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Intro and Initial Guidance


NewDirection

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Hello everyone,

 

I wanted to inroduce myself and my newly acquired 1978 Datsun B210 4MT with 43k original kilometres on it, now residing in the Toronto area. https://ibb.co/qD0jxRj

 

i was initially on the hunt for a 280ZX but this popped I up and I think this is so much cooler due to rarity and the fantastic exterior and interior design.

 

Given the low mileage and decent condition I am leaning more toward resoration to new condition rather than restomod (for now). I don't have a huge budget but can spend a reasonable yearly amount on this as it is my hobby car.

 

I don't know much about these cars, and don't have a lot of time to work on it myself, though I do have some basic skills should they be needed. I only have basic garage tools, no lift, and no space to store a lot of extra parts.

 

I would like to ask for the group's guidance on what the first things are I should do. Here's my proposed list:

 

1. Find a Datsun mechanic (if you know any good ones in the GTA please let me know), in case any of the below go awry while I attempt them myself.

2. Change all fluids and filters including oil, air, diff, transmission. Coolant and brake fluid were done recently.

3. Overhaul the carburator (I have no idea what this means, do I give it to someone to do? Do I send it away in exchange for a refurbished one?) Please advise! I'd rather keep the look of the stock one with the big blue air filter cover rather than replace with one of those shny ones some people have.

4. Body work - it has some small areas of surface rust and one dent. I would like to get my body shop to deal with these and clean up a few other small things. the undercarriage appears to be rust free. Full frame-off restoration is not in the cards right now because 1) I don't have the funds and 2) I think the car is in too good shape to need it right now.

5. Undercarriage and engine bay detailing - how does one go about making the exposed undercarriage and engine bay parts (leaf springs, suspension parts, wheel wells, wiper motor etc.) look shiny and pretty. Do I pretty much remove each one by one and clean them or sand them down and paint them depending on material? Can a shop do this for me, if so would this be a body shop or a detailing shop or something else?

 

If there is anything else you think I should be tackling as part of my list over the next 1-2 years please let me know.

 

Thanks all!

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Welcome. I had a new '76 2dr. back in the day, around $4,200 I think. Onterrible winters are very hard on old Datsuns. This one was probably not driven in the winter. I'm guessing it's an automatic and so are reliable to a fault and boring enough that they don't get too much abuse compared to a manual. It's beautiful.

 

What does a mechanic charge for an hour of work these days? With old Datsuns it's simple mechanical maintenance work, basically wrench turning. You can do most of it yourself. First I would get the '78 Nissan published factory service manual (FSM) usually under $50 on e-Bay. Get one and the first time you use it, it's paid for. Another thing about mechanics is they don't know anything more about your B-210 than you do and most weren't born when it was new. What I'm saying is you will be paying them to learn how to fix your Datsun and then they get to keep that experience, why not learn that for yourself. At least know what is wrong when it does go in.

 

The carburetor can be rebuilt if you get a kit, expect to pay $50 at least. You need a clean work space covered with newspaper, some carburetor cleaner (used to just mix with water and soak overnight) now all spray cans, a few screwdrivers and spanners, lots of shop cloths, good lighting, a camera so you have pictures for when assembling, and 2-3 hours. The replacement carburetors are mostly pe-pops from China. The original is always better than after market. I've 'rebuilt' lots of carburetors and 99% is just cleaning dirt out and adjusting the settings. Why do you think your carburetor needs rebuilding?

 

Never throw away old parts. The new part fails you can always put the old one back on to help your diagnosis. There is always some part on the old part that can come in handy.

 

 

 

 

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Before installing fender mirrors on that car think it through. If you take the mirrors off of the doors, what about the holes left behind the? The positioning of the mirrors on the fender should be measured multiple times to make sure they are going where you want them to go. You can only drill that fender once. 

Here are a couple of different styles that I have found. Please do not put the door mirrors on the fenders.

 

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I'll see if I can dig up part #'s later today.

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5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

They should be proper fender mirrors that are spring loaded so minor hits and bumps are absorbed without damaging the fender metal. Better yet don't change anything.

FWIW those are spring loaded, they are OEM.

 

The bullet style part # 96301-N0400 and 96302-N0400

The flag style part # 96301-84700 and I believe they are the same left to right, It has been a very long time since those were installed.

 

I also agree with Mike's statement of "better yet don't change anything.

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Thanks everyone!

 

"Why do you think your carburetor needs rebuilding?"

Just based on age and underuse I'm thinking gaskets and seals could use a refresh, and it seems like it would be a fun little project.

 

"Better yet don't change anything"

I'm inclined to agree, since the car is so original. However, I've always modded my cars in one way or another and it's so hard to resist the itch.

