ttyR2 Posted December 28, 2023 Report Share Posted December 28, 2023 (edited) I'm in a bit of a rush for an answer to a question I have. I'm buying an '84 720 4WD that's been parked for a long time. The owner has the clear title and will be signing it over to me, but can't find the keys. I may be able to drag it out from where it's parked with the winch I have, but is taking the steering column cover off and pulling the lock mechanism (without damage) fairly easy? I'm very mechanically inclined, but it's another town over so I want to go prepared. If so, what tools do I need to do it? Any wrenches? Or just a good Philips screw driver? I plan on picking the truck up tomorrow so if anyone could chime in, I'd appreciate it. Edited January 3 by ttyR2 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 28, 2023 Report Share Posted December 28, 2023 Easiest would be to just unbolt the steering column from the steering box under the hood just to get it on a trailer and home. The two part plastic clam shell around the column inside the cab requires a philips screwdriver. Take a hacksaw and slice into the heads of the 'tamper proof' bolts that hold the ignition switch to the column. Remove. Save the screws and put back together with them. This isn't a 720 ignition but pretty sure they are similar. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted December 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2023 Thanks for the info, Mike! If the wheels are straight, I may be able to pull this off without having to resort to any of that. I'm taking tools...we'll see. Hope to post some picks in a while when it's on the trailer. Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted December 28, 2023 Report Share Posted December 28, 2023 Thanks Mike. I am going to get me a new ignition switch.I now know how to remove them bolts. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted December 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2023 (edited) Successfully recovery. I bought one of the Harbor Freight ZXR12000 winches, wireless remote, and removable cradle. I'm using it with a standalone large commercial battery and boy it worked sweet. It's no Warn winch, but for the price you can't beat it. I had to drag the front and back of the Nissan out from where it was at, then rolled right onto the trailer. I backed the trailer in further and used it as a dead-man for a snatch block so the winch could pull the truck sideways. First up, a good cleaning and pressure wash. Then the head needs to come off and we'll find out how much of a mess there is. Edited December 28, 2023 by ttyR2 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 28, 2023 Report Share Posted December 28, 2023 Don't remove the cam sprocket until you know how to block the timing chain tensioner or it will fall out and jam the timing chain... The timing cover, water pump and oil pan bolts have to come off to correct this plus a few gaskets. If you are rebuilding with new chain and guides this doesn't matter. 2 hours ago, Thomas Perkins said: Thanks Mike. I am going to get me a new ignition switch.I now know how to remove them bolts. The bolts are that, bolts, but they are narrowed down below the head. On assembly they are over tightened and the hex head snaps off leaving nothing for thieves to remove the ignition/steering lock with. I think you can still get new ones but ? shrug, why bother. Quote Link to comment
Skellzor65 Posted December 28, 2023 Report Share Posted December 28, 2023 Good looking truck! Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted December 29, 2023 Report Share Posted December 29, 2023 5 hours ago, datzenmike said: Don't remove the cam sprocket until you know how to block the timing chain tensioner or it will fall out and jam the timing chain... The timing cover, water pump and oil pan bolts have to come off to correct this plus a few gaskets. If you are rebuilding with new chain and guides this doesn't matter. The bolts are that, bolts, but they are narrowed down below the head. On assembly they are over tightened and the hex head snaps off leaving nothing for thieves to remove the ignition/steering lock with. I think you can still get new ones but ? shrug, why bother. The bolts are no longer available at Nissan sites in USA.I Found some at Mega Zip.They are 4.50 each,but they want 64.00 to ship.Not going to happen.The bolts come with them on a after market switch.Mine might just need cleaning.I will check out some more over seas sites.If I find some,I will buy extra for anyone that may need them. .Part number is 49703'Y4000. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted December 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2023 The book I have has a pattern for the timing chain wedge block for the Z24's, so I'm good there. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 29, 2023 Report Share Posted December 29, 2023 1 hour ago, Thomas Perkins said: The bolts are no longer available at Nissan sites in USA.I Found some at Mega Zip.They are 4.50 each,but they want 64.00 to ship.Not going to happen.The bolts come with them on a after market switch.Mine might just need cleaning.I will check out some more over seas sites.If I find some,I will buy extra for anyone that may need them. .Part number is 49703'Y4000. Confirmed part number. Also used on '79 and up vehicles,210, 280zx, 810/Maxima, Stanza and the 720. The only other steering locks using bolts (different part 48703-E6602) to hold the ignition switch were the 73-76 610 the 74-'77 710 and the Nissan Patrol. How later steering columns were locked eludes me. