Rally Datsun blower motor

[HRH]

Okay, so I did search, but didn't find anything.

 

The 3 position blower switch works on all three, but even three is about the same as me blowing at the window. I'm guessing a bad ground and immediately thought of just running a toggle for all or nothing because really that's all you need, especially on a rally car to be.

 

Simple enough right? Yeah, just got under the dash and saw where they hid the blower motor and thermistor right below it. I could pull the heater core hoses to make it easier, but do I want to do that? Of course not.

 

Freaking annoying to get to. That said, anyone know where the ground(s) that are specifically related to the heater switch/blower motor etc. are found? I have a good ground on the back of the alternator, but was trying to trace more wiring, couldn't seem to find much.

 

I'll be out there cursing at it, if anyone has any ideas. Thanks!

[HRH]

Nevermind, I put on my big girl panties and dealt with it. Now I have a fan toggle next the the instrument light toggle. And better yet the fan motor blows hard, which will keep my windshield from fogging up. Yay!

 

Ended up doing some voodoo with a pair of long nose pliers and a healthy dose of midget hands. :D Wasn't all that bad, still can't figure out why they didn't put the fan on the outside where it was easier to get at.

[slodat]

If you want your heater to work well, pull it apart. Have the core boiled out. Unless your 510 was inside its entire life, the core is heavily fouled with leaves and shit. When you re-assemble, put in all new hoses (you don't want a cooling system leak in your rally car, right?) and use house window weatherstrip tape to seal it up well. The heater in my car is amazing, because it has been rebuilt. This doesn't cost a lot and I assure you that you will be amazed at the difference.

 

Also, a thermistor is a device that has a variable resistance proportional to a change in temperature. That thing you see by the blower motor is a voltage divider to give you the 3 speeds on the fan. The ground is in the dash harness, kinda by the steering column.

[HRH]

Actually, the heater itself was working fine, it was just the fan that wasn't blowing at full capacity. I know about the function of the NOT THERMISTER, but for practicality, on/off is a lot better. Plus, I'd have to wire a different NOT THERMISTER in if I wanted to replace the current unit, seeing as I can't just go to Nissan and order one. :D

 

On the hoses, I actually threw some 90 bend 5/8 heater hose in the car and some hose clamps, enough to replace the small heater hose sections inside the cab. I'll do that when I get the car in the garage after this Sunday's rallycross to start putting all the suspension, brakes, and bearings on.

Edited December 12, 2008 by HRH

[slodat]

You totally missed the point. It is not a thermistor!! It is a resistor.

[datzenmike]

Looks generally like this:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/electrical620heatertwospeedcoil.jpg[/img]"]

[slodat]

That is a resistor! 620?

[AtomChurch]

i agree with slodat. thats a resistor. learned how to make those in electronics level 1.

[HRH]

Sorry about the nomenclature.:D Yeah, heater blower motor resistor, I don't know why I kept saying thermister. Of course, now I might continually say it as a running joke. Hehe. (EDIT: Slodat, I laughed when I saw your post and edited my post above.)

 

Anyway, just took her for a drive, and everything is fine, BUT my common 20 amp fuse blew. I think it controls the dome light, heater and radio, but no dome light, heater switch now bypassed, which leaves the radio.

 

So it blew a few weeks back too, hadn't since then. Put another fuse in it after it blew when I parked at Schucks, incidentally to pick up my idler arm, which did come in.

 

So radio was on and everything was fine for about 5 miles. Then during one 360 at about 6500-6800 rpm, the radio went silent and sure enough the fuse blew again.

 

Thoughts? I should mention I just noticed tonight the headlights when on low beam have the high beam lights just barely on. The filament is glowing red, but not enough to make the regular light. When the high beams are on, both right side lights are lit up, and the high beam on the left side does not light up, and the other low beam left side gets dimmer.

 

This seemed to start happening when it got colder and moister. So, ideas for electrical gremlins to start chasing that? I've already started re-wiring the car, but don't have enough time to do all that stuff before the rally this weekend. Not that I need the radio, but I don't want other fuses blowing.

 

Was almost thinking maybe the voltage regulator was sending a spike?

Edited December 12, 2008 by HRH

[datzenmike]

That is a resistor! 620?

 

I think is for the 2 speed 620 heater. The coil offers some resistance and the motor runs slower. The coil is mounted inside the casing so the blower air cools it. If it isn't from a 620, it's very close. The 720 has 2 or 3 coils for 3 or 4 speeds.

[510er]

If you want your heater to work well, pull it apart. Have the core boiled out. Unless your 510 was inside its entire life, the core is heavily fouled with leaves and shit. When you re-assemble, put in all new hoses (you don't want a cooling system leak in your rally car, right?) and use house window weatherstrip tape to seal it up well. The heater in my car is amazing, because it has been rebuilt. This doesn't cost a lot and I assure you that you will be amazed at the difference.

 

Also, a thermistor is a device that has a variable resistance proportional to a change in temperature. That thing you see by the blower motor is a voltage divider to give you the 3 speeds on the fan. The ground is in the dash harness, kinda by the steering column.

 

SLO what hoses did you use when rebuilding yours? Im talking the small diameter little elbow ones? Any part numbers by chance? im at the point in y heater rebuild that i need them!!!... but then again the car is in about a billion pieces..

[HRH]

Hey Owen,

 

Sorry I didn't call you back last night. As for the heater hoses, I have the heater hose part numbers for the block to heater core on my website under Datsun Tech and the Focus radiator install.

 

As for the others, all you need is a 90 degree bend of 5/8s (9087 I think at NAPA) and a small straight section of 5/8s. I just bought a ton of those 90s the other day for doing the 720 heater lines.

[slodat]

I don't have the part numbers handy. I ordered the Nissan stuff. They were cheap and available. Contact okayfine on the realm, he has a CD-ROM that has the parts book and service manual for 510's. I think I paid $35 for it. Worth every penny.

[510er]

thanks! that helps a bunch

[hang_510]

510 heater rebuild: http://www.510coop.com/heater/

[datzenmike]

'Yuh know, I thought this thread was about super chargers when I first read it.

[510er]

510 heater rebuild: http://www.510coop.com/heater/

 

I saw that post but it doesnt list part numbers for the hoses... only thing its missing really:D

[Cuts metal like mad]

510 heater rebuild: http://www.510coop.com/heater/

 

Great link!