A Certain Blue 510

[Dguy210]

10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Unbolt the idler arm and let the center link drop down?

That is the alternative, I felt transmission bolts might be easier. Will decide when I get back to it tonight.

[Dguy210]

On 12/27/2023 at 6:29 AM, datzenmike said:

Unbolt the idler arm and let the center link drop down?

Which is exactly what I did, took one look at it when I wasn't super tired and it seemed damn obvious.

 

 

Edited December 29, 2023 by Dguy210

[datzenmike]

[yenpit]

On 12/28/2023 at 7:13 PM, datzenmike said:

 

Hey, is that a self portrait selfie of you?? 😁

[Dguy210]

1 hour ago, yenpit said:

 

Hey, is that a self portrait selfie of you?? 😁

Mike looks closer to his Walter White gif....

[datzenmike]

 

[Dguy210]

Progress. My mildly insane task of building the engine wiring harness from the ground up AND having it be plug compatible with the stock dash harness continues. Wires are currently loose until I'm done at which point I will loom them all together and tuck most of them out of sight (still not sure if I want to do the through the fender route or not).

 

Pretty much everything needed to start and run the engine is done, headlights and electric fans in and I've provided a couple of taps for more power and internal dual fuse boxes (split between ign+ and always on, with fault lights) for later stuff. I've also increased the wire size when able as much as possible. Anything with any real current runs through relays at this point too so the dash switches/wires are really just pushing the relay coil current. Remaining circuits needing attention are the blinkers, windshield washer motor (which I will be adapting something non-stock), windshield washer fluid pump, horn, and choke coil, probably something else I'm forgetting. 

 

New Spectra CU1557 rad with extra mounts and a pusher and puller fan (2 fans total, ditched the manual fan blade due to room), also built a top cover piece to direct the airflow and to keep me from cutting up my arms on the fins. Still need to figure out what radiator hoses to use, I can go the generic bendable ones (which I used for the KA24E) or see if I can find prebent that will fit (I have some ideas). 

Edited March 10 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

Rad hoses in and LED headlights, also more wiring done. Still have to find some turn signals now, I sort of have one and the lenses already but it is pretty beat. I should have a windshield wiper motor somewhere in my stash but I haven't been able to figure out where it disappeared to. 

Edited April 7 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

Spent a bit more time today tidying up the wire looms and correcting a couple of oversights I made. Including the realization that no way in hell is the battery going to fit in that battery box with the way I have the radiator and hoses setup. Meaning I'm likely going to have to relocate the battery to the trunk. 

[yenpit]

On 4/6/2024 at 6:20 PM, Dguy210 said:

Rad hoses in and LED headlights, also more wiring done. Still have to find some turn signals now, I sort of have one and the lenses already but it is pretty beat. I should have a windshield wiper motor somewhere in my stash but I haven't been able to figure out where it disappeared to. 

 

I might have turnsignal lamps.............what front valence are you using?  Early 1968-1969 with SMALL lamps or later 1970-1973 with the LARGE lamps?

 

I have been installing Acura Integra wiper motors..............good clean USED ones, cuz I have the wiring schematic drawn out.  FYI the new aftermarket wiper motors do NOT have color coded wires & I have not attempted to figure them out.  If you are going to use the Acura motor, you will need the triangular mounting plate & articulating arm, which I will also have!

[Dguy210]

On 4/9/2024 at 10:55 AM, yenpit said:

 

I might have turnsignal lamps.............what front valence are you using?  Early 1968-1969 with SMALL lamps or later 1970-1973 with the LARGE lamps?

 

I have been installing Acura Integra wiper motors..............good clean USED ones, cuz I have the wiring schematic drawn out.  FYI the new aftermarket wiper motors do NOT have color coded wires & I have not attempted to figure them out.  If you are going to use the Acura motor, you will need the triangular mounting plate & articulating arm, which I will also have!

 

 

It's a 71 and stock valence from what I remember. Similar lights (well interchangeable) are also used on the 1200 and B210 (non-US version), [EDIT: these are not exactly the same shape but there are very close, the 510 one is a bit more angular]. There are pretty good repos out there (which I'm using currently on a different car) so I was likely just going to buy those, technically all I actually need is the back metal bit for the passenger side, but new ones don't require me messing with it much and are cheap.

 

What is driving me crazy is I have a windshield wiper motor all cleaned up and the arm clocked the right way around for this car somewhere.. I just can't remember where I put it. I checked the normal parts of my stash and haven't found it. I'm sure as soon as I buy one I'll find one. I don't really care about the motor color coding as I'm building that all out from scratch practically anyways so adapting it over is not really a big deal. 

Edited April 11 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

I decided on another option as I already have the lenses.... I'll have to figure out what type of LEDs I want to use. 

 

[Dguy210]

On 4/10/2024 at 11:02 PM, Dguy210 said:

I decided on another option as I already have the lenses.... I'll have to figure out what type of LEDs I want to use. 

 

 

 

Turned out I actually did have the other side so just went with refurbishing them instead. Rust wire brushed off dents and bent part tapped out and painted with reflective chrome paint.

