tad70 Posted January 24, 2023 Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 I replaced by tie rods, center link and sway bar links on my 73. As far as getting it aligned is it just pulling off the steering wheel setting that straight and turning the center link until the wheels are straight? Quote Link to comment
Moist Lightning Posted January 24, 2023 Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 when you install the center link you want the pitman and idler arm parallels with each other and the frame when the wheels are straight. you can use the string method on the back wheels to ensure the front wheels are straight - lookup alignment string method. From there you can dial in you toe in/out. If you have adjustable outers use those to adjust rather than the center link. Really you should have a shop to align it perfectly but i got mine good with the string method, although you have to be very accurate with measurements and check multiple times. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 26, 2023 Report Share Posted January 26, 2023 It's always a good idea to adjust the links to the same length as the ones you've removed. When installing right and left TREs on a tie rod, I always install the joints one turn, and then spin the center link to adjust the length. Doing this means that both TREs have the same amount of thread engagement. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 27, 2023 Report Share Posted January 27, 2023 22 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: t's always a good idea to adjust the links to the same length as the ones you've removed. This is what I did I got real close 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2023 Report Share Posted January 27, 2023 As you know there are R&L hand threads so turning the link one way draws the wheels inward (toe in) and out the other. I set up two parallel string lines on stakes driven into the ground. Must be stout and the string tight as guitar strings. Use any method you like but both strings must be parallel, wide enough to drive the truck between and at the height of the axle above ground that is flat. Drive the truck straight between the two parallel strings. Measure the distance between the string and the front of the rims on both sides and record. Now between the strings and the rear edge of the rims. Add the two fronts and then the two rears. If the front is narrower than the rear the alignment, is toed in, if wider it's toed out. If adjustment is needed turn the cross link. Be sure to bounce the front of the truck to settle the tires. When the two front measurements are 2-3mm (0.08"-0.11") narrower than the two rear measurements you are about in the middle of the '73 620 toe in alignments pecs of 1-5mm. It's tedious picky work and you should be able to back out and drive in between the strings again and repeat and get the same difference. Once done don't forget to tighten the lock nuts on the cross rod. This is at least as good as an alignment shop. Like I said the '73 is between 1mm and 5mm of toe in, so as long as in that range you're good. Quote Link to comment
tad70 Posted January 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2023 thank you very much for all the info. I will make sure to save it for future reference. I did measure the center link and made sure it was the same length as the old one. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2023 Report Share Posted January 27, 2023 Measuring the cross link and duplicating it on the new one will only get you close. A starting point or good enough to drive and have it checked. Check or take it in for an alignment. Quote Link to comment
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