used with a 1.5 ohm ballast for a total of 3 ohms. Any less and too much current flows through the coil and it over heats and the arcing at the points is not easily prevented. You can run the 1.5 ohm coil and ballast with the EI but you won't get the higher output spark you would get from a 1 ohm coil. An EI system is more like 12-14 amps, 3 to almost 4 times the current.