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85 Nissan 720 4x4 Weber Gasket Replacement.


Thomas Perkins

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I am done.Looks so clean.I did put new aluminum washers on the front plug and the gas inlet valve and some black gasket silicone around them and the big nut that holds the little filter in.For some reason it leaked at the big plug last year.I did put a new plug in it back then but it still leaked.It didn't leak with the silicone.I looked back at my pictures on my computer and I replaced these gaskets back in 7-22-22.I used my camera to take these pics ,has no date stamped on them.

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I am done.Looks so clean.I did put new aluminum washers on the front plug and the gas inlet valve and some black gasket silicone around them and the big nut that holds the little filter in.For some reason it leaked at the big plug last year.I did put a new plug in it back then but it still leaked.It didn't leak with the silicone.I looked back at my pictures on my computer and I replaced these gaskets back in 7-22-22.I used my camera to take these pics ,has no date stamped on them.

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12 minutes ago, butter fingers said:

looking at your weber spacer and then the stock manifold makes me ask the question ; why wouldn't you port that manifold to match the spacer ? butter fingers 

You lost me their Butter finger.Are you talking about the stock piece that goes under the base.If so,I did take the stock one off and put a new Oem one in.If this is not what your talking about tell me.My Weber has always had this sit up  before the internet came out. I've has this Red line on for  over 7 years.

 

Edited by Thomas Perkins
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Here is my stock insulator.Nothing is wrong with it.I remember,it did have a rubber gasket under it and it was coming apart.So I just bought a new one thinking the rubber gasket came with it.But it didn't.Nissan don't sell them any more.I do have new gaskets for it.I just put one  on it.

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Edited by Thomas Perkins
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With out what Butterfinger?Look on you tube and see my video of my Weber.I made it over 11 years ago when I had the North American Weber on it that came with the black choke and it came with a Idle cut off solenoid.I was a member of 720 World back then.My Weber spacer has been the same.I got the redline Weber back in 2016 and sold the other Weber on 720 World.I got the first Weber before the internet came out.I first took my 720 to Nissan to get rebuild.They told me that the carb is junk and to get a Weber, they can't do nothing to fix it.So I got Someone to put a Weber on.They had the wiring wrong on the choke and idle cut off solenoid.They were using the blue wire on both.I posted pics of it on 720 World and Cory told me that the wiring was wrong.He told me to connect the red wire to the idle cut off solenoid and that fixed it.I still have that video with the wrong wiring,but I took it off you tube,so people would not wire it wrong.I can repost it if you like to see it.My other video shows the wiring in red and blue electrical tape.I also had the top tvv port valve hosed to the weber,like the stock carb.I drill a hole in the bottom of the filter plate and put a plastic Elbow in it.Cory suggested that.I can look back and see when I got the North American Weber.

Edited by Thomas Perkins
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6 hours ago, Thomas Perkins said:

I sprayed the throttle linkage and the fast idle linkage with WD'40 so it won't stick.

I’ve never had good success using WD40, as oil attracts dust/dirt, causing the throttle to stick. But with as clean as you keep your engine, I’m sure that’s not a problem for you.

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1 hour ago, NC85ST said:

I’ve never had good success using WD40, as oil attracts dust/dirt, causing the throttle to stick. But with as clean as you keep your engine, I’m sure that’s not a problem for you.Your right.I do have some other stuff that we use at work.Our company can't use WD'40 cause of the petroleum jelly oil in it that causes to attract dust/dirt.If it gets on the printing plates,rollers or anything else,it will cause major problems.I should of used it,but forgot I have it.Here is a can of it.Says it has Moly in it

 

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The insulator stops the transfer of external engine heat directly from the engine to the carburetor thus causing vapor lock. This is especially critical if the intake manifold is bolted to the exhaust manifold for the transfer of heat to the intake for proper operation by preheating the fuel prior to its entrance into the intake ports. If the exhaust manifold is not bolted to the intake manifold and heat is supplied to the intake for preheating through another source, such as water, the insulator is not as critical because there is not a direct link to the external engine heat.

Edited by Thomas Perkins
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Update on my Weber.I drove to work this morning.Everything was fine.Left work at 2 and went to Walmart for groceries,left and went to Walmart gas station.All of a sudden my engine died at idle.So I started and it died again at idle.I filled the tank up and started it and it wouldn't idle,so I check the wiring going to the idle cut off solenoid.It was connected.So I started and  drove toward my house.When I stopped at the light by my house.It idled good.I got home and pulled the wire off the idle cut off solenoid and the fitting had gas from the leaky Weber gasket and the metal fitting was trashed.Couldnt get a good connection.So I removed it and installed a new one.The choke fitting is looking like new.I put that fitting in last year when I put new gaskets in.

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Edited by Thomas Perkins
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On 10/7/2023 at 3:29 PM, butter fingers said:

yeah , i wonder how it would run without it ? Mike ? 

 

3 hours ago, butter fingers said:

awesome job Tommy ! my question was about the insulator . what is its purpose and how would the engine run without it ? ( Mike ? ) butter fingers 

 

I think it's for cold start up. Cold like down below 35F or more. The intake is going to be just as cold and that deflector helps direct the air around the bend in the intake below the carburetor and not be cooled by it. Tommy do you also have an electric heater in the primary just above it. It's a rectangle hole ceramic shape. This is from the later VG engine...

 

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It might be for trucks farther north. Before the coolant warms and the ATC (air temperature control) warms the incoming air. The last thing you want is the slightly warmed air being cooled by the cold manifold. It's only needed at very cold start up and would make running better and (mostly) it reduces emissions.

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