 

"FWIW those are spring loaded, they are OEM. "

Thanks for the part numbers, that's very helpful. I think I will probably indulge in this one mod. I will ask a body shop to do the install and cover up the holes left behind. I wouldn't trust myself with this key of a job.

 

"Really liking that color scheme, welcome!"

thanks! It's a big part of why I picked up this car.

 

 

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Fair enough, I'll leave it alone for now then.

 

I would definitely like to do replace the carpet though, it's torn in places. It looks like I can buy the whole thing new aftermarket from any number of suppliers. I assume to get the new carpet in I would have to remove the seats, and the center console. Is this a reasonable DIY job? anything else I should do whlie I'm in there?

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Nice clean looking 210…You can try contacting someone from “Ontario Z Car Club” it’s a forum like this one based in Ontario for a mechanic. There use to be “WhiteHead Performance”, but they closed the doors last year. Rumour is one of those employees started up a shop. That info may be found digging around on the Z forum….Where abouts in Toronto are you from. Peel Region here. 

-Pidge

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On 10/27/2023 at 5:08 AM, pidge said:

Nice clean looking 210…You can try contacting someone from “Ontario Z Car Club” it’s a forum like this one based in Ontario for a mechanic. There use to be “WhiteHead Performance”, but they closed the doors last year. Rumour is one of those employees started up a shop. That info may be found digging around on the Z forum….Where abouts in Toronto are you from. Peel Region here. 

-Pidge

 

Mississauga, what what!

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i'm not on the fender mirror train ,, i'ts not that i don't like them ,, it's that car is pretty damn nice to have holes in doors.. 

 

In my opinion,,   Get some fatty tires on nice rims ,, lower nose just a tiny bit,,  and it will change the look much more drastically . B210s have same lug pattern as a a huge amount of cars so finding a badass looking set should just be a matter of how much you wanna spend. 

 

 

.

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This is still true...

 

On 10/24/2023 at 5:53 AM, datzenmike said:

They should be proper fender mirrors that are spring loaded so minor hits and bumps are absorbed without damaging the fender metal. Better yet don't change anything.

 

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image.jpeg.cfef4fbcb0d03dd33eae3abe93b7b7c3.jpeg

 

Remove strut and disassemble. 

Cut bottom spring perch off and grind down the old weld that's left.

Reassemble using 2" split collars to support the spring perch.

 

Try tightening the split collars about an inch and a half lower on the strut tube. Adjust as you prefer. Cost? Maybe $25 Need a hacksaw or angle grinder, spring compressor and a few wrenches. Lower center of gravity improves handling and braking. Any height adjustment will require the steering alignment be adjusted, so there's that.

 

Or $500 to $1,200 for a set of coil overs.

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On 11/1/2023 at 8:44 PM, NewDirection said:

I want to rock the original soccer hubcaps! But I bought some 175 70/R13 whitewalls for a little extra width and bubblyness.

 

How would I go about lowering the front a little?

 

On 11/1/2023 at 9:19 PM, datzenmike said:

image.jpeg.cfef4fbcb0d03dd33eae3abe93b7b7c3.jpeg

 

Remove strut and disassemble. 

Cut bottom spring perch off and grind down the old weld that's left.

Reassemble using 2" split collars to support the spring perch.

 

Try tightening the split collars about an inch and a half lower on the strut tube. Adjust as you prefer. Cost? Maybe $25 Need a hacksaw or angle grinder, spring compressor and a few wrenches. Lower center of gravity improves handling and braking. Any height adjustment will require the steering alignment be adjusted, so there's that.

 

Or $500 to $1,200 for a set of coil overs.

 

 

The B210 springs are very soft and quite long for the car to improve the general driving comfort. If you are going absolutely bottom dollar route taking off a coil or two on the spring (do 1 first and see how you like it) retains a comfortable ride while dropping it a bit. As Mike said this will need an adjustment on the wheel alignment too.

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There is a bit more to this method of lowering. As mentioned increasing the spring rate or stiffness is as simple as trimming the springs shorter but there is a formula to work out the spring rate you have on the stock spring, which will be close to 100 pounds per inch and then figuring out how much to cut to get what you want. I left this out as this is just preliminary talk right now but any time a vehicle is lowered the springs should be stiffened to reduce bottoming out. In addition stock springs are always a little 'soft' for comfort in the first place.

 

There is also an easy method to stiffen the dampers (shock absorbers) in the struts by replacing the fluid in them while they are out.  All for the cost of some hydraulic oil.

 

Lowering in the rear is as simple as adding drop blocks but the only way to stiffen a lea spring is to add another leaf.

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