 

 

Edited April 14 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

On 4/14/2024 at 12:07 AM, Dguy210 said:

 

 

Turned out I actually did have the other side so just went with refurbishing them instead. Rust wire brushed off dents and bent part tapped out and painted with reflective chrome paint.

 

 

 

Lights installed and the wiring harness cleaned up. Almost time to move onto the dash and heater core area. I'm working back to front. Also, realized I may not have a grille in the parts pile. I'll need to dig in and look around. Also, hard to see but the 3D printed TPU 95 firewall grommet fit perfectly. 

 

Edited April 27 by Dguy210

[Rustbuster78]

That thing is gonna be awesome when it's done!

 

[Dguy210]

Trying to decide if I want to post a new topic for this or not.

 

Problem: I need a fuel tank for this car.

 

Second problem: The fuel door has been welded and shaved so no longer exists making using a stock tank a wee bit difficult. I also don't have a stock tank anyways.

 

First consideration: I want to be able to actually use my trunk to put stuff in. So fitting into the stock location is preferable. I'm fine with opening the trunk to fill gas.

Second consideration: I'm not fond of cutting out the spare wheel well and putting a fuel cell there for various reasons. I'm not going to completely exclude that as an option I just consider it sub-optimal.

 

Third consideration: I want to keep this on the cheaper side, so no custom or repro $800-1000 tanks either. If I'm going to spend that kind of money I'll buy better tools and make it myself out of aluminum for about the same cost AND have the tools after. 

 

Potential solutions:

Optimal: Is there a 10-12 gallon tank or fuel cell (w/sender preferably) that will mostly fit in the stock location? Basically an aftermarket one I can just buy new? Or an used one that is in usable shape. 

 

Alternative: I use a stock tank and change up the fill method. Downside is finding a good stock tank is also difficult and not cheap.

 

Less optimal: I build one out of mild steel (baffles etc), pressure test for leaks, and then line it to prevent corrosion. Requires finding a premade pickup/return/vent and a decent amount of effort. Cost is low and mostly just my time aside from sender bits. Getting it not to leak and not look like absolute dogshit are the downsides. 

 

Edited May 4 by Dguy210

[Dguy210]

The good: Picked up a 68 grille at Powerland for a very good price. The bad: the side pieces were straight but extremely corroded.

 

Cleanup, rust neturalization, backfilling the numerous rust-through holes and a lick of paint. Not perfect by any means but significantly better than what I started with. I'll probably do a bit more touchup here and there but for now it is at least usable.

 

 

 

Edited August 4 by Dguy210

[Draker]

My favorite grille! Looks great!

[Draker]

On 5/4/2024 at 3:00 PM, Dguy210 said:

Trying to decide if I want to post a new topic for this or not.

 

Problem: I need a fuel tank for this car.

 

Second problem: The fuel door has been welded and shaved so no longer exists making using a stock tank a wee bit difficult. I also don't have a stock tank anyways.

 

First consideration: I want to be able to actually use my trunk to put stuff in. So fitting into the stock location is preferable. I'm fine with opening the trunk to fill gas.

Second consideration: I'm not fond of cutting out the spare wheel well and putting a fuel cell there for various reasons. I'm not going to completely exclude that as an option I just consider it sub-optimal.

 

Third consideration: I want to keep this on the cheaper side, so no custom or repro $800-1000 tanks either. If I'm going to spend that kind of money I'll buy better tools and make it myself out of aluminum for about the same cost AND have the tools after. 

 

Potential solutions:

Optimal: Is there a 10-12 gallon tank or fuel cell (w/sender preferably) that will mostly fit in the stock location? Basically an aftermarket one I can just buy new? Or an used one that is in usable shape. 

 

Alternative: I use a stock tank and change up the fill method. Downside is finding a good stock tank is also difficult and not cheap.

 

Less optimal: I build one out of mild steel (baffles etc), pressure test for leaks, and then line it to prevent corrosion. Requires finding a premade pickup/return/vent and a decent amount of effort. Cost is low and mostly just my time aside from sender bits. Getting it not to leak and not look like absolute dogshit are the downsides. 

 

Aaron sells those drop in aluminum fuel tanks. More capacity, same footprint. 

[Dguy210]

47 minutes ago, Draker said:

Aaron sells those drop in aluminum fuel tanks. More capacity, same footprint. 

Lol, I'm aware. Who do you think I bought the car from in the first place?

 

 

[Draker]

36 minutes ago, Dguy210 said:

Lol, I'm aware. Who do you think I bought the car from in the first place?

 

 

Well I thought it was odd.. but admittedly didn’t read everything. I just saw looking for tank, extra capacity. My fault,🤦. Carry on. I’ll find the door and see myself out. 😂 

[Dguy210]

On 8/4/2024 at 8:55 PM, Draker said:

Well I thought it was odd.. but admittedly didn’t read everything. I just saw looking for tank, extra capacity. My fault,🤦. Carry on. I’ll find the door and see myself out. 😂 

🤣

 

Acura upgraded motor with cleaned up backing plate. Now I have to track down the clip or find another "shaft retaining clip" that fits. I do feel like the shaft is a bit short so I spaced it out a bit better. 

 

Next steps are reassembling the dash and figuring out what order of operations is best to do that.

 

Edited August 15 by Dguy210