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 29, 2023 Report Share Posted December 29, 2023 Lots of potential in that truck. Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted December 29, 2023 Report Share Posted December 29, 2023 Looks like a solid truck, no rust to speak of. Can’t wait to see it cleaned up. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 1 Author Report Share Posted January 1 (edited) I've read a LOT of differing opinions on what to use for a chain tensioner wedge. The Keep Your Datsun/Nissan Alive book shows a shorter wedge than what is used on the L-series engines. I found the diagram with dimensions marked www.californiaparts.net that's floating around the web, but it's marked for L20 engines. Will that not fit a Z24? Edited January 1 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 1 Report Share Posted January 1 Pretty sure it will as the Z24 is only taller by 2cm (3/4") at the very top of the block. The guide may be that much taller but the rest below is the same geometry. Drill a hole and attach a strong cord to it so you can pull it out when done. I've heard stuffing a thick folded garden hose all the way to the crankshaft sprocket will also work. The wooden wedges require that you pound it into place relying on the wedging to hold the chain tight. There are boughten ones that are plastic, long and narrow that bock it like the folded hose. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 1 Author Report Share Posted January 1 (edited) Ok. I'll make one of these and report back 🙂 Edited January 1 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 3 Author Report Share Posted January 3 Instead of starting yet another thread, I renamed this one and will be documenting this project. Do any of you guys have a picture of the OEM gas filler cap for these trucks? Mine is missing. I have a slew of original documentation coming from ebay. Looking forward to checking it out. Fel-pro head gasket kit is coming as well. Looking to pull the head this weekend and see what's what. Hoping for a simple blown headgasket, but I'll check for cracks in the block as well. Have any of you checked to see if the threads in the block are long enough to use good head studs that have a longer threaded part, say something from ARP? Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 3 Author Report Share Posted January 3 Any opinion on the AVM locking hubs? Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 7 Author Report Share Posted January 7 Wheeled the truck into the shop, set up some lighting, and got after it. I found the issue. I can't feel anything on the head where the gasket blew out, but will check further, and verify head straightness. Based on the 0.75 stamped on the pistons, I assume it has been "rebuilt" at some point. Likewise, three of the rocker-arm shaft bolts are stripped in the head. I'll look into getting Keenserts to repair that if I don't end up getting a rebuilt head. 1 Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 7 Author Report Share Posted January 7 So I made sure I had the timing mark set at 0deg TDC (both valves closed on cylinder #1), but neglected to make a mark on the upper timing chain sprocket and chain. I'm pretty sure I can put the sprocket back on the cam gently and make a different mark, one that lines up parallel to the top surface of the head, but is there another mark I should use instead? Or am I looking at having to pull the front cover off to verify I get things lined up properly. None of the books I have show how to check chain timing without the front cover off. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 8 Author Report Share Posted January 8 (edited) The timing chain has a removable link like on motorcycle chains. Odd. I've never seen one on a timing chain before. Likewise, the cam sprocket is slightly sloppy on the dowel pin in the #2 spot. #1 and #3 both feel fine. Makes me wonder if the sprocket bolt came loose at some point. I don't want the project to spiral, but I'm really thinking about putting a new timing chain kit in it (a good one like Cloyes), a new water pump because the fan clutch feels very rough, and to verify that the chain is actually lined up right. I dunno... If I install a new chain setup, do any of you have the part number for the "captured" cam tensioner setup that will keep the tensioner from falling out? The bracket with the slot in it and matching pin in the tensioner. Edited January 8 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 Have you rotated the cam with the head off the engine? If it hasn't been disturbed the cam sprocket will go back on on the #2 position and the cam dowel and the sprocket hole should both be at 12 o'clock and mate perfectly. If the cam was moved for work on it then set the cam sprocket into the chain so the dowel hole is at 12 o'clock (on #2) and rotate the cam till the dowel lines up with the hole and join them. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 8 Author Report Share Posted January 8 (edited) Found the tensioner with the retainer. Uh...$120 list. If I end up replacing the timing chain, I'll machine up a retainer myself...easy enough to do. Nissan pn# 13070-N7120 Edited January 8 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 8 Author Report Share Posted January 8 Unfortunately aluminum Helicoil's don't work very well. J/k. All three stripped bolts had aluminum threads left on them. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 8 Author Report Share Posted January 8 (edited) ...no reason to get 'torqued' up about it. Edited January 8 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
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