datzenmike Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 I noticed years ago when assembling a steel Allan bolt into an aluminum casting that what you torqued on wrist tight a few weeks ago needed both hands to break free now. And it would let go with a loud snap! Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 16 hours ago, ttyR2 said: Found the tensioner with the retainer. Uh...$120 list. If you’re replacing the timing chain, I don’t see a need for this, unless you’re expecting to pull the head again in the future. Which you probably will if you keep this truck very long. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 (edited) Parts have been ordered, decided to go all in (almost...I'm assuming the bottom end is ok). Will give the valves a quick lap job and make sure they look ok, new valve seals, new rocker shaft pedestal bolts and I think I'm going to repair all 10 holes. If three are stripped out, who knows how many others were over-stressed. New head bolts, new Cloyes timing chain set, new water pump/fan clutch, new plugs/wires/dist cap/rotor. Once it's back together and running reasonably well (the carb is an unknown quantity), a Weber 32/36 is in the plans. Most of the emissions gear has been butchered (EGR stuff has been cut off and crimped, multiple hoses capped or missing), so will clean all of that up. I'll have the local radiator shop clean and test the radiator as well. Edited January 9 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 The rocker pedestal bolts are not known for stripping. More likely someone had it apart and over torqued the bolts. It's aluminum and only need 11-18 ft. lbs. In addition they should all be tightened in stages and not all at once. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 I'll crack the rest of the pedestal bolts loose and retorque to 15lbs/ft. If they don't feel funny, I guess they will be ok. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 11 Author Report Share Posted January 11 In replacing the timing chain, I'll obviously be resealing the front cover. Do I have to completely remove the front differential to do the oil pan, or can I leave it attached to driveshafts and just lower it down a ways on a jack? Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 As far as replacing the timing chain, you don’t have to remove the oil pan, unless you tear up the gasket where the timing cover goes. Even then, I’m not sure I would drop the pan, unless the pan gasket is leaking. I would try cutting the timing cover section off of a new pan gasket and use a small amount of black rtv and reassemble it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 Loosen the front pan bolts and a few down both sides to relax the grip on the pan gasket to slide the timing cover off. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 11 Author Report Share Posted January 11 (edited) Worth a try. I'm wanting to use an ELC coolant instead of "classic" Prestone (or equivalent) green antifreeze. My '97 4Runner uses Toyota red ELC. Any reason why that shouldn't be fine in this Z24 engine? Shell has their Rotella ELC as well. I had zero cooling/water pump problems at 300k miles on the 4Runner when I had the water pump replaced along with the timing belt and other front-of-engine parts...hence why I trust ELC. With more reading, maybe the Shell Rotella ELC isn't a good idea....designed for large diesel equipment. The Toyota ELC is designed for automotive gas engines though. Edited January 11 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 Their website says ... Compatibility with Other Coolants Miscible and compatible with other extended life antifreeze coolant Whats the difference as far as antifreeze between diesel and gas? Nothing it prevents coolant from freezing and lasts a long time. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 12 Author Report Share Posted January 12 That "retained" timing chain tensioner is actually hard to find. NLA pretty much everywhere. Quote Link to comment
777AIA Posted January 18 Report Share Posted January 18 Gas cap... supposedly original. But, I believe they actually varied by region sold. https://gyazo.com/524a07f02d233cdbcd3925f9999fa678 Mine was originally delivered in Texas. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted January 21 Author Report Share Posted January 21 That's the type of cap I bought as a replacement. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 (edited) Temperatures are back up, so got some projecting done out in the shop. One nice addition to the tool set is a Makita cordless 3/8" ratchet. Makes for fast disassembly. Found all sorts of fun related to the cylinder head. Cracked locating groove at the front of the head. One of the cam bearings: Another cam bearing: The rest look ok. These were in the area of the three stripped bolts. What's the best way to locate the head gasket and cylinder on the block? Why yes! A cut-down socket! No joke. It was really in there. I finished pulling the front cover off, all the timing gear, and cleaned the gasket surfaces. I'm going to check locally and see if I can scrounge up a good used head. The front pulley and the oil slinger inside of the front cover were both bent. Whoever worked on this poor engine before was a real hack. Edited February 4 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5 Report Share Posted February 5 This is from not lifting the can straight upwards when removing. With the stripped bolts this is more than enough proof that an ignorant hack was at it. It only has to work. I think I cut one out of 1/2" copper water pipe once. 11053-20100 but you have to buy 10. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted February 5 Author Report Share Posted February 5 (edited) Any opinions good or bad about a reman head through cylinderheads.com? Curiously their website is actually https://cylinderhead.com/ Edited February 6 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5 Report Share Posted February 5 I checked and got this... Warning: Potential Security Risk Ahead Firefox detected a potential security threat and did not continue to cylinderhead.com.. If you visit this site, attackers could try to steal information like your passwords, emails, or credit card details. What can you do about it? The issue is most likely with the website, and there is nothing you can do to resolve it. You can notify the website’s administrator about the problem. Learn more… Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted February 5 Author Report Share Posted February 5 (edited) The . at the end of the URL is causing the problem. When I deleted that, it worked fine. Edited February 5 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 Still doing it today. Says not secure. The link posted still has the dot. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 There it is!!! price not bad also... Nissan 2.4 – 2389 L4 83-89 Z24 – 8 Spark Plug 10W CH85331 $350.00 Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted February 6 Author Report Share Posted February 6 Yep. I'm mostly concerned with whether they have a good or bad reputation. Googling engine vendors turns up widely varied options on some of the vendors. Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted February 11 Author Report Share Posted February 11 (edited) Engine is out! Pulled the pistons out and checked the bearings. Saw a few minor scratches but mostly just common wear. The one main cap I took off had a couple scratches but pretty much the same. The crank snout had some scratches...looks like someone might have been careless with a puller. One of the woodruff keys had been filed a bit as well. I have no idea why someone beat on the end of the crank: Really, the bottom-end looks pretty good. My plan is to do a little polishing on the crank journals but as little as possible, plus replace the bearings. Likewise, if the pistons look good, a light hone and new rings. Likewise, the clutch was getting close to the rivets, so it'll get a clutch job. Edited February 11 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 11 Report Share Posted February 11 The flywheel sits on this surface so no worries as long as the damage is not under that seal... which by the way you should replace while it's out and easy to get at. Definitely polish the rod and main journals. There are lots of You Tubes on how to do this. Just remember you can't polish it too much. The shinier the better. What style of rings are you thinking of using?? Quote Link to comment
ttyR2 Posted February 11 Author Report Share Posted February 11 (edited) Don't know. Suggestions? Piston's are stamped with 0.75 on top. I assume that's .75mm oversize. If so, equivalent is 0.030" oversize. Probably something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsn-2m4452s030 Edited February 11 by ttyR2 Quote Link to comment
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