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Emiko, my new 520 work truck


hucklefish

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20 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The pilot bushing is the same for most Datsuns and Nissans. Yours is part # 32202-30000

Mike, he is talking about the starter. This # is for the transmission/crankshaft pilot bushing.

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13 hours ago, hucklefish said:

Maybe I'll peen it on both ends. I'm more worried by the whole starter coming loose last week. Could that happen because of the pilot bushing being knocked out and then the pinion gear becoming crooked enough from repeated starting with pilot bushing, which then maybe caused enough vibration to loosen the bolts in spite of lock washers?

Looks like the only option for a new starter is from Germany or England, running $200-250 with shipping, so I want to make sure I'm installing it right.

Since I found the starter/alternator rebuild shop in my area, I haven't purchased anything new. They rebuild all of my junk -

 

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  • 6 months later...

I'm having a similar problem with my Nikki Carb on my Datsun 520 pickup. My original fuel pump is working, and it appears I'm getting fuel into the bowl, but no start except with starter fluid or pouring a little gas in the carb. I took the needle valve assembly off and the little spring, plunger and needle all just fell out. Is it suppose to be loose like that and just rest on top of the float adjustment? I suppose I need to look at the float level since ya'll said that "the float gets stuck on it if it goes all the way to the bottom". That could be, I suppose, what's stopping gas from going any further into the carb. I don't have a clear cover, so I can't see the fuel level. My main concern is that the needle valve, spring and plunger only seem to be supported by the float, and there's nothing else to hold them into the needle valve assembly. Is that the way it's suppose to be? it makes for tedious work if you're trying to put it back in with the carb already installed!

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Yep, I just took the bowl cover off and there was gas in it. Yes, it's a manual choke. It'll crank with starter fluid, but won't continue to run.  Still looking again this evening...

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Ok, I got it running on fuel now, but the choke has to be completely pulled out (the butterfly valve is completely closed) and it sounds like it wants to run away, full speed, with no throttle depressed. 

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Well there is a fast idle function when the choke is on. Remember it's running over rich so adding a small amount of air will rev it up. Usually in the 1,800-2,200 rpm range. This is to speed the warm up time. Once running a couple of minutes you should be able to reduce the choke and lower the idle and, depending on the outside temperature, you should be warmed up just enough to idle properly in 4-5 minutes.

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